RHewitt

Hello, everyone. This is my first time posting here, and being still a learner when it comes to some things, I may not be using proper terminology, so bear with me and correct me as needed so that I can have an easier time communicating.

I recently bought a 2010 Civic EX sedan with only 34,000 miles on it - everything was in good shape, but I was of course worried about some issues since, low mileage it may be, it's still spent ten years living in northern Ohio weather. I have noticed when opening the driver's side window while it is wet(as I work newspaper delivery, this happens a lot on rainy nights), it struggles to open - it's a power window, and it will open with jolts rather than smoothly, often clicking as it does so. A bit of WD-40 fixes this for a couple nights, but it always comes back - on the advice of a friend I used white lithium grease for a seemingly more permanent fix. Recently, I noticed that when closing, the weather stripping on the window channel(outside-back of the driver's window, specifically) folds outwards is some spots - it folds inwards everywhere else on every other window. I notice near the top of it there is a crack where this tendency to fold outwards begins, and when above 30MPH there is some extra wind noise. While the window is open, there are what I can only describe as "ripples" in the stripping, as well.

I am wondering for one thing if this might be somehow contributing to the issues with it opening while wet. But more importantly, how big of an issue is this, and how do I fix it? I'm worried that with it doing this, it is not sealing properly and might be letting water into places it is not meant to reach.

I have attached some photos, and even a video, of the issue in the hopes of helping. Please forgive the quality, my phone camera is rather poor - I will look into getting better images if need be.
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Thank you in advance for any assistance you are able to provide.

RHewitt

Oh, something I forgot to note; I did a little test to see if a strip of duct tape could hold the molding in it's proper state when the window was closed. I KNOW this is a bad idea and should NOT be used as a long-term solution to window molding issues; this was JUST a quick little test for whatever information doing so might provide in figuring out how to deal with this - it was a 4-inch strip for proof of concept and I removed it as soon as I'd finished.

In any case, without sticking it very deep into the window channel(the window did not struggle against it at all), it DID hold the molding into the proper spot when I clsoed the window - as soon as it passed the strip, the molding started folding outwards again.

I don't know if this will help figure this matter out, but I figured it can't hurt to have every little piece of information possible.

ezone

WD40 ruined it.
Replace the glass run channel seal.
Clean the glass and clean the channels THOROUGHLY before installing the next seal. You don't want leftovers to ruin the next seal.

In the future, use only silicone lubricants on the rubber. My go-to is a can of spray silicone with a red straw

RHewitt

Okay, then, next question....

Where do I get replacements? I've looked around, and I cannot find replacement seals for this car.

And what's the best way to clean the channel? Grease and WD40 don't exactly clean off easy just with water, after all.

EDIT: Some info on how to remove/install the new seal would be helpful as well. Having trouble finding info on that. I can't even find clear info on if I can replace the seal without replacing the whole run channel.

ezone

Any Honda dealership. I'm sure there's a dealer near you?

Online dealerships usually sell at wholesale prices but shipping costs might make you reconsider
Here's a few online USA Honda dealers, you can look up your own parts and check each one out

hondapartsnow
hondapartscheap
bkhondaparts
hondaautomotiveparts
hondapartsconnection

.com


Cleaning, IDK.
Dawn dish soap and scrubbing?
Brake parts cleaner?
I'd sure want to get rid of the petroleum residue, it will ruin the rubber seals. How little does it take to damage the seal? I don't want to find out.

I'd suggest remove the glass so it can be scrubbed around the edges---by this time you'll have plenty of room to figure out how to replace the seal. It's mostly just gain access, then yank out the old, then tuck and slide new into place same as the original was. Use opposite door as visual aid?
May or may not need to loosen the mirror.

I douse spray silicone on the vertical sections of a new run channel seal, all around.JUST the vertical sections.
It will help the sliding and tucking installation, and help the glass movement.
EDIT: Be careful about getting silicone on visible plastic parts though. It can discolor.

RHewitt

I've checked all those sites and the seal doesn't come up when I search. Replacements for the whole run channel, sure, but if I'm understanding things correctly I don't need the actual channel, just the seal.

I found this on eBay - is this the right stuff? (nothing like this comes up when I search the sites you list - not that I was able to see, at least) https://www.ebay.com/itm/Glass-Run-C...frcectupt=true I'm not keen on getting this kind of stuff from eBay, but if I can't find it anywhere else I will - and if I'm more aware of what I'm looking for I may even find it where I was missing it before.

"Just yank it out and stick the new stuff in" is of limited help since I've no idea how it all fits into place.

(something you need to understand about me: I'M AN IDIOT)

Colin42

If you can't figure it out you can always pay someone to do it

CraigW

iTrader: (1)

Wrong info......

ezone

Item #7 in this parts catalog LINK is what I am calling the glass run channel seal for the drivers door



https://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com...door-regulator

RHewitt

I can't afford to pay someone to do just anything I want to the car. I'm not the most knowledgeable, but I'm more than capable of doing 90% of non-engine/transmission work as long as I have good information on how to go about doing it. I've already had to pull out the inside of the door to replace the side mirror(kamikaze deer - amazingly there wasn't a single scratch or dent beyond the broken mirror), so it's not like I'm only limited to doing the simplest of the simple.

I'm living off the income from newspaper delivery, I have to make payments on a loan for this car, and I have to pay the dealership to do the scheduled maintenance in order to keep the lifetime powertrain warranty, and said maintenance comes more frequently for me because thanks to my job I'm putting about 70 miles on the car every night. And I mean EVERY night - weekends included.

So yeah, things are tight. Going to a pro is an option I need to do my best to avoid. Chances are this work is within my CAPABILITIES, but at this time it is not within my KNOWLEDGE - if we can correct that, I'm sure I can do it - just as soon as I can be sure I'm getting the right part.

I saw that, but from what I've seen looking around that part is separate from the actual seal - the diagram doesn't appear to contain the actual seals that are rippling. I might not need to replace that whole run channel. Guides on doing either are also annoyingly lacking.

I can't afford to take this to a mechanic to have it done if I can avoid doing so, so I need as much info as I can possibly get.

Something I should note - I haven't mentioned this yet because I was more worried about adequately explaining things and getting the necessary info, but the passenger side is having the same issue. The stripping hasn't begun folding outwards, but it's rippling in a similar manner and will likely need to be dealt with as well. So the costs of any work I have to do need to be doubled.

ezone

#4 and #7 in the link are the rubber seals the glass slides in.

RHewitt

Joy. Why can't rubber seals be cheap? I literally can't afford to buy even ONE of those right now.

ezone

Junkyard.


Wait. Buy a spray can of silicone lube and douse the vertical parts of the seal where the glass has to slide. See if that at least improves the problem

RHewitt

I tried that after you said to use silicone lubricant. It is sliding better(it already was thanks to the lithium grease, but it got even better with the silicone lube), but it doesn't fix the issue with the seals themselves. They're still rippled and folding outwards, possibly not forming a proper weatherproof seal as a result.

RHewitt

No junkyard in the area has the part. Only two 8th gen Civics in the area that haven't already been completely stripped and on their way to metal recycling and both are coupes, which obviously won't fit a sedan window.

If I see any evidence that there may be a risk of a leak i might just have to use the bad idea duct tape solution until I can afford the replacements...

RHewitt

Okay, I just had an interesting development that may change the short-term approach - the passenger side stripping isn't folding outwards anymore. I've given the driver's side another good spray with the silicone lubericant just in case I hadn't done enough to get the same result(it clearly needs to soak in a bit before it'll have any effect - it took multiple days before the issue stopped on the right side). But even if this works on both sides, there's still a problem - each has a visible crack near the top, and are separating a bit from the doorframe. If there any kind of sealant that could be used as a short term solution without causing trouble for later repairs?