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No they were soaked with oil until I cleaned them,
It is getting gas cause I could smell it after a while, also,
Sometimes cleaning isn't good enough. If you can smell gasoline while trying to start the engine, it's probably flooded. Plus, all the oil that was standing in those plug tubes went straight into the cylinders when you removed the spark plugs, so there's probably liquid gasoline in some, and liquid oil in others still in there that's likely splashing the plugs and getting them wet, effectively snuffing out the spark.
I viewed the video and suggested you keep the gas pedal mashed to the floor while cranking it (deflood mode) but it still takes a lot of finesse to get a flooded engine started.
I know the camshaft plug seal needs to be changed (by the egr valve) but I don't think that'll keep it from starting
That just makes a mess but can't keep it from starting
I checked the timing by looking in the oil cap whole cranking also checking the belt while valve cover was off and it is still intact.
Seeing the timing belt is "Intact" is not confirming the camshaft and crankshaft are still in correct synchronization.
My main sensor
Nobody knows what part that is. A relay? Any one of about 30 relays throughout the car, perhaps?
clicks repeatedly when jumper cables are not on but that would only suggest a loose ground but that doesn't explain when they are on and I don't hear it.
Insufficient battery power to operate correctly, the battery is bad? Won't hold a charge?
A weak or bad battery leads to flooding (due to slow cranking rpm). You already said it's shot, you need a good one (beg/borrow) and you might want a battery charger to keep it from being drained too.
Originally Posted by Butturfly22
Okay I will do.
No report if the grounds were clean and tight?
v a rabbit's foot under my hood
It was not very lucky for the animal involved!
Did you ever figure out what the burning smell was?
There was another exchange that you did not provide important answers for:
tries to turn over but when it does it dies immediately. I do know for a fact my battery is shot cause it will not hold a charge.
1) Watch the green key symbol in the gauges when you try to start it. Does the engine try to run but stalls out at exactly 2 seconds, leaving the key symbol flashing rapidly?
2) Does it start and try to run for a total of exactly 2 seconds, but the green key symbol is NOT flashing rapidly?
(unplug the cam position sensor and retry, if it starts and runs longer than 2 seconds SHUT IT OFF RIGHT NOW and see if if the timing belt went slack and jumped time)
i don't if u can see it very well. I took them the other day out of instinct. I didn't even know what it was I just knew it was important. I'll take better ones later. I haven't had car long and I can tell the previous owner ran it into a mud hole or something cause red dirt is all under hood. Also the passenger side floorboard is soaked with water I found out. Can't find that hose they talk about though.. guess I'll have to have it towed. Just gate paying someone to do do something I can do and risk them causing other issues to make more money.
It's a PCV valve. You can replace it when you change the oil.
Satan's Butthole
Your starter's right here. You'll need an extension and a 10mm socket to get the bolts off the intake. Spray them so they don't break.
I took out ignition coils and tested them with a multimeter and while doing this I noticed one was cracked and the rubber boots was coming off of two of them so I ordered new ones off Amazon. So I am hoping that does it. If not, next route is crankshaft or camshaft sensor. Wish me luck. I'll post pics of old coils.
The boots came off the coils that were soaking in oil.....yes? Yea replace. I've never been able to glue those rubber boots on and have them survive long enough to make effort worthwhile, I don't even try anymore.
Make sure it's not going to leak more oil to ruin the new coils.
Cracked coil top....impact or other physical damage? Not an ordinary issue IMO.
Nice knees lol
I love to work on cars in general. They facinate me. Now before I pulled the coils out I did change the valve cover gasket and seals and grommets. A guy thought he need to be a hero and help and I don't think he put the seals on good enough on the valve cover but I won't know that until I get it running. Now I was able to get it started for just a few minutes but it wouldn't rev up (like it wasn't getting gas) and white smoked puffed out the tail pipe. And the engine shook terribly so I decided to change the coils, plugs are changed too. I'm hoping once replaced it will run normal again. This was an all of the sudden deal. Car didn't run hot, and gave no real warning signs except battery going dead, hence letting me know I need a new battery.
Now I was able to get it started for just a few minutes but it wouldn't rev up (like it wasn't getting gas) and white smoked puffed out the tail pipe. And the engine shook terribly so I decided to change the coils, plugs are changed too. I'm hoping once replaced it will run normal again. This was an all of the sudden deal. Car didn't run hot, and gave no real warning signs except battery going dead, hence letting me know I need a new battery.
It's flooded. It's extremely flooded.
PLUS you dumped a good sized dose of oil into the cylinders. Whenever you get it to run, IT WILL SMOKE A LOT until the mess is burned off and burned out of the exhaust.
This too will pass, but it will make a huge cloud before it does.
I put another reader on it and got codes p0113 and p0135. Only got it to start for a minute or two and could not get it to accelerate when I pushed the gas pedal. Would only stay started if I held gas pedal down to floor. Let up and it dies.HELP!!!!
I put another reader on it and got codes p0113 and p0135. Only got it to start for a minute or two and could not get it to accelerate when I pushed the gas pedal. Would only stay started if I held gas pedal down to floor. Let up and it dies.HELP!!!!
because as ezone already stated the engine is completely flooded, full of gas and oil and whatever other stuff has been poured in there trying to get it started.
get it started, keep the pedal to the floor until it clears out, and then let it run for a while to burn out all that crap. it needs to run, starting it and letting it die isnt helping, its just making it worse
Originally Posted by Butturfly22
So your saying give up it'll never run again. Could the poor bunny or kitten that got ate by my engine have done this?
if you can't figure it out take it to someone that can
It's flooded. It's extremely flooded.
PLUS you dumped a good sized dose of oil into the cylinders. Whenever you get it to run, IT WILL SMOKE A LOT until the mess is burned off and burned out of the exhaust.
This too will pass, but it will make a huge cloud before it does.
My catalytic converter gets hot really fast but my temp Gage doesn't move. I am talking not even 30 seconds after it starts smoke comes off of it and you can feel the heat. Could part of that poor animal still be lodged in there?
My catalytic converter gets hot really fast but my temp Gage doesn't move. I am talking not even 30 seconds after it starts smoke comes off of it and you can feel the heat
Yes, normal.
.
Could part of that poor animal still be lodged in there?
So not a vacuum leak? I had to fix one in another car I owned and it had exactly the same (hesitation, stalling) symptoms you're describing. Google.
If you can't get it to an auto parts shop (many of them will read codes for free) there are OBD2 readers around $20 that are standalone or use a bluetooth connection to a smartphone. Be sure and read the fine print; they're not all the same and you have to purchase your own app to use with it.
Staring at a CEL and swapping parts won't always work. I'd say you're on the right track getting the spark plugs ready and the gasket replaced though. Whatever it's worth to you...
The upstream oxygen sensor on this car is easy (actually an "air to fuel ratio" sensor). You have to get the real one though and it costs at least $100. Sorry. When you open the hood, it's sitting. right. in front of you. It's probably the easiest thing you've ever fixed. I get slightly better gas mileage (33-38 mpg) and the check engine light went out. It's like fixing a spark plug.
You can rent an oxygen sensor removal tool from most auto parts stores (deposit and return) so you don't have to cut the wires. The replacement part is Denso 234-9005. If you don't get the right part number, or buy an eBay super-sale off brand one, it won't work. Do some research. And did I save the actual part I replaced? Oh look, I did. You can probably tell I had a hard time getting the wiring harness off (it was rusted on). I just cracked the plastic on the upper part of the clip and pulled it off. In your case not even being able to keep the car running, I'd forget about it and save yourself $100. Sorry again (or not, just my opinion).
The IAC valve is on the throttle body. What are you going to do? Take it off and clean yours?
Do you know what you're doing? Get someone to help you. If you **** it up... you'll be crying. Apologies for the blurry picture! This is what the gasket for it looks like.
So... (notes) the spark plug wells were full of oil. You fixed that. There's plenty of gas getting to the engine. Battery was completely dead - replaced. Starter is, what at this point?
The two codes could be from anything.
Last edited by onetwoothreee; 12-04-2018 at 06:57 AM.
Well, this is the IAC valve... clean and dirty. Yes, my car runs better. Cleaning it MIGHT fix the code (for the IAC valve, not the upstream "oxygen" or air/fuel ratio sensor). Of course, replacing it might too. Either way, I suspect you'll need to have the code cleared with an OBD2 reader after it's been replaced or cleaned. If you read the forums + YouTube it, everyone says it's difficult to remove. I didn't find that true at all, but I let it soak for quite a while and I have a bit set which has the exact match for the three screws in it. Harbor Freight $9.99 It's ridiculous that some people try to do it with the throttle body on. There's no way. The 3 bolts and 1 nut (no idea) that hold the throttle body in place are NOT ON TIGHT AT ALL. If you've ever replaced thermal paste on a CPU, I'd say it's almost the same level of difficulty. The gasket is easy (Fel-Pro 61322 is something like $10) and all the hoses, clamps and clips are pretty much self-explanatory. You can do it wrong and make it as expensive as you like though. Why don't you take a picture?
In the last one, you'll see the idle screw with a thin stripe of yellow paint on it. Follow the grey middle of the throttle body plate to where it meets with the throttle cable. It's kind of hard to see. Strangely, turning it more than 1 full turn from where it stops completely disengages it from the throttle cable on mine. So you could turn it to where it's somewhere in between that, but much further and it doesn't really matter. Dead stop to just past 1 full turn set my idle to approximately 700 rpm, although I think the computer compensates for this in some way. You could remove it entirely at that point I suppose, but I just put a drop of blue Loctite on and left it. That's it! Side note: I have an eBay intake on mine, which makes it all easier to get to. You'd definitely need to remove the intake housing to do any of the work on these parts though.
It's very dirty! I brush my teeth with throttle body cleaner! (^_^)
So clean! All I need is this little bit of air.
What a piece of junk! Why are you doing this to me?
Last edited by onetwoothreee; 12-08-2018 at 09:35 PM.
Going to change o2 sensor this week if cleaning doesn't help. . Fuel filter and pump have never been replaced and car has 250000 miles do do waiting in new fuel module assembly to get here. Ordered it from Walmart . I got AIT code and the p0135 whitch in the hayne's book it says 2 different things I am assuming is the same part. But when I look up prices it gives two different prices. I am just replacing what I see wrong. Only have had car since Feb this year. Rebuild my prelude engine at 17. And I like older engines, carbs are so much easier. If it's not the sensors or fuel pump (which I only intended on changing the filter but decided best to do the whole thing), then next to check is crank sensor and/or injectors.
11-24-2018
