Mad Dog Tannen

I finally got the cooling fans to switch on!

After firing the parts cannon at my problem lol...
fan switch
relay
fuse
thermostat (I argue that this one is regular maintenance that it needed anyways)

I finally figured out (mainly by process of elimination) that my radiator was clogged and no hot water was getting to the fan switch to active the fan.

So today, I got my all aluminum radiator and installed it...



I will have installed pics tomorrow.

MassCivic

Changed oil and fixed leaky drain plug with a metal/rubber washer (thanks ezone).
Got my new set of tires mounted and balanced.

Stupid sway bar clunk has returned.

And I was foiled in my rear trailing arm bushing attempt #2 by a frozen shock mounting bolt.

maxtierney

iTrader: (5)

Installed my roof and duckbill spoilers.

maxtierney

iTrader: (5)

Radio Delete. Block Off Plate. 2005 SE Climate Controls, Bezel and Driver/Passenger Side Vents. Replaced the 2002 Silver Driver/Passenger Side Window Switch Plates with 2005 Black Plates.

xRiCeBoYx

iTrader: (22)

Looks like you made room for some shiny gauges, Nap.. lol

maxtierney

iTrader: (5)

You read my mind. Not sure if I'm going A-Pillar or the empty space yet. A/F Ratio and Temp Gauges, for sure.

xRiCeBoYx

iTrader: (22)

Either that or a carputer strictly for telemetry purposes

Poopies

iTrader: (4)

Due to a combination of new job, Google Authenticator issues and Fallout 4, it's been a while since I was here! It's good to be back! I got tired of smelling coolant and seeing oil on my engine so over the weekend I did a coolant flush and burp, replaced the hoses, reservoir and thermo (all OEM), cleaned the EGR and replaced my old leaky cam plug. Hopefully the leaking has ceased. Now I have to figure out what's wrong with my radiator fan sensor. The fans work but they only kick in by themselves when the engine coolant reads 97 Celsius, as opposed to the normal low 90s number I've been seeing for three years. Weird.

Phillip123

Had a pretty long ride today. Almost 100 miles

maxtierney

iTrader: (5)

Lots of stuff. Too little time, to post anything.

New Wheels/Tires. EDM Tails and Mirrors. Changed all interior, most exterior bulbs to LEDs. Recaro Bolster Pad Covers. New Switches and Coin Slot. MTF Drain and Fill.

Poopies

iTrader: (4)

Damn, your car looks good! Out of curiosity, what LED turn signals are you using?

maxtierney

iTrader: (5)

Thanks. Still a work in progress.

These are the LEDs I ordered from Amazon. Coming in this week. I need amber LEDs for my clear lens EDM tail lights. Still researching 7443 LEDs.

http://store.ijdmtoy.com/No-Resistor...0-02x-cree.htm

Poopies

iTrader: (4)

They look bright! I ordered some from Super Bright LEDs, but the front ones aren't nearly as bright as I'd like. Eh.

maxtierney

iTrader: (5)

OMG, THEY'RE BRIGHT. Turn signals are brighter than my brake lights, haha.

Good to know / sorry to hear. The search continues.

maxtierney

iTrader: (5)

EDM Mirrors painted / installed. Oil change @ Honda, before my road trip to San Francisco.

Stock 99

I took my Civic to my mechanic today for the first time since I bought it 6 years ago for a full safety inspection. It's 17 years old now and almost entirely stock original with 235 000km and it do not need any work! Talk about Japanese build quality... still finding it hard to believe. My mechanic also did not charge me anything for the inspection.... so I went directly to his favorite pub and laid down $100 tab for him.



Civics rule!

ezone

I hope you let the guy know to expect that his tab is paid for the next week (or 2 days LOL), that's a helluva nice thing for a guy to look forward to after work.
(SOME bartenders here in my burg couldn't be trusted like that)


I used to carry my scanners and a pretty complete lockout kit in the trunk of my car, got a lot of free drinks that way.

Stock 99

10 years ago he called me at home on Christmas to tell me how to repair the fuel line on my Toyota so I could get through the holidays. When I bought the Civic 6 years ago he replaced the timing belt on it for $150. Today he charged me nothing even though he had time and shop space spent on my car... both of which he could have been using to make money. He could have told me something needed replacing and charged me a couple hundred bucks. Bottom line is he's a super solid guy and it's pretty much the least I can do to pay his tab for a night or 2. The bar manager I talked to today has been a close friend of his for 20 years now so I know he'll get it.

He was also a Honda mechanic for a decade before starting his own shop.

maxtierney

iTrader: (5)

Ordered a set if 15mm spacers and a replacement MCU. Noticed the brake light was on and the A/C, dome light and power door locks weren't working - shortly after picking up my car from the dealer (free lifetime oil change). Part comes in later today. Unfortunately, I was supposed to drive up to San Francisco yesterday.

At least the weather's nice in San Diego. Gives me something to be happy about.

CLudEx

7th Gen:
So, I bought the car a week and a half ago. Went through over a quart of oil in that time. Threw a CEL P1259 code. It had oil all down the front and back of the block and transmission.
Today, I Pulled and changed the gaskets on the VTEC solenoind, EGR, Cam Plug, and put in a PCV valve.
There was an insect wing (really big wing) between the block and the solenoind gasket. I don't think that is on the parts list, but there it was.

sdaidoji

iTrader: (1)

Finally got a chance to pull the other car out (needing hood hinges... Fender is being a pain to remove to get to them...) and put the civic on the bay.

Had it since Thanksgiving, but had not finished the other car, so was in the backburner. (Hey, it was almost half price at THmortorsports, why not?

Just 7 bolts, but don't forget that the exhaust bolts are usually a pain, rusted to kingdom come... PB Blast!!!

The OE piece is really pretty good, I see, but the DC sports have a few things that seem better. Not just slightly bigger piping, but where all tubes conjoin is much better designed for flow. And the lower bolts have threads, so easier to put together. However, it's easier to do them from under the car.

OE with heat shield


OE without heat shield:


After - DC sports header


Side-by-side




LOL, yeah, they have different center of gravity



This is OE, where tubes conjoin


This is DC sports


Just for the fun, the O2 sensor

MassCivic

Gave her an oil change and new dose of LC20, pulled and thoroughly cleaned the PCV, some engine bay cleaning, lubed bushings and cleaned brakes.

It's nice to finally have warm enough weather to work on the car again!

sdaidoji

iTrader: (1)

Tie rod: Done!
went easier than thought... the goners were the cup and the ball, they separated... So no spinning nut, and it came out easy with the right removal tool. All in all, 15 -20 minute job.
Nice Moog piece, with greasing zerks

Offending piece - remove cotter pin, remove the bottom nut. Loosen the locking nut (they have opposing threads - check which direction to turn, depending on side, before trying to turn that nut!!!) and then proceed to pull the darned end using a proper tool or a good placed BFH wack!


Offending piece: Out!


New Moog part with zerk fitting for greasing: In!


Yes, I know, the year and a half in Canada was NOT nice to the shocks/springs... I will need to shot peen the springs and repaint, the shocks might be approaching its life, so OK.

Darn, was planning on checking the alignment, maybe change the brake rotors/pads (potentially warped) and removing the anti-roll bar for good (no need in MacPherson FWD), but there's a storm brewing close (Miata hood is not secured to stay out of garage in the wind...)

Hopefully the toe is not too off... Forgot to get paint, so used a perm marker, seemed to be on the right thread.

A drive on the 'hood indicates no issues spare slight wheel offset, so... it might be toe out, slightly... Oh, well, hope tires live through tomorrow....

Dooner

Replaced cam plug, removed and cleaned EGR valve, and installed new wipers to dry rot in the hot sun.

sdaidoji

iTrader: (1)

Drat, trying to remember how I did remove the front anti roll bar... I don't remember having removed the down pipe... twist it like there's no tomorrow!!!

Ah, OK, move to the back of the car. Let's try that if I can pass it through the cat

Edit: no need to pass over the cat on the EX. Just put bar at the cat, turn one side of bar towards the back, twist and claaang, it was off.

Edit 2: passenger side tie rod looked like only boot torn, did not seem when using a lever that it needed changing, but boy, it was loose... might need consider ball joint sometime soon...

Front anti roll bar off! No need for it on our cars anyway!

Checking alignment now (slightly non flat surface, will need be careful with numbers...)

But first, smoke break!

sdaidoji

iTrader: (1)

OK, finished!

PS: EX exhaust anti roll bar - put closer to the cat, turn one end of the bar to the back, twist and it's off!



Tie rod, passenger - torn boot, but after removal, it was really loose...


Always use the right tool - 40 seconds and it was off!


Alignment rig - love my Flyin' Miata hub stands!




Run around the 'hood indicate no issues, tomorrow will be test

Vacuum, clean garage, now ready to dismantle miata 2 for the hood.

Phillip123

Shined it bright like a diamond!

MassCivic

Hey man, car looks awesome! I'm getting the same header and was wondering if you needed to extend the harness on the primary o2 sensor?

SidtheSloth

I did a compression test and put a new air filter on my 6th gen si

CLudEx

Replaced the front motor mount with Energy Suspension Engine Mount Polyurethane inserts.
While cranking the car up, my spare jack (rated for a quarter ton truck) decides to break, Jamming the lower radiator support upwards, shoving the upper radiator support up 2 inches. Not a happy camper at that little stunt... Beat that bad boy into submission with a 4x4 & a BFH.
THIS is why we can't have nice things...! Shoddy domestic jack, is my guess.