unorthodox crank pulley
12-08-2004
#62
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Well its definitely not gonna be bigger than stock. UR claims they under-drive very little so the difference in sizes is negligible. UR is more concerned with weight loss than under-drive.
12-08-2004
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Originally Posted by ricanswt
The instructions are very precise and take a lot of caution for you lol. they are almost overly cautious, but the caution is worth it.
You can reach the alternator from the bottom of the car, that is how i did mine.
Cool. Did you use a damper puller to get it off. Someone told me autozone rents them. What are the Torque specs for each pulley? Are they indicated in the directions? I did some research and from what I found you want to put a little anti seize and motor oil on the inside with your finger correct?
How many miles have you had yours on?
Thanks I forgot the other question I had
. Maybe I'll remember later. Last edited by Redline04; 12-08-2004 at 04:31 PM.
12-08-2004
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Rep Power: 0 do whatever you like. I swapped my stock airboxes for a cold air intake, the car drives the same, idles right, sounds good in the higher rpms, the stock airboxes were really heavy, and no doubt were probably much better for my engine in the long run, but to each his own. the stock airboxes took up about half of the engine bay, the cold air takes up minimal space, again, do what you like. maybe keep the stock one in the trunk in case the aluminum one breaks.
12-08-2004
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Originally Posted by Redline04
Cool. Did you use a damper puller to get it off. Someone told me autozone rents them. What are the Torque specs for each pulley? Are they indicated in the directions? I did some research and from what I found you want to put a little anti seize and motor oil on the inside with your finger correct?
How many miles have you had yours on?
Thanks I forgot the other question I had . Maybe I'll remember later.
How many miles have you had yours on?
Thanks I forgot the other question I had
. Maybe I'll remember later.Torque specs are indicated in the directions
I just put anti-seize, no motor oil.
I have had about 1500 miles on it so far.
Last edited by ricanswt; 12-08-2004 at 06:44 PM.
12-08-2004
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Rep Power: 277 hey here's a review i found. they weren't installed on a D17 but it still is an example if they are worth it. http://www.pe-tuning.com/yabbse/index.php?topic=329.0
12-08-2004
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Originally Posted by ricanswt
I didn't need the damper (Harmonic Balancer) puller. A damper puller is for full size external dampers which our cars do not have. A full size damper would be about the same size as our crank but it doesn't have a belt on it.
Torque specs are indicated in the directions
I just put anti-seize, no motor oil.
I have had about 1500 miles on it so far.
Torque specs are indicated in the directions
I just put anti-seize, no motor oil.
I have had about 1500 miles on it so far.
so it just slides right off then with no trouble. How much do belts usually go for. Any reccomendations on a certain brand?
12-08-2004
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Rep Power: 0 actually i had a hard time getting the stock pulley off, but the UR one did pretty much slide on. I really don't know much on belts so i cant really recommend a brand. But if the sounds i have been hearing lately from the belts prove not to be a tension problem, then I can tell you to stay away from the brand i used. I will know tomorrow after i install my rims woot!
12-09-2004
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Rep Power: 0 You know all of this stuff about oil pump failures can be caused by something as simple as using the wrong grade oil! 5W-20 is what is reccomended for the d17's! If you install new pulleys use what is reccomended! During the hotter months you can actually use an even thinner oil! Dont use 5-30 or 10-30! Using the wrong grade oil with aftermarket pulleys installed and then revving your engine repeatedly can fry your oil pump! Also if your not using a genuine honda oil filter which has a "drainback" feature which sends the oil into the oil catch pan and doesnt keep it in the filter can also cause problems as well! If you take good care of your car and get the oil changed at most every 3500 miles and use the right oil grade and the honda oil filter, your oil pump wont give you any problems! Like posted previously, how come all of these problems seem to be coming from the internet. are you gonna believe someone who you dont know and lives in a different reigon of the country and has different driving habbits and drives a completely different car than you? Hopefully not! There are too many reasons for these problems to occur to blame it soley on the pulleys! Yes people have widdled their likely causes of problems down to the crank pulley and it may indeed have directly caused the malfunction but do you know what condition their engine was in before it malfunctioned or how well they kept it up?
12-09-2004
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"Is my crank pulley a harmonic/torsional/vibration damper or a harmonic balancer?"
People are getting their crank pulleys confused with the harmonic dampers found on some V6 / V8 engines. "Harmonic Balancer" is a term that is used loosely in the automotive industry. Technically, this type of device does not exist. The "balancer" part comes from engines that are externally balanced and have a counterweight cast into the damper, hence the merging of the two terms. None of the applications that we offer utilize a counterweight as part of the pulley as these engines are internally balanced.
The pulleys on most of the new import and smaller domestic engines have an elastomer (rubber ring) incorporated into the pulley that looks similar to a harmonic damper. The elastomer in the OEM pulley serves as an isolator, which is there to suppress natural vibration and noise from the engine itself, the A/C compressor, P/S pump, and alternator. This is what the manufacturers call NVH (Noise Vibration & Harshness) when referring to noticeable noise and vibration in the passenger compartment. It is important to note that in these applications, this elastomer is somewhat inadequate in size, as well as life span, to act as an effective torsional damper. If you look at the pulleys on some of the imports there is no rubber to be found at all. We have samples of these, mostly from Acura/Honda, the Nissan Altima, 1.8L Eclipse, 2.3L Fords, Chrysler 2.2L's, and 1.8L VW's, to mention a few. This is not to say that with our pulleys you will hear a ton of noise or feel more vibration from your engine compartment. Most who have installed and driven a vehicle with our pulleys will notice the engine actually feels smoother. This is a natural result of replacing the heavy steel crank pulley with a CNC-machined aluminum pulley. NVH is variable and unique to every car. NVH will increase with the installation of an aftermarket intake and/or exhaust, for example. Think of OEM intake systems in newer cars, they use baffles and resonators in the intake to quiet all the intake noise. Aftermarket intakes eliminate these resonators and create dramatic increases in engine noise from the throttle opening and closing. So to most tuners, certain types of NVH can make the driving experience more enjoyable.
The purpose of a traditional harmonic damper is to protect against crank failure from torsional movement. This is not necessary in most modern engines because of the many advances in engine design and materials. Factors such as stroke, displacement, inline, V configurations, power output, etc., do determine when and how these harmonics and torsional movements occur.
Again, there is a lot of internet hearsay about the pulleys. When engine problems occur, too often people are quick to blame the pulley first, rather than taking the time to look logically into why there was a problem. We hope that after reading this you will understand the crank pulleys better.
"Is my crank pulley a harmonic/torsional/vibration damper or a harmonic balancer?"
People are getting their crank pulleys confused with the harmonic dampers found on some V6 / V8 engines. "Harmonic Balancer" is a term that is used loosely in the automotive industry. Technically, this type of device does not exist. The "balancer" part comes from engines that are externally balanced and have a counterweight cast into the damper, hence the merging of the two terms. None of the applications that we offer utilize a counterweight as part of the pulley as these engines are internally balanced.
The pulleys on most of the new import and smaller domestic engines have an elastomer (rubber ring) incorporated into the pulley that looks similar to a harmonic damper. The elastomer in the OEM pulley serves as an isolator, which is there to suppress natural vibration and noise from the engine itself, the A/C compressor, P/S pump, and alternator. This is what the manufacturers call NVH (Noise Vibration & Harshness) when referring to noticeable noise and vibration in the passenger compartment. It is important to note that in these applications, this elastomer is somewhat inadequate in size, as well as life span, to act as an effective torsional damper. If you look at the pulleys on some of the imports there is no rubber to be found at all. We have samples of these, mostly from Acura/Honda, the Nissan Altima, 1.8L Eclipse, 2.3L Fords, Chrysler 2.2L's, and 1.8L VW's, to mention a few. This is not to say that with our pulleys you will hear a ton of noise or feel more vibration from your engine compartment. Most who have installed and driven a vehicle with our pulleys will notice the engine actually feels smoother. This is a natural result of replacing the heavy steel crank pulley with a CNC-machined aluminum pulley. NVH is variable and unique to every car. NVH will increase with the installation of an aftermarket intake and/or exhaust, for example. Think of OEM intake systems in newer cars, they use baffles and resonators in the intake to quiet all the intake noise. Aftermarket intakes eliminate these resonators and create dramatic increases in engine noise from the throttle opening and closing. So to most tuners, certain types of NVH can make the driving experience more enjoyable.
The purpose of a traditional harmonic damper is to protect against crank failure from torsional movement. This is not necessary in most modern engines because of the many advances in engine design and materials. Factors such as stroke, displacement, inline, V configurations, power output, etc., do determine when and how these harmonics and torsional movements occur.
Again, there is a lot of internet hearsay about the pulleys. When engine problems occur, too often people are quick to blame the pulley first, rather than taking the time to look logically into why there was a problem. We hope that after reading this you will understand the crank pulleys better.
12-09-2004
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Rep Power: 277 i'm not on either side on this debate but it seems like it's just not worth the trouble for 2-10hp. If it was more like 10-20hp gain then i'd be all over this like a fat kid at the candy store.
12-09-2004
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Originally Posted by GreatWhite02
Read this straight from Unorthodox!
"Is my crank pulley a harmonic/torsional/vibration damper or a harmonic balancer?"
People are getting their crank pulleys confused with the harmonic dampers found on some V6 / V8 engines. "Harmonic Balancer" is a term that is used loosely in the automotive industry. Technically, this type of device does not exist. The "balancer" part comes from engines that are externally balanced and have a counterweight cast into the damper, hence the merging of the two terms. None of the applications that we offer utilize a counterweight as part of the pulley as these engines are internally balanced.
The pulleys on most of the new import and smaller domestic engines have an elastomer (rubber ring) incorporated into the pulley that looks similar to a harmonic damper. The elastomer in the OEM pulley serves as an isolator, which is there to suppress natural vibration and noise from the engine itself, the A/C compressor, P/S pump, and alternator. This is what the manufacturers call NVH (Noise Vibration & Harshness) when referring to noticeable noise and vibration in the passenger compartment. It is important to note that in these applications, this elastomer is somewhat inadequate in size, as well as life span, to act as an effective torsional damper. If you look at the pulleys on some of the imports there is no rubber to be found at all. We have samples of these, mostly from Acura/Honda, the Nissan Altima, 1.8L Eclipse, 2.3L Fords, Chrysler 2.2L's, and 1.8L VW's, to mention a few. This is not to say that with our pulleys you will hear a ton of noise or feel more vibration from your engine compartment. Most who have installed and driven a vehicle with our pulleys will notice the engine actually feels smoother. This is a natural result of replacing the heavy steel crank pulley with a CNC-machined aluminum pulley. NVH is variable and unique to every car. NVH will increase with the installation of an aftermarket intake and/or exhaust, for example. Think of OEM intake systems in newer cars, they use baffles and resonators in the intake to quiet all the intake noise. Aftermarket intakes eliminate these resonators and create dramatic increases in engine noise from the throttle opening and closing. So to most tuners, certain types of NVH can make the driving experience more enjoyable.
The purpose of a traditional harmonic damper is to protect against crank failure from torsional movement. This is not necessary in most modern engines because of the many advances in engine design and materials. Factors such as stroke, displacement, inline, V configurations, power output, etc., do determine when and how these harmonics and torsional movements occur.
Again, there is a lot of internet hearsay about the pulleys. When engine problems occur, too often people are quick to blame the pulley first, rather than taking the time to look logically into why there was a problem. We hope that after reading this you will understand the crank pulleys better.
"Is my crank pulley a harmonic/torsional/vibration damper or a harmonic balancer?"
People are getting their crank pulleys confused with the harmonic dampers found on some V6 / V8 engines. "Harmonic Balancer" is a term that is used loosely in the automotive industry. Technically, this type of device does not exist. The "balancer" part comes from engines that are externally balanced and have a counterweight cast into the damper, hence the merging of the two terms. None of the applications that we offer utilize a counterweight as part of the pulley as these engines are internally balanced.
The pulleys on most of the new import and smaller domestic engines have an elastomer (rubber ring) incorporated into the pulley that looks similar to a harmonic damper. The elastomer in the OEM pulley serves as an isolator, which is there to suppress natural vibration and noise from the engine itself, the A/C compressor, P/S pump, and alternator. This is what the manufacturers call NVH (Noise Vibration & Harshness) when referring to noticeable noise and vibration in the passenger compartment. It is important to note that in these applications, this elastomer is somewhat inadequate in size, as well as life span, to act as an effective torsional damper. If you look at the pulleys on some of the imports there is no rubber to be found at all. We have samples of these, mostly from Acura/Honda, the Nissan Altima, 1.8L Eclipse, 2.3L Fords, Chrysler 2.2L's, and 1.8L VW's, to mention a few. This is not to say that with our pulleys you will hear a ton of noise or feel more vibration from your engine compartment. Most who have installed and driven a vehicle with our pulleys will notice the engine actually feels smoother. This is a natural result of replacing the heavy steel crank pulley with a CNC-machined aluminum pulley. NVH is variable and unique to every car. NVH will increase with the installation of an aftermarket intake and/or exhaust, for example. Think of OEM intake systems in newer cars, they use baffles and resonators in the intake to quiet all the intake noise. Aftermarket intakes eliminate these resonators and create dramatic increases in engine noise from the throttle opening and closing. So to most tuners, certain types of NVH can make the driving experience more enjoyable.
The purpose of a traditional harmonic damper is to protect against crank failure from torsional movement. This is not necessary in most modern engines because of the many advances in engine design and materials. Factors such as stroke, displacement, inline, V configurations, power output, etc., do determine when and how these harmonics and torsional movements occur.
Again, there is a lot of internet hearsay about the pulleys. When engine problems occur, too often people are quick to blame the pulley first, rather than taking the time to look logically into why there was a problem. We hope that after reading this you will understand the crank pulleys better.
12-10-2004
#75
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It's for vibrating damping, doesn't matter what they call it. It's a large rubber ring that's effective at what it does. Over time it will break, but all the more reason to replace it when doing the timing belt service.
12-10-2004
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Originally Posted by flowerpowerlove
is there any way to custom fab the pulley WITH the rubber ring?
06-01-2009
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I have been known to push the car hard around the turns of some tracks. I don't drag race though, if that is what you are asking. The majority of the mods on my car concerned suspension and handling. Very little went into the engine.
On a side note, after going back through the thread a bit, I have this to say: The crank pulley itself has done about 45,000 miles on my engine so far, and I've had no serious engine issues. Only issue it has ever had was an extremely dirty throttle body that made for rough idle. Thats what I get for postponing all engine maintenance until 75,000 miles (except for fluid changes of course).
On a side note, after going back through the thread a bit, I have this to say: The crank pulley itself has done about 45,000 miles on my engine so far, and I've had no serious engine issues. Only issue it has ever had was an extremely dirty throttle body that made for rough idle. Thats what I get for postponing all engine maintenance until 75,000 miles (except for fluid changes of course).
06-01-2009
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Rep Power: 298 Re: unorthodox crank pulley
i have about 50k on mine with no problems. my engine has 120k on it. until i pulled it out to swap.
06-01-2009
#84
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Rep Power: 0 Re: unorthodox crank pulley
@mclean987: Unfortunately Unorthodox Racing has stopped producing the pulley set for the 01-05 Civic 1.7L SOHC Engine due to low demand. I just contacted them and they are working on a system that will allow group buys and one off sales. One off sales will likely be very expensive, and considering the already low demand for the product its unlikely you will meet their requirements for a group buy (at least 30 people with a $10 deposit each).
I do not know of any other brands that produce such pulleys for our cars. Sorry.
I do not know of any other brands that produce such pulleys for our cars. Sorry.
06-01-2009
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Rep Power: 210 Re: unorthodox crank pulley
i just picked up. ill be putting it on within a week or so. My buddy had one on his 05 v6 accord and he said that it helped with the bottom end a lot. So only testing will tell, ill post back as soon as i give it a run on the butt dyno.
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accord, aftermarket, autozone, balanced, civic, completely, crank, crankshaft, d17, dynos, honda, pulley, pulleys, removal, tool, unorthodox
