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HG Test - Pressurizing Cylinders - What could I do wrong?

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Old 06-26-2018
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HG Test - Pressurizing Cylinders - What could I do wrong?

I'm back again, 2001 civic EX, had a overheat which then wouldn't stop burping using a no spill funnel so I ended up replacing the engine (JDM D17A).
https://www.civicforums.com/forums/3...se-bucket.html
Now after replacing the engine, all hose, bypassing the heater core and idle valve, the car still won't stop burping. Only the radiator is original. I haven't driven the car, just burping it after all the repairs.

I thought I had another bad HG. I pressurized each cylinder at TDC with 150 PSIG as show here and didn't get any hits, no bubbles, no increase in fluid amount.
https://www.civicforums.com/forums/3...ml#post4537185

I was sure that I was at TDC, as I checked the valves, what else could I have done wrong to perform this test incorrectly?

I am using a residential air compressor, max tool output 175 PSIG, I'm using 1/4 hose about 15 feet flexible...maybe 1/4 inch hose is too much of a pressure drop?

I could try the test again at 175.

Basically when I'm burping the car no matter how long I run it each time the thermostat opens I get a ping pong ball sized bubble. Is it possible this is just water vapor? I've never used the no spill funnel on a known good car so I don't know whats normal. It is about 110 with the car in the sun when I'm burping it on a incline.

Just for fun I will pressure test the radiator.

Thanks again.
Old 06-26-2018
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Re: HG Test - Pressurizing Cylinders - What could I do wrong?

pull the spark plug ( yes remove the actual spark plug so,there is no compression) for #2 cylinder and do your test that creates a ping pong ball air pocket. It will run rough but it will run.

If air bubble, blow out number 2 of residual gas and repeat on #3.

You will be able to see what if any cylinder is actually leaking if the air stops when the affected cyclinder spark plug is removed.

Any leaking coolant would not cause a bubble while you have that funnel on, and while it’s common to all air to take a while to work it’s way out, yo should notice less and less in the system, not a consistent amount unless more is being added.

Last edited by Slumpertcivic; 06-26-2018 at 04:47 PM.
Old 06-26-2018
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Re: HG Test - Pressurizing Cylinders - What could I do wrong?

so I ended up replacing the engine (JDM D17A).
It probably needs a head gasket too.








I was sure that I was at TDC, as I checked the valves, what else could I have done wrong to perform this test incorrectly?
Did you remove the Schrader valve from the end of the whip before screwing it into the engine? If you didn't remove that, then all air pressure you thought was going into the cylinder just stopped at that Schrader valve.





So with Schrader removed.....

You have to make sure the cylinder you are pressurizing is actually on TDC, not overlap. You should be able to hear a big difference when you connect air to a cylinder with valves completely closed (TDC firing) vs. one with valves slightly open (TDC overlap).
Old 06-26-2018
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Re: HG Test - Pressurizing Cylinders - What could I do wrong?

Originally Posted by Slumpertcivic
pull the spark plug ( yes remove the actual spark plug so,there is no compression) for #2 cylinder and do your test that creates a ping pong ball air pocket. It will run rough but it will run.

If air bubble, blow out number 2 of residual gas and repeat on #3.

You will be able to see what if any cylinder is actually leaking if the air stops when the affected cyclinder spark plug is removed.

Any leaking coolant would not cause a bubble while you have that funnel on, and while it’s common to all air to take a while to work it’s way out, yo should notice less and less in the system, not a consistent amount unless more is being added.
I get where your going there, thanks.

It does take about 20 min at idle before the tstat opens...won't be a issue running that long with a plug?
Old 06-26-2018
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Re: HG Test - Pressurizing Cylinders - What could I do wrong?

Originally Posted by ezone
It probably needs a head gasket too.







Did you remove the Schrader valve from the end of the whip before screwing it into the engine? If you didn't remove that, then all air pressure you thought was going into the cylinder just stopped at that Schrader valve.





So with Schrader removed.....

You have to make sure the cylinder you are pressurizing is actually on TDC, not overlap. You should be able to hear a big difference when you connect air to a cylinder with valves completely closed (TDC firing) vs. one with valves slightly open (TDC overlap).
I hear you, the simplest explanation and all that. Reason for my post is this would be the 3rd head gasket I've condemned using the no spill funnel and burp test, starting to question my method.

I did remove the schrader so it pressurized the cylinder, I'm in residential HVAC so I'm familiar with scharders and pressure tests more then nuts and bolts.

Had the valve cover off so I was using the timing marks and firing order to determine TDC. I'll redo the test tomorrow with 175 and misalign one to see how it sounds, the noise it was making at the time was just like filling up a empty can with freon, air didn't appear to be escaping out the intake or exhaust.
Old 06-26-2018
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Re: HG Test - Pressurizing Cylinders - What could I do wrong?

It does take about 20 min at idle before the tstat opens...won't be a issue running that long with a plug?
Start with a HOT engine.
using the no spill funnel and burp test, starting to question my method.
You've got to look at how low the top of the radiator is in relation to the water neck on the engine, and the coolant chamber inside the cylinder head... there can be a huge air pocket trapped in the engine and head that's higher than the radiator. That's why we usually say to raise the front of the car as high as possible and hold the RPM up to try to push those pockets on through to the radiator


......and the tip of the funnel adapter sticks down into the radiator a ways, sometimes there is lots of room to trap air between the bottom of the funnel and the top of the radiator.
I shaved the end of my funnel adapter flush with the rubber ring to reduce the issues with trapped air pockets there.

If I see the endless stream of bubbles in the funnel on a running engine, I don't like to make a final conclusion on that alone. I will then move to the other test, pressurizing individual cylinders and looking for coolant level to rise in the funnel. It's only 10 extra minutes to be absolutely positive LOL

I have an 04 on the hoist right now with the head off, was leaking on cylinders 2 and 3. Head was not warped. It will get a head gasket in the morning.
Old 06-28-2018
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Re: HG Test - Pressurizing Cylinders - What could I do wrong?

FWIW.

What Ezone said. Start with a hot engine.
My leak would not reveal itself when cold.
Old 06-29-2018
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Re: HG Test - Pressurizing Cylinders - What could I do wrong?

If I ever install an engine I will install a new head gasket on it prior. Too many threads on various sites where people have head gasket troubles when they install an engine. LKQ, JDM sellers, etc...do not know an engine's history.
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