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D16y7 build questions.

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Old 02-21-2013
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D16y7 build questions.

Hey everyone. Growing up as a kid I played need for speed and turbo'd the cars an what not... Well now I'm older nd can actually understand what to do to a car...

I know d16s are a sohc non vtec engine. But I'm stuck with it...
I heard from a buddy at work to build the internals of my car for good strength on the engine... The only thing I know about internals is pistons...
So I looked around about making pistons stronger . I heard to "boar" my pistons. Make them bigger? How could I do so? Teir 75mm by 90.. I don't understand what this means... Fully. So if I could get some advice on good pistons to put on a d16y7, would be great. Ones that I can run about 6-8 psi turbo on.

What other part of internals are there?
Old 02-23-2013
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Re: D16y7 build questions.

Up.And bump.
Old 02-25-2013
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Re: D16y7 build questions.

You have lots of research to do before starting. first things first go to the parts store and buy a service manual. mine is a chiltons and it has just about anything you would need to know about your engine and gives step by step instructions on how to do most jobs.

cheap, fast, and reliable. you pick any 2 but you cannot have all 3.

here is a video of a basic engine build to give you an idea of how deep into it you will be.
[autostream]http://autostream.com/ibcivicforums/?page_type=firebirdplayerthumbnail&framepage=1379& transactionid=1361774835-107198174108&posted_by=_www.civicforums.com&youtub e_video_id=QmLfS2ESXEE[/autostream]

you might want to look into doing a mini-me swap first. in your case you would need a d16y8 cylinder head to swap onto your block. that in itself is a lot of work for a beginner. but would yield about 20hp and would be better to start with for a turbo build.

as far as internals go-

block-
pistons
connecting rods
crank
bearings

head-
camshaft(s)
camgear
valves
valve springs
retainers

^to name a few major parts

also you need to know your power goals with the car. a stock d16 can handle about 200-220hp safely before parts start to fail. so if your only planning to run 6-8psi of boost you would theoretically be fine without modifying the block. however most will suggest at the very least using arp headstuds to prevent the pressure from lifting the head off of the block. meaning you will have to remove your cylinder head and install them, then new headgasket and like i said you might as well do the mini-me swap while your at it.

as far as actually installing a turbo and everything you will need i will lead you to this thread. tons and tons of info on turbocharging a honda for beginners all the way to experienced tuners. bookmark it and research.
http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=1024174
Old 02-28-2013
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Re: D16y7 build questions.

Thanks man! That helps a lot. I did some research. And how to swap engines. I could get enough money for a b16... But I want to swap it myself. If you buy an engine from let's say a website. Does it come with all the necessary parts? Like.. Wiring harness, motor mounts etc? I'd rather drop a new engine+tranny into my car. Instead of building up this one. What all do I need? For a b16. Is it a b16 block with a b18 head?
Old 02-28-2013
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Re: D16y7 build questions.

If you want to swap id suggest finding a shop around you that imports engines. ask around look on craigslist, sometimes you can find a hell of a deal.

a swap usually includes everything (or most of what you need)
an engine is usually just the complete block and head, no manifolds or trans ect.

if you would rather order online ask around and see who has a good reputation ect ect. as ive never ordered one i wouldnt really know how to help you with that. but on the website it should say everything it comes with. usually full long block (head and block complete from oil pan to valve cover), transmission, axles, motor mounts, intake and exhaust manifold with sensors, shift linkages, harness, and ecu if its is a swap. a lot of times come with ps and ac pumps too.

here is zerolift autolabs website out of ohio
http://www.zerolift.com/

they sell both engines and full swaps, however their website is under maintanence right now so no prices but if you give them a call im sure they would be glad to help you out and explain what all you would need. i believe they ship anywhere in the US also.

as far as a b16 with b18 head im not sure why you would want to do this. most of the time people use a b18 block with b16 head because it makes more torque. but id suggest either do some serious research first or stick with a full longblock b16 or b18. b18's will make more power unless its an LS with no vtec. also some come with lsd transmissions and some dont (usually only the type r's do) which will effect the price a lot. if you dont have 3500-4500 to spend on a type r then go for a gsr(b18c1) or a stock b16a2 from 99-00 civic si.

also to do the swap yourself you will need space (a decent sized garage), an engine lift or hoist, and possibly a buddy. also a nice set of tools.
Old 03-01-2013
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Re: D16y7 build questions.

Originally Posted by pwnsauce
If you want to swap id suggest finding a shop around you that imports engines. ask around look on craigslist, sometimes you can find a hell of a deal.

a swap usually includes everything (or most of what you need)
an engine is usually just the complete block and head, no manifolds or trans ect.

if you would rather order online ask around and see who has a good reputation ect ect. as ive never ordered one i wouldnt really know how to help you with that. but on the website it should say everything it comes with. usually full long block (head and block complete from oil pan to valve cover), transmission, axles, motor mounts, intake and exhaust manifold with sensors, shift linkages, harness, and ecu if its is a swap. a lot of times come with ps and ac pumps too.

here is zerolift autolabs website out of ohio
http://www.zerolift.com/

they sell both engines and full swaps, however their website is under maintanence right now so no prices but if you give them a call im sure they would be glad to help you out and explain what all you would need. i believe they ship anywhere in the US also.

as far as a b16 with b18 head im not sure why you would want to do this. most of the time people use a b18 block with b16 head because it makes more torque. but id suggest either do some serious research first or stick with a full longblock b16 or b18. b18's will make more power unless its an LS with no vtec. also some come with lsd transmissions and some dont (usually only the type r's do) which will effect the price a lot. if you dont have 3500-4500 to spend on a type r then go for a gsr(b18c1) or a stock b16a2 from 99-00 civic si.

also to do the swap yourself you will need space (a decent sized garage), an engine lift or hoist, and possibly a buddy. also a nice set of tools.

Ok. Would anyone here if offered because your having a baby, trade your vtec-for a d16y7? This guy on Craigslist has a vtec -e an I have a d16y7 it's a 4 door civic lx. His is a coupe and has vtec-e? Is vtec-e good?
Old 03-05-2013
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Re: D16y7 build questions.

Originally Posted by 98lxbuild
Ok. Would anyone here if offered because your having a baby, trade your vtec-for a d16y7? This guy on Craigslist has a vtec -e an I have a d16y7 it's a 4 door civic lx. His is a coupe and has vtec-e? Is vtec-e good?
for gas mileage yeah. thats about it tho. if the person on craigslist is having a baby and wants to trade you his coupe for your sedan then yeah that makes sense. not completely sure what your asking though.

vtec uses a secondary lobe on the camshaft that once the engine gets to a set rpm it will change over to the higher lift lobe on the camshaft for a bit more power.

vtec-e has no secondary lobe on the camshaft. instead at idle the engine will run on 3 valves instead of 4. once you get to a set rpm the 4th valve will open giving a little more power, but also great gas mileage at idle and low rpms.
Old 03-15-2013
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Re: D16y7 build questions.

Ok so after looking prices an for the build I'm doing in a d16 this is my last choice hahahahahaha...

I'm going to bore the pistons with eagle rods and cc pistons. My only question is can I put any d16 piston in this block? Because there's a 75.50 bore which is .20 more.
Then I'm going to swap the head with a y8 and p2p ecu.
Old 03-15-2013
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Re: D16y7 build questions.

Originally Posted by 98lxbuild
Ok so after looking prices an for the build I'm doing in a d16 this is my last choice hahahahahaha...

I'm going to bore the pistons with eagle rods and cc pistons. My only question is can I put any d16 piston in this block? Because there's a 75.50 bore which is .20 more.
Then I'm going to swap the head with a y8 and p2p ecu.
Well. You absolutely NEED to do more research on building engines. If you havent bought a chiltons or haynes manual yet go buy one asap. My chiltons has an engine overhaul section im pretty sure haynes would too. You need to study that section till you feel comfortable enough to build your block in your sleep. I also have a step by step rebuild dvd i got online (not sure where from) on a d16 for when i start mine.

That being said you need 75mm pistons for the stock bore. IF you want to do an overbore you will need 75.5mm pistons but youll have to take it to a machine shop to bore it. Honestly if you take your block apart, or at least have the head off, and you can see crosshatches on the cylinder walls i wouldnt even bother with an overbore just hone it and drop your new pistons and rods in.

Why are you using eagle rods and cc pistons? what compression pistons were you going to run? Like i said in the first post your stock block would be fine up to 200whp, no need to go building the block unless your shooting for over 250whp.

If you are wanting more say 300hp stick with vitara pistons. their stronger than our d16 pistons and slightly lower compression. Id suggest getting this kit which is teflon coated 75.5mm vitaras and custom length rods for them. Vitaras are slightly shorter than standard d16 pistons and these rods are slightly longer to make up for them. And the whole combo is probably cheaper than just those cc pistons alone.

ALSO NO P2P if you are going to build and boost it your gonna need a chipped p28 ecu and a conversion harness. If your car is a 98 then you need an obd2a to obd1 harness. Then youll have to find a tuner to tune the ecu to your setup. I bought my p28 off ebay already chipped and socketed ready for the tuner for 180.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/OBD-1-honda-acura-chipped-p28-equivalent-vtec-ecu-with-OBD2A-conversion-harness-/221156329288?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item337df1c748&vxp=mtr
Old 05-02-2013
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Re: D16y7 build questions.

Like pwnsauce said.....

I personally have a d16y7 turbo. I dont know why they want to take advantage of the y8 other than better flowing head and the extra hp from the vtec. But whatever floats your boat.

A d16y7 in stock form is junk. Even with the y8 mini me conversion the weakest components of the y7 are still there. The rods are only good to around 11-12 psi which is over 200 hp. The pistons are only as good as the compression also. If your rings are wore out then any amount of boost is going to pressurize your entire block and cause a lot of blow by too.

I am running Eagle rods and low compression vitara pistons. I chose the 75 mm pistons because im shooting for more than 400. The low compression allows me to run higher boost without the added worry of my car being at 9.5:1 in the begining. The low compression pistons get you to 9.0:1 and add a 2mm steel headgasket and your ready for a ton of boost. The eagle rods are supposedly good for only 600 but I have seen them well over 600. The reason I chose the stock size piston is because you are liable to crack the cylinder walls due to thinning out the cylinder walls to fit new pistons. Not so much with the 75.5mm (.20 over) but if you decide to punch the cylinder out to a 76mm (which is 1 mm over) you will crack the factory cylinder walls under boost. Maybe not the first time but eventually it would happen.

Another part that is required for an upgrade is the stock valve train. These will be okay until around 250 or so. Im not sure of what psi they fail. I chose brian crower valves, springs, and titanium retainers.

Also when you do your head swap if you are choosing to boost this motor plan on getting some new head bolts and make sure you seal the headgasket very well. And DO NOT GET A CHEAP HEADGASKET. They will fail. Steel headgasket is always a plus.

You might also want to look into getting a thermal intake gasket. This is a 3hp freebie I mean under boost that is. What it does is lower the temperature of the air going into your motor by a few degrees so yeah for 30 bucks it is definatly worth the extra 30 to put on a few more ponies.

Feel free to ask any other questions you like. Im not one to tell you that you need to buy another car. I will however tell you that the d16y8 head will allow you to run higher boost than the stock y7. I never said mine was stock tho LOL. Port and polish is a beautiful thing for turbo.
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