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what robclark1 said

they should look like this

Front of carRear of car

 
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r yea mine had a D AND P on the rotors themselves so i know mine r right..

 
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U WILL NOT FEEL A DIFFERENCE

ok here's a lil science.

ur using the all caliber right?....well lets just say caliber area is X. on the stock rotor the caliber is covering X amount area on the rotor.

ok now the AEM rotors....stock caliber is still covering the same X amount area on it.

and to break better....u need an Y area or some amount thats bigger then an X area for more traction.

dont konw if u get that or not.

 
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if you wont feel a difference then why do they claim 33 percent better stopping distance as compared to stock?

 
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Who cares about stopping faster. They look bad ***!!!!! That's all that matters. (I'm all show.....can you tell?)

 
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there is MORE suface area on the rotor .... its a bigger rotor not in width, in lenth-
as in the size of the circle.
Less Heat is created THUS GIVING BETTER grip from rotor to pad.


AND dont forget we all know that HEAT creates glazed rotors and warped ones

 
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This is all I have to say....


Bigger rotors will make your friends think you are cool, bigger rotors look sexy, but bigger rotors do not stop the car. What a bigger rotor will do is lower the overall operating temperature of the brakes – which is a GREAT idea IF your temperatures are causing problems with other parts of the braking system. Take for example a F500 racecar – a small 800 pound single seat formula car. While the brakes are certainly much smaller than those found on a 3,000 pound GT1 Camaro, that does not necessarily mean that they need to be made larger. In fact, swapping on a GT1 brake package would probably do more harm than good – that’s a lot of steel hanging on the wheel that needs to accelerate each time the ‘go’ pedal is pushed. So, the motto of this story is bigger is better until your temperatures are under control. After that point, you are doing more harm than good…unless you really like the look (and hey – some of us do!).

Game over, good night.

 
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Amen!!

 
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who cares how much the rotors are....ur using the SAME caliber...which is covering the same X area on big rotors small rotors or gigantic rotors.....

O and about glazed and warped rotors occur NOT becuz of HEAT....ITS BECUZ OF UNEVENLY TIGHTEN LUG NUTZ

duh!!!!!!!!

 
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I could be wrong but i think it is spelled caliper. And wow you are stupid, first of all, larger rotor means larger circle circumference and area on the rotor, meaning what is spinning is actually larger in area, meaning the angular acceleration is greater than stock. That fact alone can add some difference to the way the brakes function. Also heat can be dispersed better. Stopping can be improved because the slots carry away brake dust so there is less material on the rotor itself to lessen the friction, creating greater overall friction. Big brakes are better, nuff said, and take physics before you claim you know it.

 
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your completely uneducated and its sad.

goto howstuffworks.com ... read it for about a week ... then come back to this post.

 
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Really?

Brakes in plane english

Those Poor Rotors

and if you have ABS, you may be totally screwing your braking distance with Big brake kits.


Just because you believe something that the markiting department of some brake company tells you, doesent make it true.

 
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Borrowed from another article,

Potential Impacts of Big Front Brakes


Fortunately (from a safety standpoint anyway), when most big-brake suppliers adapt a mondo rotor and caliper package to a vehicle, they end up actually increasing the FRONT bias. How? By increasing the effective caliper piston area and the rotor effective radius, these two factors work together to increase the 'mechanical gain' of the front brakes, building more torque for the same pressure, everything else being equal. So, from a bias perspective we are not pushing the vehicle toward instability, but rather just the opposite - we are underbraking the rear axle! The obvious impact would be an increase in stopping distance - probably the one thing the new owner was actually hoping to reduce. Ironic. So, say you chose to install these big brakes on the front axle but want to maintain the OEM bias. What's the answer? Well, one way would be to invest in big rear brakes too which increase the rear mechanical gain to the point that the system is balanced once again.


So, What's The Harm In Doing That?


Well, let's look at why we upgraded the front brakes in the first place. Contrary to popular belief, the real reason sports- and racing cars use big brakes is to deal with heat. Period. There has been a bunch of stuff published which will disclaim this, but when you look at the braking system from a design standpoint, making them 'bigger' doesn't fundamentally do anything for stopping distance. It's all about the heat. So, you upgraded the front brakes because of thermal concerns but as a hidden surprise got a shift in brake bias. As a band-aid to this condition, you now spend thousands more on a rear brake upgrade because the front system was not sized correctly in the first place.


and just to stoke the fire a bit more....

 
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btw a rear brake conversion is about 400..

so all ur 'pasting' in that write upl is that ur off balancing the brakes. thanks for all your help on that informative post! ::

 
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But even if you get a big brake kit wether you have stock rotors or a big brake kit since your using stock calipers your brake surface will be the same I think that's what Civic_Racer9 is saying. As far as heat dissipation goes big brake kits have the advantage.

 
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thats nice . but your wrong.

 
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back to rotor position real quick...my wilwoods point towards the front of the car like the arrows instruacted too, not like the picture provided..hmm weird, different rotors point different ways

 
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Keep believing what ever you want to belive, but if you want to know the truth
Go here and ask the Real race car drivers about Big brake kits, and they will all tell you the same thing, the ONLY reason you shoud get bigger rotors is if you are over heating the current system

 
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'


exactly. which was happening every other month . i was going threw pads every 2 months... i warped 2 sets of oem rotors.

ive had my big brake kit for alil over a year now and i havent changed my pads since ive put them on.

My car stops alteast 50% more then a stock civic. I challange ne one in my area to put this to the test.

Im not arguing with you ne more cause im not basing my opinion on what other people say Its based on REAL experience. Not some guru writing papers about stuff he reads about, causes thats where all ur info comes from.

get some real life input then we can argue.

 
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i duno but mine point forward also
and i just followed the directions too.

so whatever-

 
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Real life examples eh? ok, so Now I've been doing autocross (Ya know that sport where you push your car to its absolute limits in Acceleration, braking and cornering?) so its obvious that I have no experiance in brakes.

Heres an example for you, a friend of mine that autocrosses with me has a CRX with a B16 in it, and he decided to put on the WIllwood big brake kit on the thing. His words "That was one of the worst things I could have ever done to the thing." Why? because with the bigger rotors He was never getting the brake pads up to opporating temps, so the pads them selves were not working as well as they should = longer braking distances. And the added Rotational mass was Killing his corner exit acceleration. So he went back to the stock sized rotors and caliper, Upgraded the brake pad and came away with a better performing car.

So for the last time, the only reason you would ever want to go with a larger rotor is if you are over heating the current brake system. If you want better brakeing, 1 get stickyer tires, 2 upgrade your brake pads and shoes to a more performance tuned compound (Porterfield R4-s, EBC Green or Redstuff, Hawk ect....)

 
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Ya know Zzyzx, he doesn't really deserve all this usefull information you're giving him...

I for one, need new brake pads... I'm going to try EBC Green Stuff I think... and see how well those work, as well as a set of brembo blanks, cause right now, my brakes are screwed... Cause I do a lot of downhill racing... which genterates large amounts of heat. I have 23,000 Miles of agressive driving on the oem setup, my rotors were resurfaced at 10K miles after my trip from seattle to La and Back Via Highway 1. As of right now, they have ridges worn into them, and vibrate WAY more then they should when they get hot. However, I do not beleive that a big brake setup is the way to go, cause I'm all about PERFORMANCE, now should you choose, to ignore physics, as well as YEARS worth of advice and research, that is your own accord.

I'm not sure what kind of driving you people are doing, but with the stock calipers and pads, It takes some pretty agressive braking before the stock brakes start to suffer dramatically. Learn to corner better, and you will have to use your brakes less. Unless your tires are talking to you, you should lay off the brakes a bit.

 
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^^ dont for get to upgrade your brake fluid. a good DOT4 or even beter a DOT5.1 would give you that much more resistance to brake fade.

 
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Yeah, I've been researching which products to get, i'm still out in the open, Next time I see you on AIM i'll drop you a line, I was thinking ebc greenstuff, + brembo blanks, and then some new fluid of some kind, though I'm still out as to which fluid to get.

On another note, you also reccomend hawk pads... I was also thinking of maybe ebc redstuff... there are just so many options out there that look appealing to me...

 
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I'm running Porterfield R4-S, Great pad. High heat resistance and a greatly improved coeficent of friction. only thing that you need to remember about them is that the first few times you use the brakes you'll need to put a little extra pressure in, untill they warm up a bit. I know Hawk makes good stuff as well as EBC, Basically any Carbon Kevlar pad would do for street/ occational track use. (Porterfield makes both a pad and shoe in the R4-S compound for our cars, EBC doesnt, and I dont know if hawk does either)
If you go EBC Red, you'll need to do the same as what I do with the porterfiedls, and warm them up each morning (2 or 3 good stops does the trick, just dont get your self in trouble).

I'm also using Brembo Blanks.

For Fluids, I plan on going with ATE super blue (ATE Type 200 is the same thing only amber in color rather then blue) its got a high dry boiling point as well as a decent wet boiling point and I know it absorbs water slower then alot of other High performance brake fluids do (Motul 600, Great Dry and wet boilng points, but has a High water absorbtion rate) Its also cheeper then alot of other Top end Fluids. (Runs about 10.50 per Liter) If you've got $$ to burn run Castrol SRF....Excelent dry and wet boiling points but it costs about $69.00 Per liter.

of course all this has to wait untill funds beome more readily avalible....

 
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In summation:

Bigger rotors will increase the surface area of the rotor and therefore dissipate heat better, reducing brake fade due to overheating the rotors. They will in fact not increase the stopping power of the car, just the longevity of the period of time that u can break before u overheat ur brakes. The caliper on a stock rotor covers the same area as the stock caliper on the bigger rotor, so that is not where u will see increased stopping power. The only increase in braking power is through higher performance pads, which are usually included in a big brake kit and that is why people think that the bigger rotors help.

Zzyzx is correct in everything he has said. He knows alot about our suspensions and brakes in general, as he has proven countless times. Listen to him and Robbclark, another suspension guru.

 
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So I ordered some EBC redstuff, today, as well as some sumitomo htr 200's for my 14'S, i'll probably get some of those kosei 15x7's in the future for autoxing, also I think i've decided on the neuspeed rear sway bar, and I'm still waiting on those KW v3's to come out.... I will also see about getting some brembo blanks, sometime soon, as well as better brake fluid, Imma see if the honda dealership will resurface my rotors again under factory warrenty like they did last time.