A/C Issue
#1
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Having trouble figuring out what can be causing my A/C issue.
2010 Civic
90,000 Miles
Low Pressure Reading: 90psi
High Pressure Reading 90psi +- 5
Also, condenser clutch does not engage.
Any ideas?
2010 Civic
90,000 Miles
Low Pressure Reading: 90psi
High Pressure Reading 90psi +- 5
Also, condenser clutch does not engage.
Any ideas?
#2
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: A/C Issue
Compressor is not engaging.
DO BOTH RADIATOR FANS still RUN WHEN THE AC IS SUPPOSED TO BE RUNNING?
Check clutch relay
Ohm check the clutch coil
Power check the clutch coil
Check clutch air gap
DO BOTH RADIATOR FANS still RUN WHEN THE AC IS SUPPOSED TO BE RUNNING?
Check clutch relay
Ohm check the clutch coil
Power check the clutch coil
Check clutch air gap
#3
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ezone,
I got a 08 civic. I think my ac coil is bad. To test it, should I power up the center pin on the 3 pin connector sitting on top of alternator?
If thats the case and I need a new coil, I am planing to replace it on the car. Is it possible to open the two top bolts of the compressor without removing the alternator?
Also, I assume it is better to get a complete clutch set and replace all 3 components rather than only the coil, do you agree?
Thank you
I got a 08 civic. I think my ac coil is bad. To test it, should I power up the center pin on the 3 pin connector sitting on top of alternator?
If thats the case and I need a new coil, I am planing to replace it on the car. Is it possible to open the two top bolts of the compressor without removing the alternator?
Also, I assume it is better to get a complete clutch set and replace all 3 components rather than only the coil, do you agree?
Thank you
#4
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: A/C Issue
To test it,
should I power up the center pin on the 3 pin connector sitting on top of alternator?
If the air gap is too large the clutch will not pull in even with a good coil.
Is it possible to open the two top bolts of the compressor without removing the alternator?
Also, I assume it is better to get a complete clutch set and replace all 3 components rather than only the coil, do you agree?
Also, I assume it is better to get a complete clutch set and replace all 3 components rather than only the coil, do you agree?
If the coil needs replaced I go ahead and replace the complete clutch set.
#5
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(08 Civic, CP Manual)
I think my Coil is bad.. so I am changing the clutch system. I can not get the ac pulley off. It moves less than an inch , but can not get it to come out. Is it possible to open bolt number 1 in attached photos so I can lower the frame (?) maybe an inch so I can put a puller on that pulley?
I think my Coil is bad.. so I am changing the clutch system. I can not get the ac pulley off. It moves less than an inch , but can not get it to come out. Is it possible to open bolt number 1 in attached photos so I can lower the frame (?) maybe an inch so I can put a puller on that pulley?
#6
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: A/C Issue
(08 Civic, CP Manual)
I think my Coil is bad.. so I am changing the clutch system. I can not get the ac pulley off. It moves less than an inch , but can not get it to come out. Is it possible to open bolt number 1 in attached photos so I can lower the frame (?) maybe an inch so I can put a puller on that pulley?
I think my Coil is bad.. so I am changing the clutch system. I can not get the ac pulley off. It moves less than an inch , but can not get it to come out. Is it possible to open bolt number 1 in attached photos so I can lower the frame (?) maybe an inch so I can put a puller on that pulley?
No the subframe(pictured) will not drop unless you remove or loosen all of the bolts all the way around it.
I may (depending on circumstances) disassemble the engine mount from the passengers side so the entire drivetrain can drop an inch or two, then use a pry bar to gently push the engine toward the drivers side to gain the necessary clearance to slip everything off the front of the compressor.
Did you find the thread about an 8th gen 1.8L, may have been regarding a 2008 model....where I posted a ton of pictures, replacing the compressor clutch while the compressor is still bolted in place?
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ezone,
I did look but I was not able to fine the post you mentioned.
I have been playing with that pulley for the past 2 days and best I could do is move it less than 1/2 " just by using my hand from below.
The other option would be moving the cooling fan and alternator to gain a bit of access, maybe then I could turn the compressor enough to put a puller on the pulley. so far I tried a couple of different pullers, and I purchased a simple gear puller with long arms today to try it soon as I get home, maybe it works.
Pushing the eng. to the side might be out of my league,,lol
I did look but I was not able to fine the post you mentioned.
I have been playing with that pulley for the past 2 days and best I could do is move it less than 1/2 " just by using my hand from below.
The other option would be moving the cooling fan and alternator to gain a bit of access, maybe then I could turn the compressor enough to put a puller on the pulley. so far I tried a couple of different pullers, and I purchased a simple gear puller with long arms today to try it soon as I get home, maybe it works.
Pushing the eng. to the side might be out of my league,,lol
#8
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: A/C Issue
https://www.civicforums.com/forums/1...charged-2.html
Here's the thread with many pics, it's several pages long
The engine needs to go sideways about 5mm to gain enough room to take the pulley out, AFTER it's free from the snout of the compressor.
Here's the thread with many pics, it's several pages long
The engine needs to go sideways about 5mm to gain enough room to take the pulley out, AFTER it's free from the snout of the compressor.
#9
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ezone,
You have been very helpful and thank you for your help. A few things that might help others:
1- I had a very hard time with the pulley. So, finally in order to get it out, I used a long arm cheap gear puller and I had to bent a part (the part that windshield fluid reservoir bottom bolts to) to get the puller somehow strait on the pulley to get it out.
2- I had to use the puller for the coil as well.
3- I was not able to get the coil snap ring with 3 different types of snap ring pliers and finally i used a large and a small screw driver and removed it in an un-civilized manner!!!
*****with my big fat hands, I am unable to get the ground screw back on the compressor. So, I am making an extension to the ground wire coming from the coil and want to move it to one of the 4 bolts holding the compressor (I have opened the 4 bolts only to re position it). Do you have a better suggestion for the ground location?
Thank you again
You have been very helpful and thank you for your help. A few things that might help others:
1- I had a very hard time with the pulley. So, finally in order to get it out, I used a long arm cheap gear puller and I had to bent a part (the part that windshield fluid reservoir bottom bolts to) to get the puller somehow strait on the pulley to get it out.
2- I had to use the puller for the coil as well.
3- I was not able to get the coil snap ring with 3 different types of snap ring pliers and finally i used a large and a small screw driver and removed it in an un-civilized manner!!!
*****with my big fat hands, I am unable to get the ground screw back on the compressor. So, I am making an extension to the ground wire coming from the coil and want to move it to one of the 4 bolts holding the compressor (I have opened the 4 bolts only to re position it). Do you have a better suggestion for the ground location?
Thank you again
#10
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: A/C Issue
Do you have a better suggestion for the ground location?
There are several (what I might consider non-critical) 6mm bolts (10mm socket) on the front side of the engine you could use as a ground point such as the bolts for the small shields around the oil pressure switch and crank sensor.... You could even run a ground wire all the way to the battery if you so desired.
I'd probably want to make it really convenient (easy) if it were my own car.
#11
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Off the top of my head, I think a basic wiring eyelet terminal may want to squish and spread out as you tighten the compressor mounting bolt.
There are several (what I might consider non-critical) 6mm bolts (10mm socket) on the front side of the engine you could use as a ground point such as the bolts for the small shields around the oil pressure switch and crank sensor.... You could even run a ground wire all the way to the battery if you so desired.
I'd probably want to make it really convenient (easy) if it were my own car.
There are several (what I might consider non-critical) 6mm bolts (10mm socket) on the front side of the engine you could use as a ground point such as the bolts for the small shields around the oil pressure switch and crank sensor.... You could even run a ground wire all the way to the battery if you so desired.
I'd probably want to make it really convenient (easy) if it were my own car.
I had too much air, had to reduce the air by removing a shims, and now it is working very well and blowing colder air than my 9th gen Civic.
Thanks again
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