indecks

Hi there,

My alternator pivot bolt (part # 90313-PLC-010) was installed improperly by a well meaning friend when he replaced my alternator, and the threads were stressed. When I had another issue with the alternator's tension bracket come up, loosening the bolt to remove the alt basically made a bigger problem.

My father in law and I repaired the bolt by cutting a small part of the end of the bolt off, cutting new threads for it and rethreading the hoop on the alternator mounting bracket.

After about a year I noticed that my alternator was slightly "jiggly" and causing a belt squeal. Upon further inspection I realized that the pivot bolt was creeping out due to engine vibration. Fixing this wasn't a huge deal as I could just retighten the bolt, adjust belt tension, etc. Lately I noticed that the bolt's grip was diminished (obviously due to cutting part of it off back then). I cant tell at this point if the outer hoop on the bracket has been stripped.

This is where my question comes in. The bracket and inner fenderwell wall were designed as such that the bolt cannot physically slide out all of the way to replace it easily. There's just not enough space to pull it out. The head of the bolt hits the fenderwell. Would it be possible to say cut a small hole in the fender well wall in order to slide the old bolt out completely and install a new one that I can order? Or would that cause a structural integrity issue with the fender well? I'm talking about a hole just big enough to push the bolt through. Not a huge gaping hole.

Second question:

If cutting a hole like I mentioned is just not a smart thing to do, and assuming that the outer hoop was in fact stripped, requiring a new bracket, would it be possible to find a bolt of similar size, but just a bit longer than the standard Honda bolt, and then affix a nut at the other end?


Third question:

Am I over thinking this and is replacing the mounting bracket extremely easy?

Thanks for your time, I appreciate the help!

kinakoes2

Stop right there... and get yourself a TIME-SERT kit for the fastener off Amazon. Those threads are done; and a Silly-Coil is not the solution when the bolts ground the alternator, not to mention the vibration from operation. Expensive... but if you want this problem to go away permanently, Time-Sert is the only way.

Bad place to have a horizontal bolt hole go bad, too... doesn't look like there's any clearance to use the tools and insure a plumb installation. Perhaps ezone can shed some light on a way to get to them easily.

indecks

thanks for the suggestion kinakoes2, but as I mentioned, we already tried rethreading the hoop and the bolt itself. Since the bolt is a bit shorter now, I believe it doesn't have enough of a bite to keep itself in shape. I'm not sure what you mean by silly-coil though.

kinakoes2

Look up TIME-SERT, and you'll see what it is -- a thread REPLACEMENT solution. Just retapping pulled threads will not fix them -- you need to drill out the old threads, retap a size bigger, and install this hardened steel TIME-SERT insert, to fix it permanently. Great thing is, the resulting insert is stronger than the original tapped aluminum hole.

You may not need to swap the bolt out, since its threads are steel and the hole's are aluminum. Depends on the quality of the die used and the skill (or non-skill) of the die's operator.

A Silly-Coil is a Heli-Coil, an inferior thread replacement solution. There are so many Silly-Coil fixes I did as a moto tech, that I cannot in good faith recommend them for any thread replacement. I've never seen a TIME-SERT come back in 15+ years of using them, including for exhaust manifold stud holes. Bulletproof.

CivicRider

I believe you can take that bolt out. I think you will have to remove power steering pump,mounting bracket, left engine mount. and then jack up the engine a bit to bring it close to upper wider part of fender wall.

crxmanpat

iTrader: (1)

The alternator bracket is very easy to remove once you have the alternator itself out. It's just 4 bolts into the block from the front.

Buy a new mounting bolt, remove the alternator and the bracket, remove bad bolt and install new one, remount the bracket and install the alternator. Easy peasy lemon squeezy.

indecks

Removing the PS pump and alternator is no problem, and I do have a floorjack that I can do that with but I'm wary of messing with the engine mount...



Is it really just 4 bolts? In the diagram in my repair manual and on diagrams I find online, it looks as if other parts are on top of it. Looking at the image I attached, now I can see there are 4 bolts (#s 21, 22 and 2x #27) but isn't #14 part of the engine mount?

Is nothing else sitting on the bracket, maybe the valve cover, or anything else?

edit: btw you can see a zoomable version of the image (and engine) on this site: http://parts.sonshonda.com/showAssem...roduct=1511848

ezone

5 bolts hold the alt bracket to the block. 3 from the front, 2 thru the timing belt side. You will already have the motor mount bracket off of it.

I take off the motor mount bracket and jack up the engine as far as it will go to get the long bolt out of the alternator.
The engine can't fall out the bottom when you take the mount bracket off, it will sit on the subframe at the lowest.

IDK if I would do a time-sert for a customer or recommend replacing the bracket.

The bracket has to fit correctly into the timing covers, so those need to come off to do it right IMO.


#14 is a stud where the motor mount bracket attaches. If you are going to replace the entire alt. mount bracket, make sure that stud can be extracted from the bracket first. If not then you would need to order that too.

kinakoes2

RE: TIME-SERT eligibility -- depends on what the bracket is made of.

If it's stamped steel, it's only appropriate if the threads in it are nuts welded in. I fixed such a threaded hole in the frame of my Ford Escort for the front crossmember mount with a TIME-SERT, which was indeed a nut spot-welded to the inside of the front frame rail (17mm bolt as well) -- perfectly flush and permanent until I want to remove it, which is even easier than installing it. If the hole's cast aluminum, then it's perfect for a TIME-SERT, as making a soft-metal threaded hole much stronger is its reason for being.

In the end... it's what the cost will be in time and money. If it's worth it to just swap out the bracket with a j/y one and save the wrenching by DIY, then fine. That's probably a better option for the home wrench, as a TIME-SERT kit is muy expensive for the tools (inserts are cheap, but you want T-S's install tools, trust). Just swapping it out also guarantees you won't ruin a bracket by hamfisting the TS insert prep. Hope you have a torque wrench this time!

indecks

Hmm. maybe a longer bolt with a locking nut would be preferable then. Is there a certain spot that I can put my floor jack to hold up the engine?

ezone

Better make sure you can reach the nut to get it tight.....and maybe put a note there so the next guy doesn't cuss you so much. I know I sure wouldn't expect a nut there if I take it apart.
Under the oil pan is about the only choice.

Never jack directly on the oil pan. Use a large block of wood to spread the weight out across the entire pan area so you don't bend or break the oil pan.


HTH

indecks

Thanks ezone, I appreciate it. I'll see what I can come up with.

Tj Jones

Same thing happen to mine so as you suggested , it's a good idea to get a longer bolt and nut and install it. You will have to take off the motor mount and lift your engine but it will go in.

Colin42

This thread is 6 years old...