bluehawk91

Hi Everyone,

I'm looking to do a brake job for 2002 Civic LX. I have been watching videos on YouTube and have looked at the DIY articles about brake job. I have some questions and concerns regarding this job. I haven't worked on a car much. I'm a beginner. I've just done oil change my self so far.

I'm feeling pulsations when brakes are being applied. This is from the front. Also, it's been very long since the brakes were done (6 years). Rotots Warped? I also feel car suspension is bad. Car ride not smooth and have noise in the pot holes, but I'd leave it for some other time.

Anyways, my questions are:

1) What brand of Rotors and Brake Pads would you recommend? I'm just looking for quality not performance.

I've selected Akebono Pads (ACT 465A) and Power Stop JBR522XPR Rotor from Rock Auto. Does anyone have any recommendation for local part supplier in Toronto?

2) What are the problems that I may encounter during the job? So I could try to learn beforehand. I find the bolts are sometimes pain to remove. I really don't prefer to use excessive force. I'm going to buy pb blaster and spray it night before to be able to remove easily.


I've attached the parts list files that I'd require for the brake job. I'm worried about the shims. I'm not sure if shims will be good? It wastes too much time trying to run for the parts. I have had to do it for the oil drain plug gasket. Additional Tool: Rubber Mallet.

Thank you very much!

CraigW

iTrader: (1)

Oem & oem

bsmiley

I bought wagner rotors BD61982 ($18.15 each) from Rock Auto in April. They work great...
I used a Raybestos pad SGD465A $14.46 (SG-D465A) and monroe brake shoes $11.95. A wagner drum hardware kit H17206 $6.64

OEM parts are ideal. But I often wonder about OEM parts from say Yugo...
I recently bought a temp sensor and thermostat from Majestic Honda. I trust OEM electronics and sensors especially. I trust RockAuto as much as AutoZone and Advanced...
Many parts are from the same suppliers. Many car batteries are made by a division of Johnson Controls. Interstate, DieHard, Kirkland, Optima... look it up if you don't believe me.

Also I take the advice of people with experience. I think that's part of why we're all on this forum. When you read posts you'll learn you should only use OEM O2 sensors from Denso or NTK. So when I need one I will get the info off the old sensor and order the correct part...

GolNat

iTrader: (7)

I used OEM pads with platinum rotors from pep boys. This combo has been pretty decent for me with a mix of spirited driving.

I would use 1/2" drive ratchet and sockets, makes removing the bolts a lot easier. PB Blaster is good also.

bluehawk91

OEM Parts are bit over budget and hard to find in Canada.

I'm considering Centric Rotor and Akebono Pad. Is the combination good in terms of noise reduction and longevity?

Thanks!

Edit: Part Numbers Added,

CENTRIC Part # 12040021 Premium Disc-Preferred
AKEBONO Part # ACT465A

lowlife9

i personally would use stopteck rotors and HAWK break pads.

danwat12345

Ebay is your friend for OEM Honda parts sometimes.

mikey1

i used ATE premium rotors and Wagner Thermo Quiet pads about two years ago, i am very happy with them still

rotors.....

http://www.ate-na.com/www/ate_us_en/...rotors_us.html

pads.....

http://aftermarket.federalmogul.com/...7#.U_netqO1lkg

bluehawk91

I'm going to Part Source soon. We have wagner Thermo Pads and ATE Rotors on Deal. $50 for Rotor and second for half price. Not sure about pricing for Wagnerl, but I'd like to keep budget under $200. OEM is tad expensive.

bluehawk91

Hi everyone!

I replaced brake pad and Rotors today. The Pads are Wagner Thermoquiet and Rotors are ATE Premiumone.

I have two questions:

1) For the caliper bottom bolts, If I tried to tighten it more, it'd circle, so I just tighten it to the last (thread?). This was true for both sides. Is this how it is supposed to be?

2) I'm hearing this kind of sound when I take the foot off the brake pedal.
Could you help me diagnose it?
Thanks very much!!

https://www.dropbox.com/s/nryjag1xic...%2010.m4a?dl=0

mikey1

the bolts should be torqued to specs using a torque wrench,

did you use one?

bluehawk91

No, I tightened it as hard as I could.

Edit: Can you also check the link I submitted in last post? This is the kind of noise I hear when I take the foot off brake pedal.

CraigW

iTrader: (1)

Do you get the same noise when working the hand brake repeatedly ??

bluehawk91

Noise disappears when parking brake is engaged and brake pedal is pressed/depressed.
Noise only comes when brake pedal is depressed in normal situation, not when pressed.

It seems to be coming from driver side though.

CraigW

iTrader: (1)

Just work the parking brake itself on/off on flat surface without brakes applied and listen for noise.

If it still occurs... it's an easy fix.

bluehawk91

How to fix??

CraigW

iTrader: (1)

Looked for thread to link... could not find.

There are some ] shaped protrusions that come off of the rear shoes, and touch against the backing plate behind brake shoes. You need to apply a tiny bit of grease/thick lubricant to this area on the backing plate.

Problem solved.

bluehawk91

I'd do it, but FYI, noise seems to be coming from the front.

CraigW

iTrader: (1)

Best test for this is..... Do you get the noise when releasing and resetting the hand brake ??

It only utilizes the rears.

bluehawk91

Yeah, I get that noise when releasing and resetting the hand brake. Closer examination revealed it is indeed from the rear driverside wheel. I can't believe I said front. Thanks for your patience. I did come across that article to fix rear squeaky brakes. I'll find it out.

Also, can you examine this noise as well. I feel struts are bad. The car does not compensate for small bumps. Car mileage is 180K Kms. I'm going to post a new topic for suggestion on major tune up as we never had. So far, we have had brake jobs done and alternator replaced. Struts are not replaced. Ball joints were replaced once I believe. The rubber covers look brand new.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/mlw3wbbuph...20121.mp3?dl=0

Thanks!

CraigW

iTrader: (1)

^^ Not a mechanic. Check for leaks from struts and do the fender bounce test (don't dent your metal !)