olioolio

Hello,

I'm hooking up a ProStart ct3271 to a 97 Honda Civic Lx.
I'm following these instructions:
http://www.engines911.com/asdocs/CT_...s40_081031.pdf
http://www.engines911.com/asdocs/CT_...s40_080908.pdf
http://www.bulldogsecurity.com/bdnew...ngdiagrams.asp

I blew one of the 30A fuses on the 6 pin connector when connecting everything. I bought new fuses, made sure all the voltages are correct, tried again, and blew it again.

I think a few things may be related to my issue. First, there are two 12V feeds into the controller. I connected them both to the same 12V wire in the same location, see the two red wires going to the white wire in my picture. Second, I have only connected the six pin and 5 pin connectors as well as the radio transmitter. Should I connect everything? As a side note of this, I don't know how the hood switch works. Should it only have one wire leading to it (as mine does now)? How does it know that a connection is made/broken when the hood is opened/closed? Third, I looked at a few wiring diagrams and they disagree whether my car has a second ignition or second accesories wire. I tested its voltage on crank and it was zero so I assumed accesories. The 5th relay is connected to reflect this. Maybe this could somehow be giving me problems? Finally, when the fuses blow, everything is connected as I mentioned, and then I connect the battery. I'm not sure this is the correct way to do things a first time.

Sorry for the wall of text, any help is appreciated! Thanks ahead of time.

boyd117

you shouldnt have both power wires on one wire is a start...and second you should get rid of your green wire which is probably setup as a second ignition yet it looks like its hooked up to your number one accessory. For now leave the power how it is and put your orange wire on the yellow wire you only need acc 1..prob the reason your poping fuses.

olioolio

Thanks for the help. I tried wiring the red wire which popped the fuse to the ignition wire so it only had power on ignition but that gave the same problem. I had the green wire like that because i thought the yellow was acc #2 and white/black was acc #1. I did have it the way you wrote when trying some stuff and right now green is unplugged. Green can be acc#2, ignition #2, or starter #2 on this module.

I went all out to try to find the problem and i disconnected everything and reconnected wires 1 by 1. Turns out its the parking lights causing me problems. This is where it gets weird though, the parking lights have a 15A fuse but the 30A fuse on the 12V wire pops when only the two 12V wires (red), ground, and the parking lights are hooked up. The red wires are back to the position in the image btw.

The parking lights are hooked up to the red/black wire in the kick panel. I'm looking around to see if I can connect this elsewhere and try again. The current wire is pretty thin so that's why I think I have it wrong somehow. Any idea if this is the correct parking lights wire? Thanks

I wouldn't have a problem not connecting the lights but the module's LED doesn't light up without this circuit being completed and I can't program my remote. Usually it blinks before the fuse pops and then continues to work even though one of the 12V supply wires is not connected due to the fuse.

boyd117

Im curious is this a brand new prostart? Can you get a picture of the back of the module...they make them so you have to select if you are using a -/+ park light with a jumper which could be an issue.

olioolio

Yeah, its new. There's is a picture in the pdfs i linked. I read about the +/- lights and basically I have a choice. One wire is + another is - and only one can be plugged in. The civic is + correct? I remember measuring it although I can't be sure that my multimeter has a negative sign. Let me know if you still need a photo of my module/setup.

boyd117

If you are a 100 % sure that there are two wires for the -/+ lights then I don't need a picture I just know they started using the yellow - park light wire as a negative ignition output. I'm sure you can find a negative wire coming from the headlight switch harness just put your multi meters positive on a constant 12v and test the wires with the negative. Does the starter work without the park lights hooked up?

olioolio

I'll give that a shot now. And no it needs the light circuit to be closed so taht the LED on the receiver works. It may actually be working without it but I have no way of programming it.

boyd117

You can use the starter without having the park lights hooked up. Just push your hood pin down for 4 seconds then let it up and push and release it one more time...then put the key in the ignition turn it on then off and hold the (l) button for about 10 seconds and that will program your transmitter it might be the other botton can't recall.

olioolio

Yeah, I did try that (its the II button ). To be honest I didn't try it more than once though and I might have not timed it well since I have no indication. I'll give it a few more shots.

Yesterday I hooked up the parking lights to a little 12V light I got from the trunk. The other end was connected to ground. Still blew my fuse. I have no idea how this is happening. There must be some problem inside the machine for all I know.

olioolio

So I can light the parking lights myself if I connect the 12V line to the parking lights wire. The module should have no trouble doing this but its relay for the lights must be messed up. Also I can't work the module without the lights so I'm surrendering .

boyd117

Try another brain?

GolNat

iTrader: (7)

I don't think your parking lights are blowing your 30 amp. If your 30 amp fuse is blowing then you have something wired wrong. Something is probably shorting to ground or across another ignition or accessory wire.

olioolio

Maybe, but temperatures went down to -30 C so even the garage is unusable for time being. Perhaps in the summer. Thanks for trying to help .

olioolio

Exactly, especially since the lights have a 15A fuse on them. The fuse blows with just the two powering wires, ground, and lights. Remove lights and add all other connections and it doesn't blow. I have no explanation.