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Can the axle shafts be removed without disturbing the ball joints between the hubs and LCAs? Would removing the 2 upper hub-strut bolts create enough clearance to push the axles out of the hubs?

I'm planning on removing my transmission and trying to think ahead and minimize what I have to do.

Also, what's easier? pulling the transmission from the top or bottom? (manual 5spd)

I have an aftermarket intake that's simple to remove and I've removed the thermostat housing before while doing the HG. It was cake. However, I have never touched the sub-frame. I only have hand tools and no hoist or helper.

 
Rep Power: 519

I take the trans out the bottom if I have to take it out. I have no idea if you can get it out the top, but since the input shaft has to slide out of the clutch AND clear the pressure plate before the trans can go up or down, I doubt it will go out the top.

Separate the ball joints from the knuckles (so wheel alignment will stay damn close to what it was before you took it apart).
You will be taking the subframe down to get the trans out, the LCAs stay attached to the subframe.

If you take the 2 bolts out from between each strut/knuckle, you will need an alignment because there is at least a half degree of camber adjustment at that connection-- and that changes toe by a whole lot.
I really don't think the axles will come out of the hubs if you do this anyway.



Beg, borrow, or steal a helper.
Jack stands. Tall ones. Sturdy ones.
Maybe 2 floor jacks to jockey the subframe with if you gotta do it all by your lonesome.

 
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Thanks Ezone, I can always count on your expertise.

I've read that once the flywheel and pressure plate are removed there is enough clearance for the input shaft and transmission to come out the top. I'm going to do it this way and see what happens.

I've noticed this question come up a lot. I'll post some pics.

The reason I'm doing it this way is because I don't want to touch the sub-frame, exhaust pipe bolts or the front and rear engine mounts. Less work is always good. Ithink draining the rad and removing the thermostat housing is a fair trade off to the sub-frame route.

 
Rep Power: 519

I've never tried to take one out the top...... but now that you mention it I have had the clutch all apart without actually taking the trans out of the engine compartment so I bet it is doable.

 
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I managed to pull the transmission out from the top today. I've posted some pictures. It was very easy. I had a helper for the physical lifting part and we had it lifted out in less than a minute.

The thermostat housing and pressure plate had to be removed first. Pretty easy to do both. The fly wheel and sub-frame stayed in place.

Removing the transmission first made it much easier to get access to the fly wheel bolts and I was able to zip them off with my impact driver in no time (The flywheel is getting re-surfaced).

 
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Thank you so much for this information. I had a feeling it was removable from the top (I've seen a DIY on here where they slid the transmission away from the engine and removed the clutch / flywheel). I will be tackling this some time next year This saves from removing the subframe and having to re align it later