Colin42

'99 Civic, D16Y7, auto, 369,000kms.
Started this morning to move off the drive perfectly fine.
I go to leave for work an hour later and nothing.
Tried boosting it: nothing.
Thought maybe the starter was maybe bad.
Swapped in a spare on lunch, didn't make a difference.
Notice that the dash lights are dim, try boosting with the work vehicle.
Dash lights are still dim, I can hear a relay clicking away like crazy under the dash. Then the dash lights get bright and the clicking stops.
Try starting: nothing.
Wait til lights get bright again and then a couple mins more, still nothing.
The bright dash lights and clicking only happened with the work van (e250) hooked up.
Throw the battery on a charger till I get home.
Put the battery in, still no start.
Battery has 13 volts, connections clean, tight and shiny.
All ground connections (battery, trans, engine/powersteering pump) are clean, tight and shiny on both ends.
Starter connections are clean, tight and shiny.
Battery voltage does not drop when trying to crank.
Starter has battery voltage at big connection.
No blown fuses, ohm checked all the ground cables, nothing wrong.

I did replace the electrical part of the ignition switch last summer, but the symptoms were different when that failed. I'll go poke around in there with a test light again.

Anyone have any ideas?
Thanks in advance

Colin42

Tried the test light. Everything is ok with the key on and off. When I try to crank none of the contacts have power. At one point a bunch relays were buzzing and clicking i caught some of it on video. You can hear it very faintly at the start of the video. Tried cranking several times during the video.
Noticed that the check engine light isnt always illuminating, that means the computer isn't recieving power correct?
Video link: https://youtu.be/9Jo9v1q9j3E

ezone

Volt drop test with test light:

Connect test light to battery + cable bolt in the fuse box.
Stab the point of the test light into the + POST of the battery (not the clamp, the post itself)
Light should be off. Have someone crank it. If it lights up you've got a bad connection somewhere between the two ends of the test light. Bad cable end, bad connection between the cable end and the cable, etc. You can use the test light to follow the path of the cable to find the spot the condition makes a change.

Next clamp the test light to the threaded hot stud and nut of the starter, stab the battery post again. Repeat cranking attempt. Does it light up?


Clip test light to something clean and shiny and grounded metal on the engine block......like the alternator?
Stab the negative POST of the battery. Have someone crank it. If it lights up you've got a bad connection somewhere between the two ends of the light. (ground straps, cable clamps, etc.)


Just kinda sounds like a bad connection somewhere, maybe you can find it with just the test light. Also feel for hot spots along cables and clamps immediately after it won't crank. Heat = resistance.

Colin42

Thank you ezone, will try those out tomorrow

Colin42

Ezone, you are a genius, I can't thank you enough.
Wires going into the positive terminal clamp looked ok, but the actual connection inside the clamp was bad. Took it apart, cleaned the clamp, cut back the wires like half a inch to get to shiny copper, reassembled and fired right up.

I took the flir camera home from work to look in the engine bay. After the key was held down for 10-15 seconds the positive battery clamp was glowing and 3°C warmer compared to everything else.

Did this to double check and yep light came on.

Thank you again ezone

ezone