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My 2004 Civic doesn't charge and depletes the 12V battery and sets codes in the IMA system. My fear is the stator has an open circuit in the coils and won't allow the system to charge. How do I test the IMA motor for proper operation? What voltages am I looking for and where? What kind of resistances should I be seeing at the stator and at what connectors? Any help would be appreciated.

 
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Start with the codes....What codes does it have?
List all codes for all systems

 
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Engine codes are P1600 and 1601, IMA codes are 1435, 1560 and 1569. What is your suggested next step? The battery pack was replaced(with a new battery pack) as well as the controller by an auto repair shop before I purchased it (they washed their hands of it and took the loss).

 
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Who got you the codes?
Erase codes and see which codes return?

The important codes:
P1560 motor commutation sensor A circuit high input
P1569 battery cell temperature signal circuit problem

There's stuff going on here that only one person can answer, and you likely won't get answers from that person.

What was the ORIGINAL problem it was taken to the (NON-DEALER?) shop for?
Was this non-dealer shop trained, capable and equipped to deal with Hybrid systems?

Did the P1569 occur immediately upon installation of the new IMA battery?
Did this code exist prior to IMA battery replacement?

Does anyone know for sure if the IMA battery replacement was a genuine Honda unit? Was it aftermarket?

IF the battery was genuine Honda replacement, was the IMA software updated to match the new battery? (as per instructions included with the new batteries from Honda)



I have suspicions that would have to be proven through troubleshooting.
I'd say to use the FSM and follow the detailed troubleshooting steps in it for each code.

 
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I got the codes, I'm a retired ASE master tech and bought this car knowing it had issues. I have never worked on a hybrid and also know that without guidance I'm spinning my wheels, thus I'm reaching out to someone with knowledge of the system. The repair shop has about $6k in the car trying to fix it. They replaced the battery and it still had issues so they to it to Honda and had a new MCM installed and updated. They gave up after that and the car has sat for over a year. These are the present codes and the tech that worked on it can't remember if the codes were present prior to battery replacement or not but feels like they were. He does remember the Honda tech telling him that IMA stator was probably bad which is why I was searching for a way to test the electrical generating aspect of the system. Any direction at this point would be welcomed. I.E. do I start with the lowest code first?

 
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I have access to All Data for reference but have the Civic service manual on CD on its way. Just curious, have you ever seen this combination of code before?

 
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If the car sat for a year, even the new IMA battery pack could now be bad. Sitting in a discharged state is rough on the battery .

You probably figured out the P1600/01 only mean there are codes to be found in the IMA system.
P1435 is charge/discharge balance problem, step one is to chase any other codes present first.

P1560 with P1569, no I have not seen those occur together.
Which one first? Pick one and run with it.


Looks like Alldata has the diagrams for the commutation sensors and the temp sensor.
Vehicle » Diagrams » Electrical Diagrams » Hybrid Drive Systems » Wiring Diagrams
32-3 and 32-5

I just typed the 2 fault codes into Smalldata and came up empty. Maybe you can request more info on those codes from their library service.

Check your CD service manual info carefully. I hope you got the manual for Hybrid.

The 3 commutations sensors output square waveforms that overlap each other


Since there is a quarter mile of wire harness involved and ......looks like 5 total connections between the MCM and the A sensor in question, I might start with inspections and hope it's something simple like a rodent ate some harness. Rodents LOVE wires.
I've seen nests in the IPU area, it wouldn't surprise me if one mouse caused both codes.

I've also seen wiring and pieces get damaged during IMA battery installation. that SOB is unwieldy and it's easy to inadvertently bang into important things. (I've done it, had to fix it too)

Then on to continuity testing, and component tests.
Isolate the harness at both ends: remove the seatback, flip off the power switch, open up the IPU panel, stand in a bucket of water, lick your fingers. Seriously watch yourself around the big IMA cables, it can kill you until you are dead. High voltage and high amperage DC will grab you and hold you tight, it does not let go of you. Observe all published precautions, I saw a list of warnings in Alldata. Grab your linemans gloves and all that PPG.

Basically, they have you Unplug wiring from MCM unit and IMA motor and test continuity on the 3 wires involved in the A sensor.
Check the 3 wires for continuity, and check for continuity to ground (short to ground)
Then they have you doing voltage tests (backprobe) at the MCM, check for voltage with key on then check with engine running. bla bla bla

It would not surprise me if the commutation sensor is bad, I think our shop has seen a couple of them bad in the past.


On the battery temp sensor code, looks like there are 3 connections between battery and MCM. They have you check wiring continuity between the battery and MCM again, then voltage, and if the issue is inside the IMA battery they have you replace the battery. (I'd probably start on the last step, see if it's got voltage on the temp sensor circuit in question)

 
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Thanx for the information, I'm sure there will be questions that follow as I'm of limited knowledge in the realm of hybrid systems but fear that I may learn to much about them in the near future that may make my head spontaneously combust. I have a clutch to put in it and will change the commutation sensor and recheck afterwards with my fingers crossed. I'll let you know how it goes!

 
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Before you yank the trans, you better wait for the manuals and thoroughly read up on what special tools and procedures are needed to get the drive plate and commutation sensor parts out.


You'll probably still have issues with the temp sensor code afterward to deal with.