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Solid brembos with Hawk HPS pads = weaker braking power? My experiences...

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Old 04-20-2006
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Solid brembos with Hawk HPS pads = weaker braking power? My experiences...

I've got an 03 Coupe with a bit over 60k on it. I've had the front brakes replaced 4-5 times already because they always seemed to get a shimmy under braking that I don't want to deal with.

I've used OEM parts many times and most recently switched to the highly recommended Brembo solid discs with HPS pads. My number 1 goal was making the brakes stay smooth for longer (avoiding the shimmy under braking).

Once installed (at the dealer, by an experienced mechanic) I went out to the country and did the bedding in process exactly as advised by Brembo. No complete, hard stops or holding stops were done before the bedding procedure.

After a week or so of normal driving on the brakes, I decided to test how they stop when you really stomp em'. Sadly, they feel noticeably less powerful than stock rotors and OEM Honda ceramic pads. The OEM brakes (I thought) had fantastic braking power, while these new ones just feel like there isn't enough friction between the pad and disc. I stomp the pedal hard, but don't get equal to stock 'feel'. I know the proper way to test would have been by measuring distance, and I only have the 'butt dyno' results as some may call it, but I am confident that my feelings are accurate and these brakes are not as strong.

One thing I used to notice, was during a hard braking session (stomping on them) from around 60, my head would sling forward and the feeling of blood rushing to the face was normal. I don't get that on the aftermarket setup. It's smooth, and the pedal feels good, but it does not have the same aggressive bite when you lay into them.

Maybe these brakes need more heat in them to bite well.... could be true, but that does not help me much during normal driving conditions when I need to make an emergency stop as quickly as possible.

So far I'm not sure what I think of them. I think that they still stop hard enough to be safe, and are fine for most conditions. I am dissapointed that they don't seem to meet the same normal performance feel of stock brakes (I expected the same or STRONGER) but if they last me 40k instead of 12-15 (before shaking) I will probably still buy them again.

I posted because I am curious if others have had the same experiences and also to tell people about my experience. I see a lot of people looking to ditch OEM braking components for the same reasons that I did, so I figured any more info on the subject should be helpful to them.
Old 04-20-2006
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have you changed your brake lines to stainless steel and refill your brake fluid... maybe get your calipers checked and make sure they are spaced properly
Old 04-20-2006
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the hps pads need to warm up before true braking power is shown...also just because you change pads and rotors it doesnt mean you will get better gripping like that...oem ones feel like that because they're on the verge of locking up which is actually a bad thing...the hps compounds are useful for continual hard braking and wont fade or glaze over the rotors so you get good braking every time
Old 04-20-2006
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Bleed the brakes out if they haven't been done, get some clean fluid in the calipers. The higher temp pads seem to take a little while to break in fully and show what they really can do. So if they were done very reciently, wait a little while longer. HPS pads are still pretty streetable, I wouldn't expect steering wheel eating power.
Old 04-20-2006
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Originally Posted by LowSky
have you changed your brake lines to stainless steel and refill your brake fluid... maybe get your calipers checked and make sure they are spaced properly
Stock brake lines, stock fluid. I assume that the mechanic checks the brake fluid, and spaces the pads properly. (I hope). He's been a Honda mechanic for a number of years, and is a personal friend of mine (more reason to take his time and make sure it's right). I guess he could have made a mistake though.

On the stock brake parts or aftermarket, the tires have never locked or squeeled on dry pavement/straight line braking. I guess the ABS would activate before that would happen, but the tires (BFG T/TA) have gripped well enough to maintain traction for all that the brakes can give. I never imagined it as being close to locking up the tires in a straight line. The only experience I remember with ABS or tire locking has been in snow.

Thanks for the comments.
Old 04-20-2006
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I put in HP-S's a month or two ago and now I can really feel them. Just putting my toe on the break you feel this really grippy scrapping, feels awsome, good breaking regulation too.
Old 04-20-2006
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I have an 01 with 40k and brakes are still smooth and never changed anything.

I put solid brembos and semi metallic pads on my old 94 Si, and it made a hell of a difference. For the money it was the best braking upgrade out there IMO
Old 04-20-2006
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It seems like its either hit or miss with the OEM brakes. Some of you guys have 30, 40 or 50K on them before they need to be changed, and others last half that. Mine are done after 20K. They're grinding badly now so I just ordered Brembro blanks and AEM pads.
Old 04-20-2006
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i am sticking with oem pads and brembo blank for my next brake job. the oem setup is really good if you dont beat on it (no riding brakes, seldom braking above 40mph). And they came through a few times when i really needed em. Very good stopping power. And i dont know much about brakes, but why would you pair an oem style rotor with performance pads? its just gonna ruin the rotor faster.
Old 04-20-2006
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^ Actually you are better off with the OEM style Brembro's for our cars. With the drilled rotors you're just losing rotor mass (less ability to transfer heat) = better chance of warping and or cracking. Drilled rotors are pointless.
Old 04-21-2006
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i recently installed brembo blanks and axxis ultimate kevlar/ceramic pads (equivalent to your Hawk pads) about 3 weeks ago. initially i felt the same way as you did, that the car didnt stop as well with teh new set up. however, i took my car to road race a week after i installed my new pads/rotors. i guess the heavy braking really broke in the pads and from there on, the brakes are a LOT more responsive. so yes... just break into the pads longer and you'll be fine.
Old 04-21-2006
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even the stock stuff requires 300 miles of light breakin. is there a special breakin procedure? cause the manual says just brake softly for first 300 miles
Old 04-21-2006
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I have Power Slot rotors w/ Hawk HP+ pads. I absolutely love the way they brake. They work really good. It's the only reason i've put up with the squeak and horrible brake dust. but i'm gonna swith pads cuz the dust is eating away at my hand refinished/painted rims.
Old 04-21-2006
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Lol, ive only change my front pads twice since i got my car, and it was cause my front calipers were freezing on me so i had angled pads. Not good. But i take my car out to the track pretty dang often, and even now the pads still look new. I dont know what kind of stopping your doing, but what ever floats your boat. Give you a hint if you want to stop faster.. DOWN SHIFT!

Anyways, those new pads take a min to heat up, so you should be alright later on. till then just take it slow.
Old 04-22-2006
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I just purchased brembo drilled and slotted rotors to replace my stock rotors cuz they got warped. Was going to use the brake pads that i have now, which are honda pads, but want to upgrade thos as well. Any suggestions?
Old 04-22-2006
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I had the exact setup as you did on my 03 Ex Coupe: brembo blanks with Hawk HPS pads. I can't remember my impressions of the brakes immediately after having it replaced. But the brembo/hawk setup definitely felt more firm, precise, and aggressive. I don't have any performance measurements, but I felt it was a great setup and great improvement over stock. In fact, I enjoyed braking my car.

The manual calls for brake fluid to be changed every three years, regardless of mileage. Otherwise, give it some time ot break in.

I downgraded to Hawk OEM style ceramic pads for less dust, but I'll be switching back to HPS.
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