Black91civic

I know this is a long read but I really need the help.
First the background story...
So yesterday I decided to do some diagnosing on my '91 as to why going dead in 2-3 days. Using a multimeter I did some voltage tests and, while running and all accesories that draw power (to load up the alternator) turned on (lights, high beams, max air, hazards, radio) I tested the resistance by putting one prong on the negative battery terminal and the other on the outer casing of the alternator, I found that the resistance was higher than it should be. So I started by checking my grounds, beginning at the battery. The negative battery cable looked pretty worn so I went ahead and replaced it. I wired it from the terminal to the original grounding spot next to my clutch cable. After doing this I remembered there was a secondary ground, in-line of the original cable about half way, bolted to the frame just below the battery tray. Now, I don't know if this is the cause of my issue, but now the car won't start at all!!!
Basically when I turn the key to 'run' position, it just makes a buzzing/humming sound, what sounds like coming from either the fuse panel or main relay. When I push the clutch in and try to turn it over, it won't even crank or click and the sound is still there but a little quieter. Then I let go of the key, returning it to 'run' position, let out the clutch, and the original buzz/hum comes back.
I linked my video below of the problem. Please take the time to watch it.

Black91civic

https://youtu.be/jIJg4SxmhJg

ezone

For this you should have used an ammeter check draw with the car turned off.


For your present problems, I can only guess you now have some poor or missing connections somewhere that you touched.
Have you not restored the chassis ground you spoke of in that quote?

Black91civic

No, I currently only have it grounded to the chassis, and not the point on the block by the clutch cable, since the chassis had the shortest distance from the battery. I don't know how to make a double ground it like it was.

ezone

You broke it by dinking with stuff that wasn't even broke? LOL



It needs ALL the grounds to work correctly.
Drivetrain and chassis BOTH MUST be grounded, for good reason.

Buy an extra cable with eyelet on both ends. Bolt it on. Figure it out.

Black91civic

As I stated, my car kept going dead, after fully charging a good battery, every 2-3 days. (That's the problem)

For reference, I followed this diagnosis.

https://youtu.be/FTGz0PKIl84

Everything checked out fine up to the negative terminal-to-alt. case test. My multimeter read above .2 so I followed as he instructed by check my grounds. I found that the negative battery cable was at the beginning stages of corossion and the contacts on block and chassis needed cleaning up.
This is why I went this route.

ezone

You weren't real clear on how it goes dead.

Goes dead while driving? Charging problem.


Goes dead while the car sits untouched for 2 days? Draw problem or bad battery. Do a parasitic draw test.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KF1gijj03_0
Edit: Weird, it should have opened the video.

I only watched from 4-5 minutes. AADD kicks in.



And you still need enough ground cables to connect battery negative, chassis, and the engine or trans all together.

Black91civic

Yeah, my bad on that one. Doesn't go dead while driving, but overnight or like you said untouched for a day or two. I began to do that test before I did the one I posted, but on the first amp draw test I got a reading of zero and just took it for granted that I didn't have any draw. I'll retest for parasitic draw once I get my battery double grounded again.