BR549

My 2001 EX hood release works, but if I want to get it to latch again, I have to reach into the latch mechanism with a screw driver and move the latch back to the closing position before I shut the hood. Looks like the spring is attached OK, I am assuming cable is rusted or dirty, but when the hood release is pulled, it feels solid and releases right away.
Any luck cleaning and lubing these, or should I just get a replacement assembly? Comments and advice welcome! Thanks!!

Poopies

iTrader: (4)

If you shot us a good picture of the assembly, we might be able to say for certain!

ezone

Lube the latch since it's something you can do easily, then work it in and see if it gets any better.

I bet it needs a cable though.....
Seems like lubing the latch only fixes 10%, and replacing the cable fixes the other 90% of them.

I don't think I have ever had to replace a hood latch unless it was damaged in a wreck or something like that.

kinakoes2

If you have one of these:



you won't need to route a new cable.

--

Guy in the video is a bit of a hayseed... but all the info is correct. You can find the luber at any motorcycle shop for ~$15 - $20; Amazon for $10.

Some notes on the video and use of this device:

- he says in the clip to lube at the end he's on and not the carb/TB-side end, because what the luber and can of lube does under pressure, is force the old crap out, along with any rust or metallic particles that form. If he did it the other way, the crap would back up at the other end, where there's less room for it to escape.

- in a throttle cable, you'll see more wear-related debris; in a hood release, you'll see more rust IMO as it gets moved a lot less plus gets similar engine compartment heat as a throttle cable.

- I'm not partial to PJ1 products... it can be pretty cheap, messy stuff. I prefer something more viscous-drying like DuPont Teflon Chain Saver lube (btw... if you're lubing with an installed cable, do disconnect the cable in the footwell, or at least catch drippage with protective paper towels, if you can't be arsed to remove the cable there).


Cables will always begin to bind at the ends, as these are most exposed to the environment. For best results lube both ends but the latch side is the side that'll need it most regardless. Have owned several motorcycles more than ten model years, not one needed a new cable on them (though in hindsight a new one on that Hades-hot 5th-gen VFR800F woulda been smarter).

ezone

Some of these hood cables seem to bind somewhere around the front of the wheelwell, from what I've seen, maybe 2 feet or so from the latch end?

Maybe some lube and a good blast from an air gun would help? That cable luber thing looks like a nifty idea.

kinakoes2

Yeah the luber can be fiddly sometimes depending on how large or what shape the end of your cable has (har har ), but in all seriousness it works like a charm. Still have mine from the 90s in the top box... seems to be a moto/powersports-centric market for these AFAIK, since they'll have tons of exposed cables to elements...

The two ports for lube are little one-way seals, so it won't spew out the other port in use. And even if that happens with heavy use (as it will in a shop environment), just use your Snap-On Finger Pad Lube Geyser Stopper with Nitrile Sleeve, ftw...

On really long automotive cables... agree compressed air is super-handy to have (hell, compressed shop air is handy full-stop TBH) to force the lube where it needs to go, if not at the ends. Unfortunately I'm quite sure some OEMs don't use tools like CAD to determine the best route for cables... esp if they won't kill someone if they bind. If ya have access to compressed air, by all means use it... with safety glasses on, of course.

BR549

Thanks for all your replies and the video. I learned something new that I will share with my biker co-workers.