BlueEM2

iTrader: (1)

It's pretty similar really. Only you have ignition wires, a distributor, cap and rotor to worry about as well.

jddm

I cheated. I read all the idle issues and have not done most of those been posted. But I own a 2002 Honda Civic Coupe EX 1.7l M/T

My car died on me on the interstate. I notice I was losing power as my speedometer would slightly go up as I press in the gas pedal. But before this my car was knocking. Sounded like a rod knock but my engine wasn't shaking... yet... until it actually died. Had it towed back to my house. It cranks but this time my motor is horribly shaking. Saw that my driver side mount blew up.Changed all four mounts and everything still shakes with a slight improvement. I forgot to mention. When it died on the interstate I was leaking oil, a whole bunch, butchecked my dipstick and oil level is still good.

My first problem that I had was bad clutch bc it kept grinding shifting into 3rd gear and going into reverse. Bought a new clutch and that didn't help. This was a 2 yrs ago. And with my clutch grinding, it went to popping out of gears, especially 5th. 5th gear was my common issue when I first bought the car.

It does sound like a rod knock or a spun bearing etc. But I dont want to spend any more cash than I really should. Was planning to swap out a new trans also. Help!!! And oh, my honeycomb converter split in two so I took off the bottom half. I can sum up many reasons but help me narrow it down. Not sure how it will perform when the car is warmed up. Never tried bc my motor rocks too much, so im scared to even let it warm up....

P40vic

Just wanted to thank BlueEM2 and Gearbox for the info in this thread. Tried the idle reset per the manual and it didn't do anything. Pulled the fuse per Gearbox's post to reset the idle and now it's working great. Props!

AdrianW

I had the exact same issue with my Toyota. I would try replacing the coolant temp. Sensor. When it screws up, the car thinks it's running in a different temp which will cause it to run lean, have accel issues, and even stall when hitting the gas

bresh21

Hi Guys,

Seeing that I have an idle issue that fits under the topic, but appears to be a new datapoint, I'll add my story to the list.

I just recently re-did my head gasket (thanks BlueEM2 for the DIY). After a few weekends of work, I got everything together yesterday, primed the fuel system, crossed my fingers, puckered up, made the sign of the cross, and attempted a restart. The engine fired up effortlessly but to my chagrin there was a burning smell accompanied by smoke coming from the exhaust man/downtube joint. Followed by a consistent wandering idle (cycled back and forth between 1k and 2.2k rpm at ~1.0 Hz). Engine light is on and throwing code for upstream O2 sensor - high voltage.

I have a flashback of taking the head off and spilling oil right on the down tube joint and (possibly) the O2 sensor (d'oh!). I believe this was the burning smell, and I suspect it's a culprit in the wandering idle. My questions are the following:

1) Is oil on the O2 sensor enough to throw off the idle that bad?
1.5) Should I attempt to run the car until the oil has a chance to burn off?
1.8) I suppose I should sea foam per the suggestion pointing to the LS forums.
2) Should I replace the O2 sensor - I don't suppose I can clean it ? If so, what's the best place to source one (man, those things are expensive)?

Thanks!

Joe

bsmiley

I got this link from the sticky on OEM parts... https://www.civicforums.com/forums/1...re-buying.html


There are two dealerships and this one is Majestic on the east coast: http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...artsSearch.jsp

I personally have ordered some parts from them and the prices were better than my local dealers...

Default_Slayer

Replace the o2 sensor and bleed your coolent system, if there is any air in it the idle will wander, also remove your throttle body and try cleaning it that may help

Joshbej1

Just installed ge intake mani stock z6 tb. Car is having idling issue if I remove the iacv it idles at 1500 with it on it varies from 2 through 3k rpms. Check engine light 15 is on but it runs the fuel rail and injectors were removed. There are extra sensor plug pieces that don't have a place because of the new manifold. I need quick help

MarshallG

I have a 2002 civic lx, Canadian build. The car first had issues during summer it would start to stumble and bog after running about 20 miles. Usually if I back off on the gas and feather it back up it would continue to run ok but would throw an o2 sensor code. After parking for more than a few seconds the car would refuse to restart until it had sat for at least 15 minutes. Once the weather got cold I have had alot of trouble starting the car, it fires up just fine but starts to stumble and misfire after about 1 minute, recording misfires on 2,3,4. This repeats 4 or 5 times until it warms up and then idles and runs fine until the first issue kicks in. I have replaced the iac and the coolant sensor as well as a full timing belt kit. This car does not have an EGR valve.

jflores96

Read all the previous threads but nothing came up which I have already done. I have a 2001 Civic LX EM2 with D17A1 (Non-VTEC engine) w/BMXA AT and CA Emmisions programmed. This car has been having the same idle issue for a while in which the RPMs are at 1200 at startup, then drops from 800(typical idle) upon engine warm-up and then after about 15 mins starts to idle at about <500 rpms (200-300?). I have had a previous po135 code (02 heater circuit), where I changed the o2 sensor and the cat (it had a crack) and that removed the code. Then I removed the tb, which was very dirty and cleaned it with carb cleaner. Replace the IACV, and no luck. Coolant was flushed and air-bled. There's no engine codes being thrown either so I'm lost as to what it could be.

Colin42

Did you do an idle relearn?

jflores96

Yes I've done that plenty of times, pretty much every time I disconnect my negative battery terminal. Recently I also had the head machined/gasket changed, as well as the block resurfaced. I honestly thought that the poor idle was due to possible loss of compression due to the blown gasket and warpage in the head or block. But the compression on the cylinders are now up to spec and the problem continues.

Jedijaws

hey i have a cylinder 2 misfire and my car started shaking a lot, and. I have no clue on what to do

Jprejean05

I have a high idle issue. Car stays at 2k rpm constantly, I replaced the IACV and the MAP sensor. I still have P505 as a code for idle control system. P1166 primary Heated O2 sensor. If the car is running and I unplug the MAP it runs perfect except it won't go above 3k rpms. I'm not sure what else to do to figure this out

Emunoz29

Hi,
i have a 2001 civic I bought 5 days ago. I'm experience some problems when I start the engine it takes 5-6 trying before it starts and I have to apply some gas because it seems like doesn't have power now once is on for a while when you try to start the car again no problem at all, now I was driving back home and I experienced while stopped in front the gate at my condo that my car died I try starting and started but went to parked run it for a little bit on iddle and sound it like when you put cheap gas on a nice car like the pistons are fighting to stay working then stalled on me again. Can that be fuel filter related??? Please help !!!

Emily Ortiz

Well I had a Honda Civic 99 dx manual i have now a Honda Civic 2001 lx manual stock and the car is on and I no gears my room rest at 800 wen I light tap on the gas it shoots to 2000 3000 and it wil start moving up and down it bye it self

Srdwng

Alright I am new to posting but I am beating my head against the wall here. I bought an 02 civic about 2 weeks ago and the guy told me it has an 03 civic engine in it. Which ok I asked if it was the same engine size and everything. He said yeah but it has an issue with the idle jumping from 1200 to 2400 rpms. Thought an easy fix replaced air filter, pvc valve, cleaned the iacv, and checked voltage to the valve and map sensor and tps. Everything was good with voltage .Still jumping and it is just embarrassing when driving in traffic. Any ideas out there .

Slumpertcivic

Srdwng

how do I do the idle re learn? And no change with the a.c. on or off.

Srdwng

I did the idle relearn and no change. What else could make the idle jump when it is starting to warm up? Any ideas out there? I would appreciate it.

NDNV

Any vacuum leaks? Is the CEL on or any OBDII codes stored?

2002 Civic

Did not see it here so will add. Also make sure your battery and alternator are good. Engine off battery should be 12.5 to 12.6 volts. Engine running should be between 13.5 to 15 volts. I had and engine surge problem and codes for several things that checked out ok.....I charged the battery and had it tested.....its now good......replaced the alternator and at idle its reading 14.3 volts.....no more engine surge and no more codes have come back. Hope this also helps some with your problems.

Srdwng

Changed the alternator today just because and no change noticed the a.c. compressor pulley was grinding so I bought a bypass belt for it. Even though the engine sounds better without the grinding noise of that pulley it still surges. Two codes keep coming up. 505 and 1505 .Have cleaned the idle air control valve and replaced the pcv valve. When those codes come up my car will idle rough at about 1500 rpms .And run like crap .And my civic is a manual if that helps .I am out of ideas.

Srdwng

Changed the alternator today just because and no change noticed the a.c. compressor pulley was grinding so I bought a bypass belt for it. Even though the engine sounds better without the grinding noise of that pulley it still surges. Two codes keep coming up. 505 and 1505 .Have cleaned the idle air control valve and replaced the pcv valve. When those codes come up my car will idle rough at about 1500 rpms .And run like crap .And my civic is a manual if that helps .I am out of ideas.

NDNV

See the attached for the troubleshooting P0505 for an Odyssey which should be very similar...

Srdwng

The idle relearn procedures are not helping and I am starting to wonder if there is something wrong with the throttle body. And I am about to replace all the vacuum lines. Wierd thing is that when the car is cold it runs good but the warmer it gets the worse it gets. Any more ideas? I would appreciate it.

Damrons001

Ok so I just replaced my headgasket and water pump in my 2001 Honda civic LX. And it runs weird, the acceleration sticks, and sometimes it accelerates on its own and I can't get it to slow down or stop. In a few cases I had to slow it down a little bit so I can turn it off, put it in neutral and stop. Then I'd turn it on and the rpms would jump to about 4000 and then it would go back to normal. And after about 20 minutes of driving it the engine ligiht came on. And I think one of my belts are rubbin too cause I smell burning rubber. I need help I put alot of work into this...im so tired of working on it

Mannjovin

I'm having the exact same issue as Srdwng has this bčen resolved yet any advice or guidance would be greatly appreciated.

mililani

Sorry to bump an old thread. I have a 2001 Civic with 200k+ miles on it. In the past year, I've been having idling issues. A couple of times, the car started and promptly died. I had to do the ECU relearn idle trick to get the car to start and stay started (basically, floor the throttle with RPM's past 3k for 5 minutes). I thought it was the electronics, since the battery was old. Changed that out, and it seemed to be ok but it would idle rough and stutter at stops after car was warmed up. Just recently, the car completely stalled while driving. Luckily, I was just pulling up to my driveway. Freaked me out. Anyways, today, I cleaned out the throttle body and IACV sensor. The throttle body was fine, but the IACV sensor was dirty. I took it off and cleaned it completely out. You should also remove the plastic motor assembly and clean down the shaft with throttle body cleaner. I put everything back on, and damn, the car idles great now!

I found some YouTube videos to be of great help. But, I'm hoping to work on getting my fuel efficiency back up in the next year. I used to get 44 mpg on the hwy. Now, it's something like 37.

Kaleb Ehrbar

Hey I have a 1997 Honda Civic Ex with a d14 motor been having problem with engine sputter when I’m in idle Starts fine and idles fine until I turn ac on then will sputter but immediately when I turn off the ac it idles normal any suggestions?