saves

First Post! I had a mechanic that said my front driver wheel bearing was going out based on some grinding going away when turning left. So I bought a new Timken bearing on rockauto and hub, pulled the knuckle, and brought the mechanic to have the new bearing pressed in ($60, is that reasonable?).

At first I thought the noise was better but at higher speeds (>40 mph), the grinding seems worse. And it still goes away when turning to the left. So I jacked the front of my car up rolled the front wheels and they both sound similar but the passenger side has more play in it.

Is my new wheel bearing bad? Do I buy two new bearings OEM or Timken? Or do I just replace passenger front side? Should I buy a cheap press to do this? It doesn't seem that hard.

sdaidoji

iTrader: (1)

recommend finding out what really is the issue before going further.
having a Harbor freight press is not a bad deal, two bearings and you will have paid it. Though you will need adapters to do the job right.
recommend reinforcing the frame of the press, though, they are flimsy

ezone

Was the brand name bearing actually real, or could it have been counterfeit? That's a HUGE problem in the industry, and most people don't have any way of knowing.
Was it installed correctly?
Was it assembled correctly?


If one doesn't tighten that big nut correctly, guess how quick a bearing can be destroyed....




Could the noise have been choppy tire tread? And still is?

saves

sdiadoji:

I don't have my own garage or I'd probably have already bought the press. I'll have to check and see if I can keep it at the garage I work out of. Whats the best way to diagnose the issue? dealer?

ezone:

I didn't look at the bearing itself before it was pressed in. Its the first time I've purchased something off rock auto so I didn't think about checking markings. I don't know if there's anyway to check other than get it pressed out now.

I was there watching as it got pressed at the shop. The tech claimed 30 years experience and it seemed like it. I tightened the axle nut myself with a torque wrench.

I just got new tires on the front and the noise didn't change with the tire change.

ezone

Raise car, wheels off the ground. Run engine, in gear, someone inside it holding it at whatever speed the noise was loudest. Go underneath with a stethoscope and determine which bearing is loud.
Sometimes it's far more obvious and much easier to figure out than that.

saves

So bought some OEM bearings and a press adapter kit. I found out a buddy had a 20 ton press. Replaced my passenger front wheel bearing first as it was the one I hadn't replaced and the one with play in the wheel. The sound went completely away. In fact, the car actually noticeably coasts farther. It was the first time pressing one in and while I pressed the hub, I didnt support the bearing and I pushed it apart by about a centimeter. I pressed it back together again. I'm not sure how sealed bearings work so not sure how much of an issue this will be but it's working smoothly today.

Thanks for the advice guys. This was a fun project. Now I have to replace the headlights, that should be a bit easier.