EMAN64

Hi Everyone,


About a week ago my girlfriends 2005 Honda Civic LX had the check engine light come on. I took it to Autozone to get the code read and it was code P1457 and said "Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected - B". It was read with a Bosch enhanced OBD I & II Scanner.


I read up a bit of information on the code and it seems fairly common with civics. I did tighten the gas cap as recommended about four days ago. I had scheduled an appointment for tomorrow morning with Honda to take a look at it, but the light ended up turning off by itself today.


Should I still take it in to get looked at by Honda tomorrow morning, or should I cancel the appointment?


Any help is greatly appreciated, thanks!

ezone

P1457 ......it should not be a gas cap fault. It should be a fault in the canister section of the system.

Came on and went out....The EVAP system appears to have failed its self test at least twice to turn the light on, but it has now passed its self test at least twice in a row and the light is out. That makes the problem an intermittent issue though it's not currently failing:


I wouldn't bother taking it in until it is failing consistently. If the light isn't on they may not be able to find anything conclusive, I'd hate to pay a checkout fee for nothing.

MN?....I'll guess it's going to need a CVS valve due to rust, and maybe a canister.

mikey1

i had that code....

mine ended up being the canister valve was leaking

NDNV

Replace the EVAP By-Pass Shut Valve and the EVAP Canister (which would be rusted together) for code P1457.

EMAN64

Thank you for the help everyone. The check engine light ended up coming back on a few days after it turned off again so I took it in to Honda today and they said it was the Evap Cannister. They quoted me well over $500 to fix which seems pretty steep. I'm thinking I'll take it to my local mechanic instead. Does this price sound steep or is it in the right range?

ezone

It's more than just a canister.

A little over 200 MSRP (not including dealer markup) for the usual parts (canister, CVS valve, couple screws).....a fee for checkout, another fee for replacement. My dealer would probably make a similar total estimate around 500ish. (I don't do the numbers, I just fix the cars)

DIY is a cheap way to go.

EMAN64

Thanks for the update on the price, that clears up the cost a bit more (the dealership did a terrible job explaining the cost of everything).

ezone

I was just guessing based on what I see regularly on that particular car.

You could always ask for an itemized, detailed breakdown of their estimate.

EMAN64

Thanks,

If I did it as a DIY, is the charcoal canister and extra parts difficult to replace? I've been seeing mixed answers on it from researching it a bit.

ezone

IMO this is an easy one.

The canister is held to the car with ONE (rusty) bolt, a 12mm socket and extension should reach it.
Maybe 5 hoses to undo (one has a coupler--squeeze its ears to disconnect), some wires to disconnect. Then you can have the canister and its misc parts in your hands.



This CVS valve leaking (see soap bubbles) due to rust is a typical failure I see here, and the screws are usually seized so you can't remove the valve without tearing something up.

mikey1

the canister with the valve attached is easy to remove like ezone said,

the screws that attach the valve were so rusted on mine i had to grab them with vice grips to loosen them,

if you wanna be really cheap you could spread some silicone around the outside of the gasket surfaces on the valve, this would probably seal it good enough so your cel would not come on,

i have done that before on a different vehicle,

EMAN64

Thank you for the help Ezone and Mikey. I plan on getting this done myself. Out of curiosity, I've been trying to find which parts exactly to purchase for when I replace it myself. Do I just need to buy the charcoal cannister and reattach the hoses, bolts, etc... after removing the original? Or are there other parts that I need to purchase as well?

ezone

Canister assy 17011-S5A-A30

Valve, canister vent shut 17310-S5A-L31

and 2 screws 93893-05010-08

Online parts catalog link: http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...L+PIPE+%281%29



I usually take the canister down and see if I can get the screws loose from the CVS valve before making an estimate. If the screws will come out, no need to replace the canister if it is not the actual problem.

bulls2030

Hi, I have a 2005 Honda Civic LX 4dr Automatic (same as the OP had). I have the same code as well P1457 with about 110k miles on the car. The code has been on since the beginning of this year but emissions is due in about a month and I need to get it cleared and fixed. I have owned the car since 10k.

Do you guys recommend to get genuine honda parts or would aftermarket ones be good and last long as well? If I get the parts from rockauto, what would I get? Vapor Canister, Vapor Canister Vent Valve, and the two screws? (http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/h...ust+&+emission)

and how hard is it to do this yourself? I don't really work on cars much but I am a DIY guy. I plan on either getting it done or doing it myself depending on time.

Would appreciate any feedback and assistance. Thanks so much!

mikey1

it is a pretty simple job,

jack the rear of the car up if you want to make it easier,

remove the entire cannister with the valve attached, it makes things much easier,

the cannister s only mounted with one screw/bolt, then just disconnect the hoses,

once removed, the valve is attached to the cannister with two screws.....these screws may be VERY RUSTY


going by your link it is the vapor cannister vent valve / solenoid that you need

bulls2030

Thanks. I will order the parts and see how it goes. Much Appreciated for your help!

bulls2030

Quick Question, do you recommend I get the Cannister assembly as well (aka Vapor Canister)?

mikey1

its not really nessessary unless its cracked, which is very unlikely,

some people choose to replace the cannister and valve together because sometimes the screws that hold the valve on are rusted and difficult to remove

bulls2030

so the part should come in the mail later today so i plan on doing this today. Whats the easiest/best way to remove the rusted screws? I jacked up the car and saw they are rusted.

ezone

Start soaking them in penetrating oil about 4 days ago

bulls2030

Okay. So I jacked up the car and had no luck unscrewing the screws. They were rusted.

bulls2030

so i jacked up the car yesterday. i tried to take off the vent valve with the cannister on the car. the screws were rusted so it made it difficult to take off. i read your post again this morning and you recommended to take the whole canister off. can you guide me where the bolt is?

bulls2030

So with the help.of my uncle , we removed the cannister. (That was a pain to take that bolt off, it was extremely rusted.) And like you all said, it was a pain taking off the two screws for the vent valve.
So during the process, we were able to take one screw off the vent valve but the other we had to bend and the thread came out from the Canister. I wanted to put a new vapor cannister in since i wasnt sure how good it would seal but my uncle insisted it would be fine so we reused the vapor cannister.

So my question is since we only have one bolt on the cannister, is that okay? See attached pictures. I am just a little concerned the valve is slightly open. I am going to see this week if the CEL comes back on or not. Thoughts?
https://imgur.com/a/BCxI7

ezone

The O ring around the stub takes care of sealing. Missing a screw won't hurt anything as long as the valve can't fall off.

If it doesn't work, the CEL will come on again with the same code.

mikey1

sorry for the late reply, havn't been on here in a bit,

i removed the entire cannister with the valve attached,

i used large vice grips to grab the screw heads with, it worked well, you will never get them off with a screwdriver

bulls2030

Thanks.I will drive it this week and see if it comes back on. Really appreciate the help of everyone here!

bulls2030

So the check engine light came on again. Ugh. Any advice? Should i replace the vapor canister too?

bulls2030

Just to give another update.

I got home and used my obd wifi android scanner to scan the code again. I am not getting the Code P1457 now. Now I am getting code P0497 (Evaporative Emission System Low Purge Flow).

Could this be because of not bolting one screw to the vapor canister (since the threads to bolt them in came out while removing the old CSV)? See pictures below.

https://imgur.com/a/Yy1wm

Or do I need to replace something else (like the vapor canister purge valve)?

Would really appreciate some help.

NDNV

Did you use OEM parts from hondaautomotiveparts.com as suggested or after-market from Rock Auto?

bulls2030

I bought this aftermarket one from amazon (although rockauto carries the same one)
Dorman 911-762 Charcoal Two-Way Evaporative Canister Valve

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C0UA88W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_MDq6VNyFhwCuI

Would it make a difference? I am not getting the same code though (p1457). I am getting a different code (p0497).
Would appreciate your help.