redbug2

Key is stuck in Ignition and the car gets stuck in park.

Brake Lights DO work.

Park light in dash will not light up when it is in park.

Took center console apart thinking it was a switch at the Automatic Shifter console. Noticed that when I unbolted the linkage that the gear indicator is somewhere other than the console. Moved linkage rod by hand and the N,D, etc lights moved. Just no park light....

I think if I get the switch to show Park it will work again.

Where is this switch? It must be what Is not working when the car is in park.

Putting console back together now. Then under the hood to find the switch...

TiggerDX

iTrader: (1)

Before you go through all of that, make sure you try moving the steering wheel wheel back and forth to release the ignition lock. You probably have already tried it but it never hurts to mention it.

ezone

End of trans. Passengers wheelwell, black cover covers the range switch.

redbug2

Took off position switch, opened it up, everything looks fine. What else should I look for? I guess the light on the dash could be out but I don't think that alone should stop my car from staying in park? Somewhere in the circuit that park light is failing? Is there another switch on the transmission that confirms the car is in park?

Going to ride the car tomorrow and lock the keys in the car...

Able to turn wheel, steering lock is not binding the key from what I can tell.

ezone

If you disconnect the battery will the key come out?

ezone

Post your car info whenever you make a new thread. Not all 7th gen cars are alike.



If you unplug the range switch connector and use a small paper clip to jump between terminals 4 (orange) and 6 (black/white), that may let the interlock release the key (IF the problem is the range switch). This should also get your P light to illuminate IF the range switch was the problem.
If the wiring is open circuit between the range switch and the PCM/Gauges/MICU, all bets are off.



There's also a microswitch in the shifter assembly that lets the MICU know the lever is in park and the button released, and this is separate from the PRNDL display and range switch set. This can become a problem if someone spills a drink into the shifter area.

redbug2

Ezone,

Thanks for your help.

2004 Civic EX 2 dr automatic.

Disconnected the battery, key came out. I'll try the other tests today.

Regards,

Redbug2

redbug2

Switch's on shifter seem to be good based on continuity check. Poked around on the PRNDL harness. Wife was in the car. Went from orange to every combination, every light but park came on.

Another variable in the system is an automatic starting and alarm system which I'm just about ready to rip out. Never use it and it always starts the car from the remote sitting in my pocket when I don't want it too.... Wonder if that's screwing this up? I'm afraid if I rip it out I'll screw something else up.

Any other ideas?

redbug2

Triple Checked the PRNDL switch. It's good. In park position there is continuity between orang, black with white stripe and gray.

Center console locking solinoid has 12v coming to it and when the other side is grounded it operates.

I guess I'll just start tracing the PRNDL wires back.

Also purchased and replaced brake light switch, no differene.

ezone

Did you jumper the two terminals like I suggested earlier?
Did the "P" on the dash light up then or not?

redbug2

Yes, I had done that before on every possible connection starting from orange, P never lit up.

Today I bench tested PRNDL switch to prove beyond a shadow of a doubt that when it was in park Orange, black and white, and gray were all connected.

I'm going to attempt to trace the wiring back. There must be a switch or busted wire somewhere.....

ezone

I'm looking at the wiring diagram....
The P light is an LED so there's little chance it's bad.

It looks like the PRNDL switch (range switch) harness goes up to the 10 wire connector on top of the trans, then the wire goes to the gauge cluster AND multiplex unit through another connection and a splice.

Path:

The black/white (terminal #6) wire in the short switch harness (what, about 8 inches long?) turns into blue/black (terminal #8) at the engine harness 10 wire connector attached near the dipstick hole.

This wire then follows the engine harness through the firewall into the gray 20 wire connector (harness junction connector) in front of the PCM (Connector C101, terminal #1, still blue/black).

Then it goes to the MICU and gauge cluster. There's a splice somewhere in the branch but no location is listed.
There's another connector between C101 and the gauge cluster, near the right side of the center console, harness junction C453 (13 wire, white), still a blue/black wire.

Terminal B5 at the gauge cluster.

So...I'd ohm test through those connections on that one wire to find the apparent break and move probes down the line to locate said break..


I think that since the key interlock and the P light is out, the break should be between the PRNDL (range) switch and the C101 connector. (both MICU and gauge light affected)

redbug2

redbug2

Followed PRNDL switch next to starter.. Pulled off left air box over starter. Followed wires behind glove box. Took connector off, found black and white wire, no voltage???

redbug2

redbug2

Worked at splitting wire next to starter to test continuity, what a pain... Finally pulled it apart and...... I got the switch off and turned it around... Bingo!

redbug2

redbug2

Stipped the wires and connected them with a test lead... Put the car in park.. Looked at the dash... Ezone and others, thanks again!

redbug2

ezone

So the blk/wht wire near this connector was where it was broken? Any rodent teeth marks in it? LOL



I was gonna say you shouldn't be looking for blk/wht because the blk/wht turned into blu/blk at the connector pictured above, and stays blu/blk throughout the remainder of the circuits, but I guess you got it working. YAY