Gunner

Thanks DHM Eric

Parts Needed To Install Pads and Rotors

• Honda Civic Brake Pads
• Honda Civic Rotors

Tools Needed To install Pads and Rotors

10mm, 12mm, 17mm socket and wrench
big philips impact screwdriver
mallet
hammer
brake cleaner
silicon grease (if your pads didn’t come with any)
Steps to Replace Brake Pads and Rotors

1. Jack up the front of the car and put them on stands, remove the front wheels.

2. Remove the two 10mm bolts on the brake line bracket so the line can swing free.

3. (Seen from the inside of the wheel well), remove the two 17mm bolts holding the caliper bracket on. These bolts were the toughest part of this experience. I had to use a steel wrench and bang it with a mallet to get them loose.

4. With the two bolts removed, the caliper will come free (don’t drop it!). You can either hang it with some wire, or use something to support it. The only thing attaching it to the car now is the flimsy brake line.

5. Using the impact screwdriver (or muscle with a big philips screwdriver), remove the two 8mm screws which are securing the brake rotor.

If you can’t get the screws off with a screwdriver or impact screwdriver, drilling the screw heads out with a drill bit is also an option
6. Now that the screws are off, only rust and crud hold the rotor on. Bang it with a hammer to pop it off. I banged it on the rotor center, not on the rotor brake surface. Remove the old rotor, clean off gunk on the hub. Clean the new rotor, and mount the new rotor on.

7. Replace the screws (light torque, 8 ft-lbs), put the caliper back on and torque the mounting bolts to 80 ft-lbs. Leave the brake line braket off, cuz we’re not done.
Replacing the rotor screws is optional. The lug nuts will secure the rotor in place.
8. Remove the 12mm caliper bolt (lower one). There are two, to hold the caliper body to the caliper frame. Leave the upper one alone.

9. Now that the lower bolt is removed, you can flip the caliper body open, exposing the brake pads.

10. Pull out the old pads and retaining clips and clean them up. Discard the old brake pads. Put grease spots on the pads at the spots shown (yellow triangles) to prevent/reduce squeeling brakes. That is, we are greasing the BACK of the pad, NOT the part that contacts the surface of the rotor.

Note the triangle pointing to the piston edge. We will be greasing this spot, but not yet.
11. Insert the retaining clips and the new pads.

12. Because the old pads are most likely thinner than the new ones, the piston will probably need to be pressed inwards in order to widen the caliper enough to accomodate the new pads. I used a big C clamp to push it in maybe 3mm. After compressing, I greased up the ring edge of the piston.
13. I highlighted the piston cylinder. (Looking back, I probably should have used a piece of wood between the clamp the piston for protection and more even compression).

14. Flip the caliper back down, replace and tighten the 12mm caliper bolt. Replace the wheel and pump the brakes to rebuild the pressure. Follow proper brake in procedure (not part of this DIY).
15. I covered my brake fluid reservoir with a rag, but with the small movement of the piston, no fluid leaked out.