LucasV

Nearly 1000 miles ago, I added 1/3 can of Seafoam to my crankcase, and the other 2/3 into a full tank of gas.

Since the Seafoam, I've been having an issue with a "cylinder 1 misfire" triggering my CEL. I've reset it twice now, and still, it's coming back. I've used two different OBDII devices, and one read a P0301, "cylinder 1 misfire," and P1298, "Electric Load Detector, circuit high input," while the second read P0301, P0302, P0303, and P304, which is a misfire in all four cylinders, and doesn't even read a P1298 code.

Would Seafoam cause a misfire? Check that, I know it caused the misfire, but what can I do to fix it?

GolNat

iTrader: (7)

Pull the plugs, see what they look like. Give them a good cleaning if they are dirty.

LucasV

Actually, I've already replaced them.

ezone

Not unless you poured in waaaay too much.

You can't KNOW that it caused the misfire until you figure out the true root cause and fix it.
Clue: Why did you use Seafoam in it in the first place?

Seriously, don't you think the 2/3 can you put in the gas tank 1000 miles ago would be gone by now?

If you think the 1/3 can you poured in the engine oil is causing it, then change the oil.

Replaced them with what?
If you got Bosch anything, just throw them away now and get it over with.


You read codes, what about the Freeze frame data? Post that.
Compression test results?
Um....Valve adjustment?


The ELD code is a common issue, there's a TSB on it. Just replace the ELD unit with new.

Stock 99

I've put Seafoam in my Civic gas tank 3 years and 2 years ago and still have never thrown any codes on my car yet.

I've never used it in my oil because...well that just seems wrong to me but I think 1000 miles is more than they recommend for the crankcase.

and like ezone already said what was the reason for using the Seafoam in the first place?

From everything I've ever read about Seafoam it's basically alcohol and it been sold for like 60 years now....you'd think if it was a faulty product it wouldn't have been around that long. Personally I like it for stuff that uses mixed gas/oil like lawnmowers that sit for months at a time without running.

LucasV

I used exactly what Seafoam recommended, which is 1/3 can in the crankcase. I can't, without a doubt, say it was Seafoam, but it's extremely coincidental that my car didn't have the issue until the same week I added Seafoam. It's been said that Seafoam actually cleans out deposits that are known to help your engine, and I believe that could be the case here. Someone recommended using Seafoam every 10K miles or so to keep the fuel system running in good shape.

My spark plugs are Denso, not Bosch. Also, I don't have freeze frame data. I may be able to pull it later today, but we'll see if I have time.

I've also heard nothing but good things about Seafoam. I've never heard of my situation, either, but it's too coincidental to rule it out.

ezone

Coincidence or not, your car still has a problem no matter what you think the cause may have been.
You can't know the true cause until you take further steps.

Approach the problem like any other problem:
Diagnose the problem correctly.
Proceed with the fix.
Then you can figure out if Seafoam was the cause.




Good quality fuel is all that 99% of the motoring public ever needs.
I suggest you read all 4 main pages of this site: http://www.toptiergas.com/


Excellent choice! Same as factory? What car do you have, anyway?

FF data AND the associated code that goes with it.


I think there's a time and place for it. Very specific reasons to use it IMO.
I wouldn't ever just toss some at any of my vehicles for no apparent reason.


More likely your car just has a problem that needs figured out and fixed, like any other car problem.

It would have happened anyway, Seafoam or not.

kent.brookins

Seafoam website states using the product will sometime mess up the o2 sensor. It gives a procedure to make sure it is not gummed up.

LucasV

The CEL began blinking today on the ride to work, which indicates a high probability of further damage. I dropped it off at a local mechanic tonight, so I'll keep everyone up-to-date.

ezone

Oh, NOW I see you posted freeze frame data. You shoulda said something.

P0301
1782 RPM
29 MPH,
18% TPS
183*F
No EGR data on your list. Dang.

Can you tell it misfires, can you feel it happen while driving?
Does it misfire at idle or only when you are driving?


I'd guess your EGR passages need to be cleaned out....but there are a couple checks to do before saying that for sure.

LucasV

Yes, it's an obvious misfire, more frequent at lower speed/lower RPM. However, it does misfire at high speed/high RPM, just not as much. It also does misfire at idle.

That said, I did more research and hopefully he'll just clean the EGR as opposed to completely replacing it. The car has 187K, therefore it may not be a bad idea to replace it, though.

ezone

Not the valve itself. I meant the passages. The intake manifold has to be removed in order to clean the passages.

BUT your improved description is not the typical partially clogged EGR issue.

The misfire would ONLY occur WHILE the EGR is open and operating if this were the case. The EGR only operates after engine is warmed up and misfire would be noticed while driving at a relatively steady speed. Simply disconnecting the valve would prove if the miss was caused by it or not.

LucasV

I talked with the mechanic and he said the spark plugs which I replaced a day or two before are already burnt up. They're replacing the coil pack, and new spark plugs, and test driving it later today.

I've seen where a single coil can range from $40-70, depending on the brand. I'm starting to worry about how much I'm going to have to throw into this thing. I may just have them delete the code, and trade it in. I haven't had the best luck with any Honda I've owned.

ezone

I wonder exactly what "burnt up" means to them.
There are MANY different ways a plug or coil can fail. Which way is going on here?


MSRP (dealer list) is about $67 USD according to Majestic. Or $47 mail order on their site.

The car has almost 200,000 miles on it, things are bound to wear out and break by now.
I'd say you got your moneys worth out of it (or someone did, if not you).

You should try owning some Chrysler products that have important front suspension parts made out of cheese and need replaced before warranty is out, and transmissions that make you walk every 40k. (Some of the stories I hear from the Mopar dealer next door are just amazing!) You'd appreciate Hondas a lot more.

LucasV

Well, after replacing the coil and spark plugs, I drove it for a day and the CEL came back on. I took it back, he ripped everything apart, and all came back well. He reset the CEL, drove it for awhile, and once again, I picked it up. Nearly 30 miles later, the CEL came back on.

At this point, I'm fed up. I don't know what else to do, aside from dropping it by the stealership at $85/hour. I would assume they have more detailed diagnostics, and could probably have it running within the day, but is it really worth it? I'm going to drop it off. It's almost paid off, and I would love not to have a car payment. Not to mention, my insurance is dirt cheap.

I'll keep everyone updated. I still don't know what caused this mess, but just want it repaired.

ezone

Troubleshooting is far different from parts replacing.

Misfires are some of the easier issues to diagnose, if one can diagnose. JMHO
You know I hate that term, right?

Dealers are free to employ idiots too.
Few shops anywhere can afford to employ a full staff of top gun talent.
The lowest paid tend to generate the majority of the revenue in many shops.

Many people (management and consumers alike) that have no true idea how modern cars work just figure any clown with a shoebox full of tools can read a code and throw parts.
$85/hr would be dirt cheap here, and I'm not even in a metro area.

LucasV

Well, some good news, and some bad news.

First, the bad news; I sold my Civic. The good news; I bought a Civic. Why would I buy another Civic after all my trouble? Honestly, what you said about having 189K miles and stuff starting to break down, that's what sold me. You are right, and while I was upset over my original Civic, it never left me stranded, not once, and that says a lot about a car with that kind of mileage.

Without further ado, my new ride.



That said, I believe my first purchase may be a K&N air filter. Suggestions?

ezone

Congratulations
Looks spiffy!
What year is the car? (they all look alike to me LOL)
How many miles on it?
Looks like LX, Taffeta white...


Looks like a big place if they sell RVs too...

Check the filter that's in there first. If it is good, why let it go to waste now?
I prefer OE filters myself in most cases.

Look at the cabin filter
ATF service.

Learn the maintenance minder.

Shoot me the VIN of the car

LucasV

It's a 2010 Civic LX, Taffeta White. I actually bought it from a well-known, well-established, Hyundai dealership in the area. After all the headaches with my previous Honda, I ended up talking them down on the extended warranty, and got that for 3-years, 36,000 miles. I know, I probably won't use it this early, but I'm not taking any chances.

I've done some research on K&N filters, and from what I've seen, they're actually not recommended, so I may stay away from it.

The VIN should be in your box.

I appreciate everyone's help, BTW. These last couple of weeks have been a bitch, and having any and all help is extremely awesome.

BlueEM2

iTrader: (1)

Another seafoam destruction story. New civic however... Looks badass

LucasV

I still can't say whether Seafoam caused it, but it's too much of a coincidence to use it again.

BlueEM2

iTrader: (1)

Stuff is nasty. Can't believe people are still using it but that's just my personal opinion