starts then dies
08-13-2012
#31
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Re: starts then dies
Thanks again for all the help. The problem ended up being my timing belt jumping a tooth. After re-installing my timing belt I started to hear a humming noise. I'm guessing my timing belt is too tight due to the fact that when you tighten the belt tensioner bolt the tensioner tends to rotate outwards increasing the tension in the timing belt.
Does anyone know how to correctly tighten the tensioner bolt to 33 ft-lbs (is this the correct torque spec?) without increasing the tension in the timing belt? I'm guessing to use an allen wrench (hex key) to counteract the force when torquing.
Does anyone know how to correctly tighten the tensioner bolt to 33 ft-lbs (is this the correct torque spec?) without increasing the tension in the timing belt? I'm guessing to use an allen wrench (hex key) to counteract the force when torquing.
08-14-2012
#32
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The tensioner bolt torque is 33, and they have this whole thing designed to be working correctly when that final torque is done (assuming all the previous steps were done correctly). I didn't notice any humming when I did mine - could it be that one of the utility belts is misaligned or too tight/loose?
I would feel uneasy about the timing belt having jumped a tooth, and not knowing for certain what caused it. What method did you use to tighten the crank pulley bolt, and how confident are you that it was (and is now) torqued enough?
I would feel uneasy about the timing belt having jumped a tooth, and not knowing for certain what caused it. What method did you use to tighten the crank pulley bolt, and how confident are you that it was (and is now) torqued enough?
05-28-2015
#33
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I am currently experiencing the same problems on my 03 Honda civic ex. I called a Honda dealership close to me and found out there is 3 recalls on things on my brand of car that could be causing it to do this.
05-28-2015
#34
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Re: starts then dies
If your problems are indeed like described in this thread (starts, stutters, and dies), take it to a good shop and ask them to check out the timing belt. Mine did it to me twice, the second time because the tensioner was weak and let it slip. At least, that's what the mechanic told me, and I have no reason to disbelieve him; he was the only one that fixed my problem out of three separate places.
05-30-2017
#35
Re: starts then dies
to semvhu, my car has had the same condition as yours twice. This time is on my wallet and jjmastertech in honda.tech.com nailed to the bone. This is what he recomends and I pray it works for you and solve your troubleshooting and you end with an excellent ride after this.
Most likely, your car has jumped timing. Just went through this with a 2004 Civic 1.7l.
It is easy to check:
1. Unplug the crank sensor.
2. Start the engine.
If it runs without shutting off, your engine timing has jumped.
Explanation: The engine has 2 timing sensors; the cam sensor and the crank sensor. It uses the cam sensor to start the engine since this one can tell the engine which cylinder is in position for starting. Once started, it uses both sensors to run the engine. If the signals are off, it stalls to protect the motor (or try anyway). It can actually run on just the cam sensor so if the crank sensor fails, the car won't die.
If you have a "no-start" condition, it probably is not the crank sensor since it doesn't use this one to start
Most likely, your car has jumped timing. Just went through this with a 2004 Civic 1.7l.
It is easy to check:
1. Unplug the crank sensor.
2. Start the engine.
If it runs without shutting off, your engine timing has jumped.
Explanation: The engine has 2 timing sensors; the cam sensor and the crank sensor. It uses the cam sensor to start the engine since this one can tell the engine which cylinder is in position for starting. Once started, it uses both sensors to run the engine. If the signals are off, it stalls to protect the motor (or try anyway). It can actually run on just the cam sensor so if the crank sensor fails, the car won't die.
If you have a "no-start" condition, it probably is not the crank sensor since it doesn't use this one to start
When i checked the timing it was off by 4 to 5 teeth, about 10 to 15 degrees off on balancer shaft, Keep in mind this was for HONDA CIVIC 2002, dx, 161K miles, D17A1 type engine, which is interference engine.
Autozone lets you rent Compression Tester ~$45.00.
I reset the timing on the engine and did a DRY COMPRESSION Test, 2.5 seconds of cranking per test per cylinder, Each compression was above 160 PSI.
Then I did a WET COMPRESSION Test (put little oil in cylinder), similar test setup as described above. The compression was 175 PSI minimum. This told me that the rings maybe worn slightly worn over the life of engine.
$41 bucks for Timing Kit from E bay.
Total time for opening and troubleshooting was 5 hours not taking hunting for proper tools for the Job.
Hope this helps someone in the future.
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ReignByDesign (10-22-2022)
05-30-2017
#36
Re: starts then dies
to semvhu, my car has had the same condition as yours twice. This time is on my wallet and jjmastertech in honda.tech.com nailed to the bone. This is what he recomends and I pray it works for you and solve your troubleshooting and you end with an excellent ride after this.
Most likely, your car has jumped timing. Just went through this with a 2004 Civic 1.7l.
It is easy to check:
1. Unplug the crank sensor.
2. Start the engine.
If it runs without shutting off, your engine timing has jumped.
Explanation: The engine has 2 timing sensors; the cam sensor and the crank sensor. It uses the cam sensor to start the engine since this one can tell the engine which cylinder is in position for starting. Once started, it uses both sensors to run the engine. If the signals are off, it stalls to protect the motor (or try anyway). It can actually run on just the cam sensor so if the crank sensor fails, the car won't die.
If you have a "no-start" condition, it probably is not the crank sensor since it doesn't use this one to start
Most likely, your car has jumped timing. Just went through this with a 2004 Civic 1.7l.
It is easy to check:
1. Unplug the crank sensor.
2. Start the engine.
If it runs without shutting off, your engine timing has jumped.
Explanation: The engine has 2 timing sensors; the cam sensor and the crank sensor. It uses the cam sensor to start the engine since this one can tell the engine which cylinder is in position for starting. Once started, it uses both sensors to run the engine. If the signals are off, it stalls to protect the motor (or try anyway). It can actually run on just the cam sensor so if the crank sensor fails, the car won't die.
If you have a "no-start" condition, it probably is not the crank sensor since it doesn't use this one to start
When i checked the timing it was off by 4 to 5 teeth, about 10 to 15 degrees off on balancer shaft, Keep in mind this was for HONDA CIVIC 2002, dx, 161K miles, D17A1 type engine, which is interference engine.
Autozone lets you rent Compression Tester ~$45.00.
I reset the timing on the engine and did a DRY COMPRESSION Test, 2.5 seconds of cranking per test per cylinder, Each compression was above 160 PSI.
Then I did a WET COMPRESSION Test (put little oil in cylinder), similar test setup as described above. The compression was 175 PSI minimum. This told me that the rings maybe worn slightly worn over the life of engine.
POSSIBLE CAUSE FOR SLIP:
1) when I opened the timing belt covers, the belt felt taught. The tensioner spring seems on the weak side and i felt that the tensioner was not moving very easily. It could be the that tensioner bearing could be getting worn and the mechanicals mechanisms were on its was out. The Spring Constant of a spring changes over time especially when engine temperature changes, the spring loses its "springiness".
2) The belt may have been stretched over time and usage. Normal Wear and Tear.
$41 bucks for Timing Kit from E bay.
Total time for opening and troubleshooting was 5 hours not taking hunting for proper tools for the Job.
Hope this helps someone in the future.
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ReignByDesign (10-22-2022)
06-04-2017
#37
Re: starts then dies to semvhu, my car has had the same condition as yours twice. This time is on my wallet and jjmastertech in honda.tech.com nailed to the bone. This is what he recomends and I pray it works for you and solve your troubleshooting and you end with an excellent ride after this.
Most likely, your car has jumped timing. Just went through this with a 2004 Civic 1.7l.
It is easy to check:
1. Unplug the crank sensor.
2. Start the engine.
If it runs without shutting off, your engine timing has jumped.
Explanation: The engine has 2 timing sensors; the cam sensor and the crank sensor. It uses the cam sensor to start the engine since this one can tell the engine which cylinder is in position for starting. Once started, it uses both sensors to run the engine. If the signals are off, it stalls to protect the motor (or try anyway). It can actually run on just the cam sensor so if the crank sensor fails, the car won't die.
If you have a "no-start" condition, it probably is not the crank sensor since it doesn't use this one to start
Most likely, your car has jumped timing. Just went through this with a 2004 Civic 1.7l.
It is easy to check:
1. Unplug the crank sensor.
2. Start the engine.
If it runs without shutting off, your engine timing has jumped.
Explanation: The engine has 2 timing sensors; the cam sensor and the crank sensor. It uses the cam sensor to start the engine since this one can tell the engine which cylinder is in position for starting. Once started, it uses both sensors to run the engine. If the signals are off, it stalls to protect the motor (or try anyway). It can actually run on just the cam sensor so if the crank sensor fails, the car won't die.
If you have a "no-start" condition, it probably is not the crank sensor since it doesn't use this one to start
Opened timing cover and found timing off by 4 teeth, there are 104 teeth on cam sprocket and 4/104 is about 13 degrees on crank shaft. I reset the timing and performed compression tests and they all came out (DRY Tests) to be above 165 PSI. The test duration was 2.5 seconds per cylinder.
Ordered the parts KIT for $41 from e bay and when I opened up tensioner/damper for timing I found eyelet dangling in tensioner spring. Since spring was lose on tensioner, the DAMPING function of the tensioner was was not there during fast torque changes demanded during acceleration. The belt skipped some tooth and the timing was off. After kit was installed and timing was put back the car ran strong as ever!!
06-11-2017
#38
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: starts then dies
$41 bucks for Timing Kit from E bay.
Were the parts knitted from an old scarf?
Too cheap. Way too cheap. Might cost you far more than you bargained for.
It might grenade before the next oil change.
There's a reason I strongly recommend a Genuine Honda tensioner kit.
06-11-2017
#39
Re: starts then dies
@ ezone
Probably after market parts but all items were brand new.
The Spring and all had more tension than original pointing out that it was not salvaged parts, The e bay vendor had at least 10 more pieces left new condition. Honda is not the only gun in town, there are lot of aftermarket parts that are equal to it. Places like KETCO, NAPA, CarQuest sell lots everyday.
All in all, the timing belt fixed did the job and I am quite happy with the outcome.
Probably after market parts but all items were brand new.
The Spring and all had more tension than original pointing out that it was not salvaged parts, The e bay vendor had at least 10 more pieces left new condition. Honda is not the only gun in town, there are lot of aftermarket parts that are equal to it. Places like KETCO, NAPA, CarQuest sell lots everyday.
All in all, the timing belt fixed did the job and I am quite happy with the outcome.
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ReignByDesign (10-22-2022)
10-17-2017
#40
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HI semhv,
have you figure out the issue. Is the problem solved with your car. I am facing same issues with the car and mechanic cannot able to figure .can you please if they find the issue.
have you figure out the issue. Is the problem solved with your car. I am facing same issues with the car and mechanic cannot able to figure .can you please if they find the issue.
10-17-2017
#41
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
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ReignByDesign (10-22-2022)
11-17-2017
#42
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I was driving my 2005 Civic LX home from work Friday when it suddenly just died on the freeway. I pulled over to the side and tried to start it. The engine starts temporarily then stumbles and dies. It does this over and over and will never run for over a couple of seconds. The engine light does not come on, though I do not have a scanner to double check.
After getting a tow truck to drag it home, I talked to a few people, did some research, and did some thought on my own and came to the conclusion it is the fuel pump. I've been suspicious that the pump was having issues for awhile anyway. I replaced the pump assembly tonight via instructions I found on here, then turned the ignition on and off about 6 times to let the pump cycle the gas through the lines. The car still does the exact same thing; it starts for a couple of seconds then stalls out and dies.
Since then, I have looked under the hood for any obvious signs of connectors or hoses disconnected and cannot find anything. I have checked the fuse box and all the fuses are good. I can find nothing wrong anywhere by simple inspection.
It seems it must be a fuel starvation problem to me, but I'm no more than a weekend mechanic wannabe. The only other idea I have at the moment is to test / replace the fuel pump relay. If that doesn't work, my only recourse at this time is to take it to a good mechanic.
Help!
TL;DR
Car died, only starts for a couple of seconds and quits. Wasn't the fuel pump. Can see no obvious signs anywhere. At a loss. FML.
Things I have checked / replaced:
Things left to check:
After getting a tow truck to drag it home, I talked to a few people, did some research, and did some thought on my own and came to the conclusion it is the fuel pump. I've been suspicious that the pump was having issues for awhile anyway. I replaced the pump assembly tonight via instructions I found on here, then turned the ignition on and off about 6 times to let the pump cycle the gas through the lines. The car still does the exact same thing; it starts for a couple of seconds then stalls out and dies.
Since then, I have looked under the hood for any obvious signs of connectors or hoses disconnected and cannot find anything. I have checked the fuse box and all the fuses are good. I can find nothing wrong anywhere by simple inspection.
It seems it must be a fuel starvation problem to me, but I'm no more than a weekend mechanic wannabe. The only other idea I have at the moment is to test / replace the fuel pump relay. If that doesn't work, my only recourse at this time is to take it to a good mechanic.
Help!
TL;DR
Car died, only starts for a couple of seconds and quits. Wasn't the fuel pump. Can see no obvious signs anywhere. At a loss. FML.
Things I have checked / replaced:
- Fuel pump assembly: completely replaced
- Connectors, wiring, lines under hood: inspections have revealed nothing
- Fuel pump relay: turns pump on properly before cranking; keeps pump on until engine shuts off
- Engine codes: no codes are stored or come up during attempted cranking
- Scanner: all readings appear correct; of course, engine doesn't run long enough to really tell some things such as oxygen sensors and timing
- TPS: throttle position sensor in scanner appears to work properly
- Immobiliser: indicator suggests system is working correctly; valet key does not work either
Things left to check:
- Vacuum leaks: I presume this car has a vacuum system just like most others
- Fuel pressure: even though I have replaced the fuel pump, I have not checked the fuel pressure yet to make sure the entire fuel delivery system is working right
- Spark: perhaps the spark fails shortly after cranking
- Timing: perhaps the belt broke / jumped; seems as if the CPS would throw a code or something
- ??????????????
good luck
02-01-2021
#43
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Thanks for the suggestion, civicguy, but I don't think that's going to be the problem. The mechanic I took it to, who is the local Honda expert with 20+ years of experience, has given up on it and recommends taking it to a dealer to get fixed. I don't know yet what all he has tried, but I know in various discussions he mentioned fuel pressure, ignition, timing, ECM, immobiliser, etc. I don't know that I'll take it to a dealer just yet, but perhaps I'll try another not so local expert in Hondas.
If nothing works, maybe i'll just donate the POS.
If nothing works, maybe i'll just donate the POS.
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