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I decided to replace the radiator and I found this crack on the old on. I am glad that I replaced it. I pressure tested the system with the new radiator and it was good.
Hi, new to the forum and joined up specifically to find some clues to this problem. Mine is a bit different though, from cold start and idling in the morning the gauge goes up but the air flow doesn't get beyond just lower than lukewarm. When I start out, the air gets gradually warmer until it gets up to what I'd say is frost clearing temperature. Every morning now, I check the coolant levels and they remain constant, so I'm not losing fluid.
Hi, new to the forum and joined up specifically to find some clues to this problem. Mine is a bit different though, from cold start and idling in the morning the gauge goes up but the air flow doesn't get beyond just lower than lukewarm. When I start out, the air gets gradually warmer until it gets up to what I'd say is frost clearing temperature. Every morning now, I check the coolant levels and they remain constant, so I'm not losing fluid.
With engine fully warmed up and heater running at max temp and high fan speed, feel the temperature of each heater hose at the firewall.
Is just one screaming hot? Both screaming hot? Neither? (this is the clue about whether or not, and how much heat is being removed via the heater system)
Water valve is not fully open? Air mix door/servo not moving correctly?
I had these symptoms when my head gasket failed. Suggest you do the proper testing for a head gasket breach in your troubleshooting too.
After this repair, full heat from the vents at optimal engine temps (halfway mark on the temp gauge in the dash) will cause discomfort if you hold your hand to the vent after several seconds. In other words, very noticeable hot cabin heat.
12-15-2018
