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Hello - new to the forum here. Just got my first Honda about a month ago. After about three weeks the engine light came on and advance auto said it was throwing a p0700 and p0741 codes. I did the whole drain and fill of the transmission fluid and went the extra step of doing it four times. I also replaced the single TCC solenoid that sits on top. The p0700 code went away but it was still throwing the p0741 code. So, I replaced the clutch pressure control solenoid that is located toward the front lower passenger side. The engine light came on again after driving it a bit. I haven't gone to see what code it's throwing (see if it's the p0741 or possibly other now). I do have a shift solenoid (located lower passenger side) ordered. Hoping someone may be able to give me some other options, tips, etc...
I read on one site that the ECT coolant sensor can throw the p0741 code. Doesn't make sense to me, but... Maybe someone else knows different?
Thanks ahead of time for anyone willing to give me some insights on this...
P0741 is only defined as 'a problem' in the lock up control system.
Basically the computer detected the TCC is slipping when it should be 100% locked, for some reason.
I have not heard of a coolant temp sensor causing it though.
As far as if anything else goes wrong inside the trans that could cause it, I couldn't tell you.
A good service manual should lead you to doing things like fluid pressure checks and whatnot as part of diag for the code.
Generally speaking a trans replacement (with a good reman unit) would fix the code.
Unfortunately, this trans could have the internal screen blocked with debris and restricting ATF flow pressure to the point of the trans failing.
The P0740 code for my 4-speed auto Odyssey was considered the death code...
As far as if anything else goes wrong inside the trans that could cause it, I couldn't tell you.
A good service manual should lead you to doing things like fluid pressure checks and whatnot as part of diag for the code.
Generally speaking a trans replacement (with a good reman unit) would fix the code.
The car has about 155,000 on it. Service wise I'm not real sure as I got it used. It seems to of been kept up about average. I can say when I drained the tranny fluid the first time the magnet on the drain plug was cover with dark gunk. I clean it, re-filled, ran around a bit, and when I drained it a second time the magnet on the drain plug only had a little bit on it. From that point forward for the next drain/fills the drain plug magnet had nothing on it.
I got the shift solenoid in, but after putting it on the car wouldn't go into reverse (it was a remanufactured solenoid), so I put the old one back on and sent the new one back and waiting on another one. I did a 3 quart drain and fill for that procedure and the drain plug magnet still looked clean. I notice when I slow down now, while around 10 to 30 mile range, kind of putting around, speeding up slowing down, when I give it gas it kicks back in kind of hard...
The new solenoid, to replace the bad one I received above, came in. This one seems to be good, but the transmission is still doing the same thing. It seems when it hits about 45 or 50 the light come on. Also, at slower speeds if you let up on the gas and slow down a bit and then give it gas the transmission is kicking back in kind of hard. Thanks for the inputs and info. Short of a transmission shop or just replacing the transmission I'm not sure what to do/check next...
May as well get estimates on your transmission replacement options
Well, got my car back from a local transmission guy. He replaced the torque converter with a new (not used) one, put new tranny fluid in, replaced a bad wheel stud, and put new front brake pads on for $730. He used to own a transmission shop, but now he pretty much works from his home or will even come to you (house calls type thing).
I do have another question, which may or may not belong in it's own thread. I need to replace the front drivers side CV axle. Does anyone happen to know if I can use ABS CV axles on these 2004 Honda Civic LX 4 door sedan models, even if the car isn't equipped with ABS brakes? I know it can be done on other cars, but I've also been told some cars you can't as there just isn't enough room, etc. I can get both fronts as a set for about 20 bucks more than a single, but they are ABS. I haven't really looked at the brakes yet myself, but the dash has no ABS light that I've seen, so I assume my car doesn't have ABS, unless the light is out and I haven't notice the dead spot on the dash. We haven't had the car real long and the wife drives it mostly (like out of town today), so please forgive my ignorance on whether the car has ABS or not...
Abs axle should work fine
Does it have one of these?
big box with brake lines in left front of engine bay
Hello and thanks for the quick reply and info. I'll have to double check when the wife gets home with the car, but if memory serves me correctly the car doesn't have a distribution box as shown in the above picture.
UPDATE: It doesn't have the distribution box shown above. I'm thinking of ordering one of these from ebay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Front-Drive...8AAOSw-jhUEdlE
or https://www.ebay.com/itm/FRONT-Drive...sAAOSwTO9aA4ZY
Last edited by kevoid; 05-17-2018 at 08:01 PM.
Reason: update
I wanted to update my transmission issue. The code and issues came back in a short time and the same guy ended up rebuilding my transmission. He took the price of the Torque Converter job of the rebuild job. He also warranted the torque converter so he could another new one it. He didn't want to use the new one he'd just put in. So, 1,500 total on the transmission job and it seems to have been working fine for a while now. Oh, and one of the NEW solenoids I put on was actually bad and I had to return it and put the original OEM solenoid back on. He said something about it not being set correctly from the factory and was letting too much pressure thru...
05-04-2018
