2011 LX-S with 30,000 miles--maintenance needed?
11-10-2018
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2011 LX-S with 30,000 miles--maintenance needed?
Hi all,
I have a 2011 Civic LX-S with approximately 30,100 miles on it (I only put about 4,000 miles a year on it). I went into my dealership's website to schedule an oil change and saw that the Maintenence Minder A or B packages were recommended (both packages include spark plugs but I thought that those were supposed to last 100,000 miles...is it 7 years OR 100,000 miles or just 100,000 miles?). I plan to keep the car for at least another 4 years and want it to remain reliable throughout that time. I'm not opposed to spending a bit of money to keep it running smoothly (I've not cut corners at all since purchasing the car--whatever the dealership recommends, I have done) but I don't want to spend hundreds of dollars on a maintenance package that I don't need. What preventative maintenance, if any, should I have done this coming year? I'd rather get it done and over with at my next oil change next month. Also, my HondaCare extended warranty expires in February--anything I should ask the dealership to look for or anything I can do to get the most out of the plan during the next 3 months?
Thank you!!!
I have a 2011 Civic LX-S with approximately 30,100 miles on it (I only put about 4,000 miles a year on it). I went into my dealership's website to schedule an oil change and saw that the Maintenence Minder A or B packages were recommended (both packages include spark plugs but I thought that those were supposed to last 100,000 miles...is it 7 years OR 100,000 miles or just 100,000 miles?). I plan to keep the car for at least another 4 years and want it to remain reliable throughout that time. I'm not opposed to spending a bit of money to keep it running smoothly (I've not cut corners at all since purchasing the car--whatever the dealership recommends, I have done) but I don't want to spend hundreds of dollars on a maintenance package that I don't need. What preventative maintenance, if any, should I have done this coming year? I'd rather get it done and over with at my next oil change next month. Also, my HondaCare extended warranty expires in February--anything I should ask the dealership to look for or anything I can do to get the most out of the plan during the next 3 months?
Thank you!!!
11-11-2018
#2
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: 2011 LX-S with 30,000 miles--maintenance needed?
Read all about Maintenance Minder in YOUR OWN owners manual.
If you read it right, you should see you are due for:
Oil change, (a or b---but read what it says the differences are, and decide if you wish to do it their way----most of us change the filter every time and in the dealer we are SUPPOSED to do a visual inspection during every service))
Tire rotation---- if tires are still have enough tread to make it worthwhile.
If #2 is showing on the MM, (#2 comes up somewhere after 24k), it's calling for engine and cabin air filters, Pull each out and check if they are really needed.
Brake fluid service is recommended every 3 years too.
We recommend ATF service every 30k, because the MM lets it go far too long.
Don't be a lay down. They will run over you if you allow it.
Spark plugs are 100k. No time limit.
If you read it right, you should see you are due for:
Oil change, (a or b---but read what it says the differences are, and decide if you wish to do it their way----most of us change the filter every time and in the dealer we are SUPPOSED to do a visual inspection during every service))
Tire rotation---- if tires are still have enough tread to make it worthwhile.
If #2 is showing on the MM, (#2 comes up somewhere after 24k), it's calling for engine and cabin air filters, Pull each out and check if they are really needed.
Brake fluid service is recommended every 3 years too.
We recommend ATF service every 30k, because the MM lets it go far too long.
whatever the dealership recommends, I have done
Spark plugs are 100k. No time limit.
11-11-2018
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Read all about Maintenance Minder in YOUR OWN owners manual.
If you read it right, you should see you are due for:
Oil change, (a or b---but read what it says the differences are, and decide if you wish to do it their way----most of us change the filter every time and in the dealer we are SUPPOSED to do a visual inspection during every service))
Tire rotation---- if tires are still have enough tread to make it worthwhile.
If #2 is showing on the MM, (#2 comes up somewhere after 24k), it's calling for engine and cabin air filters, Pull each out and check if they are really needed.
Brake fluid service is recommended every 3 years too.
We recommend ATF service every 30k, because the MM lets it go far too long.
Don't be a lay down. They will run over you if you allow it.
Spark plugs are 100k. No time limit.
If you read it right, you should see you are due for:
Oil change, (a or b---but read what it says the differences are, and decide if you wish to do it their way----most of us change the filter every time and in the dealer we are SUPPOSED to do a visual inspection during every service))
Tire rotation---- if tires are still have enough tread to make it worthwhile.
If #2 is showing on the MM, (#2 comes up somewhere after 24k), it's calling for engine and cabin air filters, Pull each out and check if they are really needed.
Brake fluid service is recommended every 3 years too.
We recommend ATF service every 30k, because the MM lets it go far too long.
Don't be a lay down. They will run over you if you allow it.
Spark plugs are 100k. No time limit.
Would you recommend having the coolant flushed and replaced?
One more question: I'm lucky to get 20mpg but I admittedly have a bit of a lead foot and 50% of my driving is done in the (small, not very congested) city. Also, with the amount I drive, it the financial impact is pretty darn low). That said, is there anything I should have done or looked at to improve my MPG? I have a HondaCare policy that expires in February, so if there's something mechanical that could be causing this, I'd much prefer to have it done while within my warranty.
Thanks a million!!
11-11-2018
#4
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: 2011 LX-S with 30,000 miles--maintenance needed?
Overzealous is replacing filters that were not dirty.
FYI a dirty air filter cannot reduce fuel economy.
Or another 25k miles. What does your owners manual say? It may also be printed on the emissions label in the engine compartment or on the hood.
As long as no incorrect coolant has ever been added, it's fine until it's scheduled service is due.
Avoid Ethanol fuel, (not possible in many areas)
and use Top Tier gas.
Low octane.
Change your driving habits.
Use LRR tires if you can accept the trade offs (if any).
Keep the tires aired up. My own preference is quite a bit higher than spec but there are trade offs.
You can't do much about traffic congestion, and sitting still waiting for stoplights and traffic absolutely kills fuel economy.
If you want to see what it can do, go to the gas station on the edge of town and fill the tank, immediately jump on the highway and go rock steady 55 mph until that tank is empty. Do not slow or stop, because it takes a lot of fuel to accelerate.
Refill at the end and calculate mpg.
My best gas mileage seems to come in around steady 50-55 mph.
Real interstate speeds (keeping up with traffic) kills my gas mileage numbers unless I can tailgate close enough to draft nascar style.
(rant) Many people post in forums crying about bad gas mileage, but have zero understanding of how to calculate gas mileage (math must be hard), or they fail to understand that just because a car is rated at some MPG that doesn't automatically mean it will get that number.
Something has to be broken first.
FYI a dirty air filter cannot reduce fuel economy.
I had ATF service at 25,000 miles, so I guess I'm set with that for a few more years.
Would you recommend having the coolant flushed and replaced?
As long as no incorrect coolant has ever been added, it's fine until it's scheduled service is due.
One more question: I'm lucky to get 20mpg but I admittedly have a bit of a lead foot and 50% of my driving is done in the (small, not very congested) city. Also, with the amount I drive, it the financial impact is pretty darn low). That said, is there anything I should have done or looked at to improve my MPG?
and use Top Tier gas.
Low octane.
Change your driving habits.
Use LRR tires if you can accept the trade offs (if any).
Keep the tires aired up. My own preference is quite a bit higher than spec but there are trade offs.
You can't do much about traffic congestion, and sitting still waiting for stoplights and traffic absolutely kills fuel economy.
If you want to see what it can do, go to the gas station on the edge of town and fill the tank, immediately jump on the highway and go rock steady 55 mph until that tank is empty. Do not slow or stop, because it takes a lot of fuel to accelerate.
Refill at the end and calculate mpg.
My best gas mileage seems to come in around steady 50-55 mph.
Real interstate speeds (keeping up with traffic) kills my gas mileage numbers unless I can tailgate close enough to draft nascar style.
(rant) Many people post in forums crying about bad gas mileage, but have zero understanding of how to calculate gas mileage (math must be hard), or they fail to understand that just because a car is rated at some MPG that doesn't automatically mean it will get that number.
I have a HondaCare policy that expires in February, so if there's something mechanical that could be causing this, I'd much prefer to have it done while within my warranty.
11-11-2018
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Rep Power: 0 Re: 2011 LX-S with 30,000 miles--maintenance needed?
Overzealous is replacing filters that were not dirty.
FYI a dirty air filter cannot reduce fuel economy.
Or another 25k miles. What does your owners manual say? It may also be printed on the emissions label in the engine compartment or on the hood.
As long as no incorrect coolant has ever been added, it's fine until it's scheduled service is due.
Avoid Ethanol fuel, (not possible in many areas)
and use Top Tier gas.
Low octane.
Change your driving habits.
Use LRR tires if you can accept the trade offs (if any).
Keep the tires aired up. My own preference is quite a bit higher than spec but there are trade offs.
You can't do much about traffic congestion, and sitting still waiting for stoplights and traffic absolutely kills fuel economy.
If you want to see what it can do, go to the gas station on the edge of town and fill the tank, immediately jump on the highway and go rock steady 55 mph until that tank is empty. Do not slow or stop, because it takes a lot of fuel to accelerate.
Refill at the end and calculate mpg.
My best gas mileage seems to come in around steady 50-55 mph.
Real interstate speeds (keeping up with traffic) kills my gas mileage numbers unless I can tailgate close enough to draft nascar style.
(rant) Many people post in forums crying about bad gas mileage, but have zero understanding of how to calculate gas mileage (math must be hard), or they fail to understand that just because a car is rated at some MPG that doesn't automatically mean it will get that number.
Something has to be broken first.
FYI a dirty air filter cannot reduce fuel economy.
Or another 25k miles. What does your owners manual say? It may also be printed on the emissions label in the engine compartment or on the hood.
As long as no incorrect coolant has ever been added, it's fine until it's scheduled service is due.
Avoid Ethanol fuel, (not possible in many areas)
and use Top Tier gas.
Low octane.
Change your driving habits.
Use LRR tires if you can accept the trade offs (if any).
Keep the tires aired up. My own preference is quite a bit higher than spec but there are trade offs.
You can't do much about traffic congestion, and sitting still waiting for stoplights and traffic absolutely kills fuel economy.
If you want to see what it can do, go to the gas station on the edge of town and fill the tank, immediately jump on the highway and go rock steady 55 mph until that tank is empty. Do not slow or stop, because it takes a lot of fuel to accelerate.
Refill at the end and calculate mpg.
My best gas mileage seems to come in around steady 50-55 mph.
Real interstate speeds (keeping up with traffic) kills my gas mileage numbers unless I can tailgate close enough to draft nascar style.
(rant) Many people post in forums crying about bad gas mileage, but have zero understanding of how to calculate gas mileage (math must be hard), or they fail to understand that just because a car is rated at some MPG that doesn't automatically mean it will get that number.
Something has to be broken first.
11-11-2018
#6
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Rep Power: 0 Re: 2011 LX-S with 30,000 miles--maintenance needed?
Overzealous is replacing filters that were not dirty.
FYI a dirty air filter cannot reduce fuel economy.
Or another 25k miles. What does your owners manual say? It may also be printed on the emissions label in the engine compartment or on the hood.
As long as no incorrect coolant has ever been added, it's fine until it's scheduled service is due.
Avoid Ethanol fuel, (not possible in many areas)
and use Top Tier gas.
Low octane.
Change your driving habits.
Use LRR tires if you can accept the trade offs (if any).
Keep the tires aired up. My own preference is quite a bit higher than spec but there are trade offs.
You can't do much about traffic congestion, and sitting still waiting for stoplights and traffic absolutely kills fuel economy.
If you want to see what it can do, go to the gas station on the edge of town and fill the tank, immediately jump on the highway and go rock steady 55 mph until that tank is empty. Do not slow or stop, because it takes a lot of fuel to accelerate.
Refill at the end and calculate mpg.
My best gas mileage seems to come in around steady 50-55 mph.
Real interstate speeds (keeping up with traffic) kills my gas mileage numbers unless I can tailgate close enough to draft nascar style.
(rant) Many people post in forums crying about bad gas mileage, but have zero understanding of how to calculate gas mileage (math must be hard), or they fail to understand that just because a car is rated at some MPG that doesn't automatically mean it will get that number.
Something has to be broken first.
FYI a dirty air filter cannot reduce fuel economy.
Or another 25k miles. What does your owners manual say? It may also be printed on the emissions label in the engine compartment or on the hood.
As long as no incorrect coolant has ever been added, it's fine until it's scheduled service is due.
Avoid Ethanol fuel, (not possible in many areas)
and use Top Tier gas.
Low octane.
Change your driving habits.
Use LRR tires if you can accept the trade offs (if any).
Keep the tires aired up. My own preference is quite a bit higher than spec but there are trade offs.
You can't do much about traffic congestion, and sitting still waiting for stoplights and traffic absolutely kills fuel economy.
If you want to see what it can do, go to the gas station on the edge of town and fill the tank, immediately jump on the highway and go rock steady 55 mph until that tank is empty. Do not slow or stop, because it takes a lot of fuel to accelerate.
Refill at the end and calculate mpg.
My best gas mileage seems to come in around steady 50-55 mph.
Real interstate speeds (keeping up with traffic) kills my gas mileage numbers unless I can tailgate close enough to draft nascar style.
(rant) Many people post in forums crying about bad gas mileage, but have zero understanding of how to calculate gas mileage (math must be hard), or they fail to understand that just because a car is rated at some MPG that doesn't automatically mean it will get that number.
Something has to be broken first.
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