Jedijaws

The key is stuck between 0-1. It won't turn on the car and I can't get the key out. The steering wheel is unlock and the gears are on park. Any easy cheap way of fixing the problem ? (Please I'm a father and I need the car for all of my daughters appointments)

ezone

High mileage? Jammed lock due to worn out tumblers? If so, it's probably time for a lock rebuild or replacement, possibly along with new key(s) depending on how worn they are.

If you can remove the column lock assembly from the column, you can get the engine started but the car will be easy to steal if you leave it like that.

Jedijaws

any cheap suggestions like what part should I buy?

ezone

Depends on what you consider "cheap".
"Cost effective" might be a more appropriate term, because this work isn't necessarily cheap.

Have you removed the complete lock assembly from the steering column yet?

Jedijaws

No I'm not to familiar with cars at all really. I was wondering if you can maybe put a link or step by step process, and also do you think I can find the parts I need at a junk yard ?

ezone

Replacing anything is gonna be expensive.....because of the need for programming keys and immobilizer to the PCM to make the engine run. My preference is to fix what's broken.....and there are only a few options IMO:

At our shop our fee for retumbling a column lock starts around 275 beans and goes up if fresh keys are needed.

Cheap(est) is gonna be taking the column lock off (diy) and having a locksmith (or diy) remove tumblers until it works, or remove all tumblers so it can't ever jam the key up again....
(NOTE: If someone stuffs in a wrong key and rotates the ignition, the immobilizer will prevent the engine from starting without a correctly coded key.)

Better option is to take it in to be retumbled so only the correct key works in the lock, but if a fresh key is needed the whole car has to be present for programming it.

I'd say to check local locksmiths, and check Honda/Acura dealer to see who can actually retumble the sidewinder lock, and get estimates on the work if you carry the lock in yourself, or if you have the car towed in and they do the whole job.

Next option is to get a complete column lock with keys and the PCM as a "married" complete set from a working car.....but this way you'd have to have extra keys on your ring (inconvenient), and if you ever lose all the keys to the car, a key cut by code won't work in the ignition at all.....and you're back to this point right now. PLUS a used lock is already worn and may eventually do the same thing as yours is now.


If you can get the lock assembly off of the column, that's half the battle.
You need to get the column covers off first, then work with the headless bolts to get them unscrewed (chisel or punch, and hammer)

Video is for a newer car but the method of removing the headless bolts is the same

Jedijaws

The part he took out at the end is was I need to get replaced right ?

ezone

No.
After the assembly is removed from the column, it is further disassembled:

random google image search pics:

Cylinder removed from column lock assembly



More realistic pic of a lock cylinder



Further disassembled to reveal the tumblers that cause the problem

CraigW

iTrader: (1)

Do you put the headless bolts back...? or replace with standard bolts ??

ezone

Some use a dremel to cut a slot in the head then use a screwdriver to remove it,
Some might try to use a drill to bore through and knock the head off

Some reuse the bolts
Some replace with regular metric bolts

I usually use a punch and hammer to get them loose, then use a different tool to spin them out with a power driver.

We keep the correct bolts in stock at our shop, so I throw the old ones away and get new. This car uses part #35102-SV4-003, MSRP is a little over 2 beans each (2 bolts required).

Jedijaws

So I fix the problem, thank you guys it help a lot. What I did was buy a new ignition tumbler and switch on amazon for about 275 (not including tax) and called a locksmith once I installed it to program the new set of keys. Installing it was hard at all pretty simple actually.

Ashkan

Hi guys! I had that same ignition problem with my Honda civic 2003. I found a very professional locksmith in Montreal. He came to solve my issue on the spot.I couldent start my car , the key was stuck so i couldent leave.
I recommand Momo Locksmith 514-999-4341.

honda.lioness

Nice thread. My 2003 Civic LX ignition key failed nearly completely last night. Today using this thread and some youtube DIYs, I removed the ignition switch assembly. The two headless bolts came out pretty easily using a chisel and punch, like Ezone wrote. After I removed the assembly, I re-installed the headless bolts and cut a slot in them using a mini-cutting wheel from Harbor Freight. A small slot-head screwdriver worked fine to snug the bolts up when re-assembling.

I removed a few of the tumblers (wafers) and the ignition key works better. My Civic is not worth much, so I am inclined not to spend any money on getting a new ignition switch, programming, etc.

After I removed the assembly from the car, I used this great youtube video to guide me through removing the tumblers:

I thought removing and re-installing the ignition switch assembly was much easier than replacing the lock on one of my Civic's doors.

Thanks to Lazlong at another site for a good outline of the procedure. Here are my steps, adding to this outline.

DIY Ignition Switch Assembly Replacement

Tools needed: Rags, 10mm wrench or socket for battery terminal connector, small and medium Phillips head screwdrivers, very tiny and medium size flat head screwdrivers, tweezers, small chisel and/or punches, hammer, small nail, white grease.

1. Disconnect the negative terminal on the battery.
2. Wait AT LEAST 3 minutes before touching any wires. This allows the airbag system time to dissipate the charge in the capacitor-safety first.
3. Looking up at the steering column, take out the 3 Phillips head screws. The two pointy screws are located highest.
4. Pull down the tilt lever lock on the left side of the steering column. Adjust steering column as needed subsequently.
5. Gently pry top cover on steering column off the bottom cover.
6. Remove the bottom fuse box cover by turning by hand the two 90-degree twist locks.
7. Pull down on and remove the bottom steering column cover.
8. Pull these connectors out and push out of the way: (a) Large outboard grey connector with red wires; (b) Small middle white connector, whose harness will be on top; (c) Medium-sized inboard connector
9. Use the chisel and punches with the hammer to unscrew the two headless screws holding the clamp. They were not tight.
10. Disconnect the two small green connectors. Disconnect the large brown connector.
11. Remove the ignition switch assembly. Take to workbench.
12. If you are not going to replace the headless screws, then cut slots in them so they will turn with a flat head screwdriver. I used a mini cutting wheel from Harbor Freight on my electric drill to do this. Check for the screwdriver’s fit. Alternatively, go get 8mm diameter x 1.25 pitch (=M8) screws at the hardware store, with small heads. Maybe allen wrench versions? The shaft is about ½ inch long.
13. Remove three brass Phillips head screws. Slide plastic etc. (switch light?) off.
14. Remove one brass Phillips head screw. Slide plastic etc. (immobilizer?) off.
15. Remove small roll pin by facing the assembly down and jiggling. See the youtube video. The first time, it fell out without any effort on my part.
16. The casing has a spring in it that may fall out and get lost if you are not careful. Look for it, remove it, and set it aside with your other parts.
17. For the following steps, insert the ignition key as needed to rotate the cylinder and tumblers and hold the tumblers in place.
18. Rotate cylinder to make the second, longer roll pin accessible. Tap it out with an appropriate size nail. See youtube video for detail.
19. Note the fancy washer’s orientation, then take the washer off.
20. Make sure the key is installed to hold the tumblers. Pull the cylinder out.
21. Slowly, somewhat painstakingly, remove the tumblers and tiny springs. Preferably do this work in a shallow cardboard box so you do not lose the springs. Note the numbers on the tumblers and where they were located in the cylinder. Clean all with PB Blaster. Maybe use compressed air to blow out the cylinder after all the tumblers and springs are removed. Use the tweezers and tiny flat head screwdriver as needed to clean, remove and install the tumblers and springs.
22. Re-install the tumblers and springs, alternately checking the fit with the key. This did not always yield a working tumbler. Leave out any tumblers that do not work.
23. Lube with white lithium grease?
24. Install in reverse order.