SilverScyth

I haven't actually posted in a while but life happens.

Subject: EJ6 DX coupe automatic (all stock)

Status: Functional, overall "good" condition
rack&pinion started leaking all fluid out...which lead to me check shocks/struts...
shocks/struts need replaced... which lead to finding a leaky proportioning valve...
proportioning valve to be replaced (parts on hand)

goal: shock/strut/coil-over for a spirited DD
pending on cost, im not opposed to arms, bushings, and camber/toe also

finances: mid-grade "budgeting" - preferably no ebay

I've researched so much the past week, I think I've researched myself out. TONS of old data, not much on current data -_-
Open to suggestions at this point. I've looked at OEM through full track set-ups for suspension and lurked the archives on here.
Kinda hit "the wall"

Thanks in advance for any insight you may offer.

mac25

-Raceland coilovers run about $500, for a set. (Down side no dampening adjustment), buy the higher end ones, there are two types.

-rear adjustable control arms of your choice. $100

-any rear swaybar 20-30mm. $100-500

-any front strut bar. (A non adjustable, solid bar is best)
$80-$500

-good set of tires

GolNat

iTrader: (7)

Coilovers are the way to go IMO. Good set of tires too.

Like mac said Raceland are budget along with KSport, BCRacing, GodSpeed.

SilverScyth

Thank you for the replies

I've been looking through so many places and seen the raceland, ksport, bcracing, godspeed
One other set up I've been thinking about is Truhart which is a sister company to D2
BUT nothing seems to really stand out, more negative reviews than positive.
Wouldn't mind paying more than 200 bucks, I'd call it a healthy budget
Quality over Quantity with a dash of reliability lol

I've eyed up the GC/Koni's and Progress CS3 (though I think they are just out of reach for most so no one has reviews)

GolNat

iTrader: (7)

I consider a low budget setup in the $500-$800 range. I personally would not trust a $200 setup. Stick with well known brands. Tein is a great budget company.

There are no need for reviews. Both of those companies make excellent products that I would buy in a heart beat.

Are you trying to get hella low and don't care about handling or do you want performance?

SilverScyth

Going low is cool and all but I'd rather have a good performing build that doesn't try to rattle my brain out of my ear lol

Some related parts like camber/toe I've thought about. Also considered converting the rear to disc from a DB. This is the rabbit hole i've fallen into >_<

mac25

Camber is adjusted in the rear with the adjustable control arms, they are needed in order to lower the car properly, that's why we suggested them.

You wont have a chamber issue in front.

Toe can be set by adjusting the oem tie rod end links up front. You can adjust the rear as well but to a lesser degree, but still fine to drive.

.....

Don't worry about caster adjustment, rear toe, or front toe that much, unless you have a lot of money and complete.

I race SCCA solo 1, and the above mods are all that is needed; don't worry about the rest unless you're looking for real solo 2 time attack.

sdaidoji

iTrader: (1)

Mac,

he have a 6th gen, as long as he does not go crazy low, he does not need camber adjusting arms, he have double wishbone in the fronts.
only reason he would need them would be to get more negative camber while keeping the car higher (than a hella flush, i mean)

Also, the racelands are dangerous in strut suspension cars, but on double wishbone, where the loads are on the control arms, not on the shocks, the jury is still out.

SilverScyth

So I'm just asking- I shouldn't replace any of the arms or get adjusters? Maybe I misunderstood or have a bit of a skewed view on it but I have always been under the impression that switching to coilovers would call for getting stuff like front upper camber kits, lower front control arms, rear camber kit, rear toe kit, trailing arm bushings....ect ect.. BTW, its awesome you race, always wanted to get into something like that but it seems like a difficult club to get into.

SilverScyth

I will just say this here and now- this reply may or may not offend someone(s). This is MY opinion, you don't have to like it- but I don't have to justify or defend MY opinion....












I dig this style.













This is...stupid.





I do not own these pictures, just found them on the Googles to provide visual stimulation




Unapologeticly yours,
SilverScyth

GolNat

iTrader: (7)

You only really need these things if you are going really low or want to run custom alignment specs. How low that is Idk as I had a 7th gen.

Most of us on here are not in the hella flush scene as it completely ruins the driving of the car but it's a different culture/area of cars and is cool in it's own way.

SilverScyth

GolNat , would it be safe to say that just coilovers then? maybe a bushing kit to freshen up her 20 year old joints? I just don't want to under or over do this build. I rather you all with experience teach me. So far I don't feel lead astray

GolNat

iTrader: (7)

Coilovers would be a great start. You can set the height that works best for your daily driving needs and if you find yourself wanting to go lower or fit a new set of wheels but need more camber you can just raise her back up for the time being. Until you get a set you don't know how low you will want to go. At first I never wanted to lower my ES1 lower then like 1" then before long I was at a finger gap all around. If you find yourself needing camber then just raise the car up until you can get the parts you need. An alignment is needed when heights are changed drastically but a lot of places offer 2 or 5 year alignment plans that are not to bad.

Yes bushings are always nice especially on 20 year old parts. That alone will improve things.

sdaidoji

iTrader: (1)

yep.

get the coilovers and test.
If you see that the negative camber is not enough, then start thinking on the adjustable arms.
I did my fair amount of errors myself. Modified first without due research.. If I had searched and read around, I would have known that getting big front antiroll bar and small rear one in FWD was a bad thing.... Especially in a strut MacPherson car like the 7th gen... Monster understeer because the rear trailing arms would get a large amount of neg camber when i used the eibach pro springs, and the antiroll bars made it even worse for the balance of the car.

since then, I removed the front bar, changed rear to progress bar, added front camber bolts and rear camber arms. Fronts were to get more negative camber, rears were to reduce the negative camber. This is not needed in 6th gen cars as long as you don't go too low.
I corrected the suspension later on because it simply would push too much in autoX competition (amateur racing) and the excessive wheel spin simply damaged my trans... Shards everywhere.

After that, I read around and found out the faults of my modifications and corrected it.

But it still pushes a lot compared to my miatas... It's a FWD with a macpherson front suspension, after all... Your 6th gen with the double wishbone should be better.

start from the link in my signature.

SilverScyth

GolNat
sdaidoji

You fellers have way more info out there than I thought. Lotta good readin.

That said I have a short list now, it's gonna be a really difficult decision as they are all within 100 bucks of each other.

In order of price-

BC $900
ST $876
Progress $844
Tein $817

So here's my take on this, Silver's or KW are a bit overpriced (for ME)... and from what I've seen- they're geared toward racing. Unfortunately they just missed this train.
Going on down the line, I see BC racing, more track oriented. Then ST- the "street performance" division of KW. There is Progress...which look more expensive that what I see them listed for? Then Tein.. and for everyone who can't pronounce it right... its TAIN... like Taint... with out the extra T. Don't take my word for it- call them and listen to the company voice message or watch a product video FROM THEM - NOT some reviewer.

What's on the list seems really good within 100 bucks of each other. Essentially all "name brand" that have some pull in the suspension world.. like race teams or providing suspensions for BMW or MERC. I just cant decide because I've never personally had experience with coilovers At this point I'm excited but don't know which way this rabbit hole is about to lead lol Thank you folks for taking time to be on this journey with me

GolNat

iTrader: (7)

I had Tein on my Fit and they were super comfortable and handled very well. The only issue I had was the springs were not stiff enough to go super lower without rubbing. For my GTI I have considered ST and BC as options. BC seem to run on the stiffer side (track oriented) but that can be more useful when you are trying to minimize wheel gap the most. I had KW's on my Civic and the quality was amazing and the INOX coating made them hold up excellent to the salt. ST being a sister company I know the quality will be there (minus the INOX). Progress Technology make awesome products so I wouldn't hesitate to buy something of theirs.

My brother ran KSport on his Prelude and they actually have held up great and he had no complaints. If it's the first time getting coilovers then you kinda just have to go for it to see what you like and don't like. You can always sell them and try again.

sdaidoji

iTrader: (1)

I personally have always been using springs and shocks, so can't say much about coilovers, sorry.

but TEIN and progress have had good reviews from some members (keep in mind that opinions are like rear ends, everyone have one...). Some hellaflush guys will give stellar reviews about a bump stop riding teeth breaking jarring ride just because it's low enough for them... Stock setups will win over them 30 sec on a 60 sec run in an autoX, I mean...

anyway, the tein and progress seem to be good to start from.
Like golnat said, you can always sell them if they don't fit your tastes.

SilverScyth

Well folks, parts are ordered

Stuck to JUST coil-overs and a polyurethane bushing master kit- pending all oem parts are not bent/damaged

My rack&pinion is still leaking a little, not sure if I should go ahead and order the reman'd ACDELCO one or a rebuild kit.

Will be posting some pics as the projects get done. Thank you all for the help