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I hope to get some feedback regarding the logistics of dropping my rebuilt engine into the car plus some piston ring stuff, if time permits.
So what parts are recommended to attach on the engine stand prior to hooking up to the hoist?
- Obviously I will attach timing components and cylinder head stuff. I am specifically wondering if I should add transmission, intake, alternator, any hoses, wiring harness (currently still in car), etc.?
-- Looking for the most efficient, clean and simplified method.
I am wondering how in the world I'm going to lower the long block off the engine stand to attach the transmission.... safely...
- Concern here is that it's currently on the stand using the clutch housing (transmission) -> short block mating bolt holes. I use a load leveler with 4 brackets to hook up so yeah.
Also while I'm here, slightly concerned with my piston ring gap clearances, see Honda specs below (last column is service limit).
I am running an oversized bore, pistons, and rings.
Using feeler gauges, on each cylinder, properly seated rings,
- Top rings varied between 0.017" - 0.019"
- 2nd rings 0.016" - 0.019".
Measurements conclude that i'm well below the service limit, but the top rings are over the standard range. 2nd rings are at the end of the range.
- Q: Will I experience excessive blow-by or oil consumption? Or should I be A-OK.
Hello!
I am wondering how in the world I'm going to lower the long block off the engine stand to attach the transmission.... safely...
- Concern here is that it's currently on the stand using the clutch housing (transmission) -> short block mating bolt holes. I use a load leveler with 4 brackets to hook up so yeah.
you need an engine hoist, they're pretty cheap, or borrow, rent, steal one.
you need an engine hoist, they're pretty cheap, or borrow, rent, steal one.
I don't know if you're just trolling or not. How in the hell do you think I removed my engine in the first place? Yes I have a hoist. As I said, I used a load leveler to get the engine out and plan on using it to put it back in. Hence my problem. I was hoping I didn't have to spell it out.
Sorry must have missed the load leveler part,
Should be able to have everything including the trans attached and drop the whole assembly in.
Have the rad, condenser, etc out of the way when you go to drop it in
I've pulled mine out a few times and i have found that the easiest thing is to have the engine completely assembled minus the exhaust.
Go ahead and hook up the intake, flywheel, and alternator while on the stand. keep wiring harness in the car...at least i always do.
I'm not sure how your engine is bolted to the stand, but there is no way i can bolt the tranny to the engine while on the stand.
I always lower the engine to the ground and install the clutch then the tranny on the ground. This is wayyyyyyyyyyyy easier to do outside the car. Trust me on this.
You can always cut the center upper radiator mount like it. This makes the swap soo much easier... Turbo, and radiator all attached...but upper radiator mount is cut. I have hood pins holding hood down.
Great this was exactly what I was looking for! I don't have a turbo and it is all stock. I was hoping that I can wiggle my way in without taking off the front end? When I pulled it all I took was the short block and tranny together. Going back in I wanted to do as much work on the engine stand. Yes I need a good way to lower the engine down to the ground and attach the transmission. My engine stand situation is exactly as you described - impossible to attach transmission while on there. I want to drop as complete of an engine in as possible! Also thanks for the tip on leaving electrical harness in car, i will have to bend in odd positions but i'm sure I will prevail. Just don't know how i'm going to sit the engine on the ground and attach the transmission without anything falling over, torquing down bolts, etc. Any tips on that aspect would really be appreciated. Thank you!!
Sorry must have missed the load leveler part,
Should be able to have everything including the trans attached and drop the whole assembly in.
Have the rad, condenser, etc out of the way when you go to drop it in
Both of you said I should just pull the front end off.. I suppose there might be some sense to that. I will look into it. Any comments on the piston ring ranges? Thank you
Don't need to pull the entire front end apart, just get the rad and condenser out of the way. Removing that top part of the rad support will definitely make it easier but you'll be able to get the engine and trans in without cutting that out, it will be tight, but managable
I usually remove the intake, exhaust, and alternator before pulling the engine. I unbolt the PS pump and AC compressor and wiggle them out of the way without disconnecting hoses.
For the transmission I break the bolts loose while it's still mounted in the car, when installing I get them tight enough on the ground then torque when it's in the car again (at least the best I can). I leave the lift connected to the engine when installing the trans, this prevents the engine from tipping.
Well my rod bolts come in today (hopefully) which means time to slap everything together, after work, and hopefully have the engine installed by the end of the weekend!!!
Note, turns out these are Hastings piston rings and I spoke with them on the phone and they say that their spec for top and 2nd ring should be between 10-20 thou gap. My machine shop agreed that the top ring gaps are on the looser side - but will still run and grant me my desired engine reliability. So what I'm hearing is that I can run these rings and be fine. I really wish that the car guru world would speak up on this matter (see original post). Thank you all for your support.
Well my rod bolts come in today (hopefully) which means time to slap everything together, after work, and hopefully have the engine installed by the end of the weekend!!!
Note, turns out these are Hastings piston rings and I spoke with them on the phone and they say that their spec for top and 2nd ring should be between 10-20 thou gap. My machine shop agreed that the top ring gaps are on the looser side - but will still run and grant me my desired engine reliability. So what I'm hearing is that I can run these rings and be fine. I really wish that the car guru world would speak up on this matter (see original post). Thank you all for your support.
...lol, I just saved time by rebuilding it in frame.
...did have to take the transmission off to get the crank out, but I just used a combo of jack stands and wratchet straps at that point.
I did a full rebuild on the engine stand and got both the head and block done at a machine shop. So that's a bit better than doing it in frame. You're wild, lol.
looks good.
I would throw some lucas assembly lube on any moving part.
Also, you may want to add some water to the engine to make sure your "o" rings( located on the tube from the water pump to the thermostat area) are not leaking.
It's a PIA to fix if the engine is back in the car fully assembled and leaks from the backside.....a friend told me this once....
looks good.
I would throw some lucas assembly lube on any moving part.
Also, you may want to add some water to the engine to make sure your "o" rings( located on the tube from the water pump to the thermostat area) are not leaking.
It's a PIA to fix if the engine is back in the car fully assembled and leaks from the backside.....a friend told me this once....
Well, yes I put assembly lube on the main and rod bearings, as well as camshaft journals and bearings. I rubbed oil in the cylinder bores and piston rings. New O-rings, gaskets, and seals (yes the 2 O-rings on the metal tubes you mentioned as well). I will fill up the fluids before starting the car.
Really my only concern with the build is the crazy ****. Like bearing tolerances, crank balancing with the new pistons, and ring gap. Other than that, the build is coming along like a dream!
Just throwing it out there since I might have forgot on my build... part of the reason why I had to build it twice, but triple check the piston ring gap clocking.
if you used a spiral band type ring compressor, they like to rotate the piston rings out of order.
you can see the top one, the bottom ring is up to luck I guess.
Just throwing it out there since I might have forgot on my build... part of the reason why I had to build it twice, but triple check the piston ring gap clocking.
if you used a spiral band type ring compressor, they like to rotate the piston rings out of order.
you can see the top one, the bottom ring is up to luck I guess.
Good luck.
Yeah I have a spiral compressor and noticed them spinning on me a bit too. Screw it.
12-04-2018
Re: D17A2 Stock Rebuild - Seeking Advice 
