runarbrink

I have a 01' Civic 4door and I have two problems i just cant figure out.

1: The center locking system doesn't work. When i put the key in it only opens the drivers side and the remote doesnt open anything. Ive checked all the fuses and none of them are burned or damaged. When i press the remote the main actuator in the car makes a ticking sound but no doors unlock. I took off the rear passenger door panel at the drivers side and the voltage meter caught a 30V pulse on the wires that plug in the acutator when i pushed the remote... is that something that is normal or? The actuator in that door panel turns but It feels like it's not getting enough power. The drivers side has two plugins that i dont understand what does, I tried measuring one of them and it made a constant 12V. The main thing is, why doesnt any door work? What should cause all of them to break and what should I check next?

2: My high beam doesnt work. When i switch from the low beam to high beam the low beam shuts off and no high beam comes on and no blue light comes on in the dashboard. What in the hell is going on?

Hope I will get some usefull answers cause this is an irritating matter.

ezone

Are you in Europe? I never hear anyone here call power locks "central locking" except German car owners.

I think a wiring diagram would show one plug as for the power lock motor, the other is for a set of switch contacts inside the actuator housing.

The 2 wire connector from the drivers side should be for the motor.
I'd stick a light bulb (test light) in it and see if it lights up when you activate the power locks, both directions.

Your 30v reading could be from a field collapse. Relay or motor, magnetic field and induction. Could be normal? Could just be your meter? Can't tell, IDK.

Otherwise, the lock motors get weak through age and use. I have seen the cars with 4 dead actuators because people didn't fix them as they went bad, they waited until NOTHING works.

Get some wiring diagrams if you really want to troubleshoot. I don't have access to diagrams for non-US market cars.

Over here, 7th gen power locks were controlled through the MICU, which is built in to the dash fusebox.
Does the car have any other strange electrical problems, like dome lights or air conditioner issues?

I see about 5 or more fuses that lead to the MICU itself. Have you tested all fuses in both fuse boxes? (Dash fuse box and engine compartment fuse boxes.)


Again with the wiring diagrams. If the headlight bulbs are good, then I'd go right to the headlight switch connector and perform my initial checking at that point.


HTH

runarbrink

Yep, Europe.. Iceland.

The motor in the drivers side door is hard to examine because it is in a difficult place to reach. When I took off the drivers side door panels i saw two plugs that connect to the actuator.. 1 plug had 3 wires in it and the other plug had two wires. If the drivers side power locks go out does all the other doors go out too? And theres a little knocking noise in the actuators in the back when i press the remote.


Yes I have looked at both fuse boxes, all fuses are just fine.

Whats a MICU?

Headlight switch connector, where can I find that?

I've tried looking for a wiring diagram but havent found one yet.

runarbrink

Other electrical problems? This car is not equipped with aircon. Doesnt have any other electrical problems.. except few of the lightbulbs in the dash are out which probably has nothing to do with the matter I think

CraigW

iTrader: (1)

https://www.civicforums.com/forums/a...8&d=1247931161

https://www.civicforums.com/forums/a...1&d=1254923682

Both are US... yours could be different.

Driver door has 2 wires for actuator motor and others are for locked/unlocked status switch

Locks, look real close at the lock **** for any slight movement when attempting. Listen for buzzing from actuator also. Put you hand on it and feel.

Headlights...?? Do you have DRL ??

runarbrink

The ***** don't move. I looked at and tried put my hand on the passenger door actuator and is buzzes a little and moves the **** just a little bit, not enough to unlock nor lock the door.

ezone

For the moment, I'll assume your cars are built like ours.
The MICU is Hondas equivalent of a body systems control computer. Also called Multiplex Unit on some of the cars.
Short answer would be no. The rest of the doors should still be able to do something even if one door went dead.They could still be trying to operate, but could be weak...or have insufficient voltage being delivered to operate. Just guessing.
On the headlight switch. I assume yours is on the end of the turn signal stalk as is ours?

runarbrink

Well yes, our cars arent any different then yours. To examine the switch I have to remove the steering wheel off right?

CraigW

iTrader: (1)

Passenger side sounds as if it is getting voltage and sounds like bad actuator.

Remove upper and lower column covers to access switch. Push in at seams on sides to release.... and the clips WILL break.

Isolate drivers side actuator motor leads, and briefly apply external voltage.

ezone

Only outward appearances are similar. There can be big differences even between US and Canadian versions, and we are next door to each other.

Is yours RHD?? there is an awful lot different there.

Wheel stays on.
Just remove the top column cover as Craig said.
You only need to access the wiring on the back side of this switch


But you really should have a wiring diagram, you shouldn't be poking at random wires without knowing what you are doing first.

runarbrink

Alright, thanks for the tip about the switch.. Ill check that out.

With the acutator, what do you mean by isolating the motor leads.. (sorry for asking.. i'm actually a educated electrican heh).

Is it alright to for example remove the rear left actuator(because is it so easy to remove it) and plug it straight to the battery to see if it works any better?

ezone

Jumper wires would be much faster.

It is a PITA to get the latch out of the door if you didn't need to.

ezone

Unplugged.

2 step process:

You check for power and ground in the connector while actuating the locks (this is where I use a simple 12v test light)


and apply power and ground (jumper wires from the car battery) directly to the motor to see if it CAN work.

runarbrink

Alright, i will try that and get back to you when i am done.

Thanks for all the help!

runarbrink

Out of curiosity i removed the actuator from the rear left cardoor. I plugged that actuator straight to the battery and it hardly moved, it buzzed a little bit but if its plugged straight to the battery the stick should move back and forth because it has a fulltime 12v to it right?

ezone

Don't leave it connected to power more than a second or two, that can burn it out.


Reverse 12v polarity to reverse direction. If it does not actuate, then it is junk.

runarbrink

Is it possible to order four actuators from ebay? Will they cost me a fortune, and is it possible to get another actuators?

ezone

Factory parts are reasonable (IMO) over here.
Cheaper through online dealer catalogs.
You know they will fit and work right when you get factory parts.

Actuators for the front doors were under $40 each in this link (assuming your 01 over there is like ours over here)
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...ONT+DOOR+LOCKS

runarbrink

Fixed the headlights.

I it's best for me to order or find somewhere here in Iceland a single actuator in the back and try that out to see if it works. I think the actuators in the front have the same problem, want to have backup actuators right away because the process of getting to them in the front is a little bit longer..

ezone

I think I would want the front ones to work, simply because they are the ones I use most often...

I grew up with manual locks, manual windows, and no AC. I have not forgotten.
1963 VW Bug was my first car. (No heat either.)

runarbrink

Hehe, what an awesome car. Should have still owned that one and swapped it with a porsche engine.

I'll finish shaping up my car, sell it and getting a turbo.

runarbrink

http://www.hondapartsnow.com/Page_Pr...2893%201471936


ever ordered from that site?

ezone

I work for a Honda dealer. I don't need to order elsewhere.