And rotor number 3 is on its way out, awesome.
02-08-2013
#1
Meh...
Thread Starter
And rotor number 3 is on its way out, awesome.
I own a 03 honda civic ex coupe, and i have gone through 3 right side rotors in the last 6 months, people do comment when in my car that i do brake hard which honestly I understand but it seems to be a little more than just hard braking when its been the same side over and over and over again, so im just looking for ideas on how to actually fix the problem as apposed to just braking easier, I'm thinking maybe the caliper is shot or sticking or both but regardless drilled and slotted are a little pricey to be doing this so often so id appreciate any help available, please and thank you.
02-09-2013
#2
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: And rotor number 3 is on its way out, awesome.
Would it make any sense to ask what each of the failures was, specifically?
"In what manner did each fail?"
Naaaaah, that ain't imoptant at all
"In what manner did each fail?"
Naaaaah, that ain't imoptant at all
02-09-2013
#5
Whachya lookin at?
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Re: And rotor number 3 is on its way out, awesome.
I have noise coming from my front right and one of my pads wears down much faster than the others. Obviously I'm having caliper troules as I've replaced everything else including the slider pins. Is there any noise under braking that seems out of the ordinary? Uneven pad wear?
02-09-2013
#7
Meh...
Thread Starter
Re: And rotor number 3 is on its way out, awesome.
not to sound like a normal person but why would i not want what looks the best on my car, and to continue to waste money on blanks when i could just fix the problem and then im completely happy and you dont need to express arbitrary side opinions, but regardless it feels like the brake grabs in series almost, and then once the rotors and the pads are gone completely it sounds like the damn lunar lander, usually just the outside pad is ground to bare metal and the inside pad is slightly wore and the rotor is tore to ****, i would say warped rotors but seeming how there have been 3 replacement pads and rotors for the right side id say its a little more advanced than just a warp,
02-09-2013
#8
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: And rotor number 3 is on its way out, awesome.
but regardless it feels like the brake grabs in series almost,
and then once the rotors and the pads are gone completely it sounds like the damn lunar lander,
usually just the outside pad is ground to bare metal and the inside pad is slightly wore and the rotor is tore to ****,
So...how much of the inner pad is worn down when the outer pad is metal to metal?
Could the inner pad be binding in the caliper bracket?
Both pads in each caliper need to be free to move.
If one is stuck, that will cause the opposite pad to wear at about double speed. I see it a lot here because of rust.
Another possibility is......the opposite brake (other side of the car) isn't working at all.
i would say warped rotors
02-09-2013
#9
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Rep Power: 338 Re: And rotor number 3 is on its way out, awesome.
remove caliper, do a thoughout inspection, rebuild. check for clogged lines. rust. etc, etc.
should been done in 2nd set to third set. They are there to stop the car when you need...
should been done in 2nd set to third set. They are there to stop the car when you need...
02-09-2013
#10
Re: And rotor number 3 is on its way out, awesome.
not to sound like a normal person but why would i not want what looks the best on my car, and to continue to waste money on blanks when i could just fix the problem and then im completely happy and you dont need to express arbitrary side opinions, but regardless it feels like the brake grabs in series almost, and then once the rotors and the pads are gone completely it sounds like the damn lunar lander, usually just the outside pad is ground to bare metal and the inside pad is slightly wore and the rotor is tore to ****, i would say warped rotors but seeming how there have been 3 replacement pads and rotors for the right side id say its a little more advanced than just a warp,
Any underlying problems will just only enhance these characteristics even more. And replacing the pads before they're completely chewed up will prevent the rotors from being damaged.
Modern day brake pads have wear indicators that start squealing when the pad reaches a certain point, requiring them to be replaced, before they are ground to bare metal.
I would check to make sure the left brake is getting pressure and operating correctly. A proper full brake system bleed would help too.
Just because something looks cool, doesn't mean it works well.
So no, telling you to get blanks is not arbitrary at all.
02-09-2013
#11
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: And rotor number 3 is on its way out, awesome.
Not to sound like a jerk, but you DO need to realize that any slotted or drilled rotors give you negligible performance, AND wears the pads even faster.
Any underlying problems will just only enhance these characteristics even more. And replacing the pads before they're completely chewed up will prevent the rotors from being damaged.
Modern day brake pads have wear indicators that start squealing when the pad reaches a certain point, requiring them to be replaced, before they are ground to bare metal.
I would check to make sure the left brake is getting pressure and operating correctly. A proper full brake system bleed would help too.
Just because something looks cool, doesn't mean it works well.
So no, telling you to get blanks is not arbitrary at all.
Any underlying problems will just only enhance these characteristics even more. And replacing the pads before they're completely chewed up will prevent the rotors from being damaged.
Modern day brake pads have wear indicators that start squealing when the pad reaches a certain point, requiring them to be replaced, before they are ground to bare metal.
I would check to make sure the left brake is getting pressure and operating correctly. A proper full brake system bleed would help too.
Just because something looks cool, doesn't mean it works well.
So no, telling you to get blanks is not arbitrary at all.
Applying Things You Think You Know, To Things You Definitely Don't, Is Annoying! Shut Up And Listen
02-09-2013
#12
Meh...
Thread Starter
Re: And rotor number 3 is on its way out, awesome.
thank you for trying to solve the problem, as opposed to giving me a alternative, didnt realize the egos were so high around here, simply stating that i like the look of drilled and slotted, thousands of people rock them without the problem im having, so why would i just switch to blanks instead of solving the problem, im really into finding out stuff on my own, and hate asking for help, the fact that im even posting is rare, i just wanna fix my car, and by in series i mean, at low speeds when everything is new it seems perfect, i get a slight shake when applying the brakes from 40 to 60 mph, the shakes intensify the more the rotor and pads are worn, and eventually it just sounds like dragging instead of smooth braking to a stop, the shake is why i thought warped, but i even said after i thought they were warped that couldnt be it, so thank you for taking little excerpts of editing there mr. fox news,
Thanks again,
The president
Thanks again,
The president
02-09-2013
#13
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: And rotor number 3 is on its way out, awesome.
i get a slight shake when applying the brakes from 40 to 60 mph, the shakes intensify the more the rotor and pads are worn,
Have you checked that the face of the hub is clean and free of rust before installing the rotor?
You know how......if you were building a skyscraper...... being off by 1/8 inch at the bottom of the building would make it lean by several feet at the top?
Same applies to brakes.
0.002" runout (or rust? Rust is a huge problem here where I live) on the face of the hub can cause 0.010" runout at the outer edge of the rotor once it is installed. That's more than enough to feel in the steering wheel.
Similar thing for "disc thickness variation".
But I don't think that is causing excessive pad wear. Shake, but not wear.
02-09-2013
#14
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Rep Power: 328 Re: And rotor number 3 is on its way out, awesome.
you are prob wondering why kenny said slotted/drilled and negligible in performance for our cars.
the original intent of drilled rotors (the holes) was the allow excess gas to be sucked into the vains of the rotors (inside of the rotor) to prevent gas build up between the rotor surface and pad. HOWEVER, pad technology has gone a very long way and the technology for it has exponentially improved. gas is no longer a problem.
drilled rotors also serve as a cooling purpose. it draws air into the veins of the rotor and pushes it out (like many computer fans). however, to do this efficiently, you need directional veined rotors. there is NO aftermarket stock sized rotor that makes directional vein rotors. our 10" rotors are too small for manufactures to give a crap because no one really "races" our rotors to even be considered. most "track/race" civics will have a big brake kit on there.
directional vented vain vs straight vained (what we have) rotors:
now, slotted rotors. those are the little slits you see on rotors. their purpose is to act as a razor blade and clean the surface of the pad with every swipe to allow a clean pad contact with the rotor. HOWEVER, this will EAT UP YOUR PADS very very quickly (compared to say a blank rotor)
application to our cars:
why do we advise NOT to get them for our cars? a few reasons.
1. when you drill/slot the rotors, you significantly lose surface area of your rotor. that means less surface area for your pad to come in contact with your rotor. this means less friction, less braking power, and a loss in braking performance.
so why do all the higher end cars have them? because they run 15" rotors and we run 10." they can throw some drills/slots in there and not sacrifice surface area.
2. properly drilled/slotted/veined rotors are meant to take and cool high heat...ie racing applications. if you drive on the streets and do occasional spirited driving, you will rarely push your rotors to its limits. and if you ARE serious about racing/autox, then your stock rotor is extremely insufficient and you need to think of investing in a big brake kit.
3. drilling/slotting the rotors weakens the structure. period. there is no argument in it. its basic physics. when you look at the cars that have proper drilled/slots, you will notice that the thickness of their rotor is MUCH thicker than ours.
google it, you'll find plenty of failed rotors that were drilled.
and this isn't exclusive to our little rotors. There have been guys with the IS-F that have cracked their oem rotors on the track. google and you shall see.
now, for street applications for your civic, if you want to go with slotted/drilled rotors, then thats fine. chances are you will not push those rotors to their limits and if you got a decent brand, you'll be ok.
and if you want them simply for looks, no one here is to tell you otherwise because its your car, your taste. hope you have learned something and hope i have cleared some confusion concerning drilled slots.
the original intent of drilled rotors (the holes) was the allow excess gas to be sucked into the vains of the rotors (inside of the rotor) to prevent gas build up between the rotor surface and pad. HOWEVER, pad technology has gone a very long way and the technology for it has exponentially improved. gas is no longer a problem.
drilled rotors also serve as a cooling purpose. it draws air into the veins of the rotor and pushes it out (like many computer fans). however, to do this efficiently, you need directional veined rotors. there is NO aftermarket stock sized rotor that makes directional vein rotors. our 10" rotors are too small for manufactures to give a crap because no one really "races" our rotors to even be considered. most "track/race" civics will have a big brake kit on there.
directional vented vain vs straight vained (what we have) rotors:
now, slotted rotors. those are the little slits you see on rotors. their purpose is to act as a razor blade and clean the surface of the pad with every swipe to allow a clean pad contact with the rotor. HOWEVER, this will EAT UP YOUR PADS very very quickly (compared to say a blank rotor)
application to our cars:
why do we advise NOT to get them for our cars? a few reasons.
1. when you drill/slot the rotors, you significantly lose surface area of your rotor. that means less surface area for your pad to come in contact with your rotor. this means less friction, less braking power, and a loss in braking performance.
so why do all the higher end cars have them? because they run 15" rotors and we run 10." they can throw some drills/slots in there and not sacrifice surface area.
2. properly drilled/slotted/veined rotors are meant to take and cool high heat...ie racing applications. if you drive on the streets and do occasional spirited driving, you will rarely push your rotors to its limits. and if you ARE serious about racing/autox, then your stock rotor is extremely insufficient and you need to think of investing in a big brake kit.
3. drilling/slotting the rotors weakens the structure. period. there is no argument in it. its basic physics. when you look at the cars that have proper drilled/slots, you will notice that the thickness of their rotor is MUCH thicker than ours.
google it, you'll find plenty of failed rotors that were drilled.
and this isn't exclusive to our little rotors. There have been guys with the IS-F that have cracked their oem rotors on the track. google and you shall see.
now, for street applications for your civic, if you want to go with slotted/drilled rotors, then thats fine. chances are you will not push those rotors to their limits and if you got a decent brand, you'll be ok.
and if you want them simply for looks, no one here is to tell you otherwise because its your car, your taste. hope you have learned something and hope i have cleared some confusion concerning drilled slots.
02-09-2013
#15
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: And rotor number 3 is on its way out, awesome.
HOWEVER, pad technology has gone a very long way and the technology for it has exponentially improved.
The $12 compressed walnut shell brake pads from DangerZone don't qualify.
02-09-2013
#16
Meh...
Thread Starter
Re: And rotor number 3 is on its way out, awesome.
The first set were blanks the second was powers top then switched back to the blanks and still have the problem I will try inspecting the hub surface soon so thank you for that info I also have read the write up on drilled and slotted before and new the risks but I honestly believe the shake is caused from something more steering related but who knows time will tel regardless but thanks for the info for now anything else will be Appreciated
02-09-2013
#17
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: And rotor number 3 is on its way out, awesome.
After a good drive, check the temps of each front rotor. If there is significant difference, the hot one will have a brake dragging....or the cold one has no brake applying.
02-10-2013
#21
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Rep Power: 338 Re: And rotor number 3 is on its way out, awesome.
me still think you need at the least to lube slider pins (yes, it's easy...)
02-10-2013
#22
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Thread Starter
Re: And rotor number 3 is on its way out, awesome.
there is a crease in the rubber gasket around the caliper but it still extends and compresses, dont know if it may be linked., also have some rear discs off of an 03 dc5, will they fit my em2?
Last edited by Hensinger2010; 02-10-2013 at 01:04 PM.
02-10-2013
#23
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Rep Power: 328 Re: And rotor number 3 is on its way out, awesome.
Yes if you have the whole assembly. Simply having the disc won't work. Not to mention you'll be running 5lug in the rear vs 4 in the front
02-10-2013
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Rep Power: 328 Re: And rotor number 3 is on its way out, awesome.
I use HP+ pads all around (I have rear disc) and they are over kill for street. So in theory, if I took some surface area off the front, I'd still be good. But the hp+ feel good.
02-11-2013
#28
Meh...
Thread Starter
Re: And rotor number 3 is on its way out, awesome.
oem blanks, and pads along with a new caliper and hose are waiting at autozone in the morning, if this doesnt solve it idk what will, and i guess my rears discs are from just a rsx base so they are the 4 lugs just wasnt sure on them fitting, thanks for the help regardless guys
02-11-2013
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Rep Power: 328 Re: And rotor number 3 is on its way out, awesome.
oem blanks, and pads along with a new caliper and hose are waiting at autozone in the morning, if this doesnt solve it idk what will, and i guess my rears discs are from just a rsx base so they are the 4 lugs just wasnt sure on them fitting, thanks for the help regardless guys
02-11-2013
#30
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
