eager2learn

Google tells me it's the belts but is it the timing belt or accessory belt or tensionor how can I tell?

Wankenstein

Can remove each accessory belt one at a time to isolate. Other than a belt it might be coming from the a/c tensioner pully or waterpump. How many miles on the timing belt?

ezone

Got a recording of the noise?
Can you tell what the conditions are when it makes noise: When does it occur? How often? What are you doing when it happens?
How long does the noise last?

Feel each belts tension
Remove each one at a time to eliminate and isolate

A loose alternator belt might SCREECH loud for a length of time immediately after engine startup....(alternator is working the hardest right after startup, so the belt load is highest)

eager2learn

Yup. You hit the nail on the head. Is this an easy fix?

ezone

4 weeks later? Must not be urgent.
If it's been doing this (making noise) for a significant amount of time, the belt can suffer excessive wear and damage.


Inspect condition and if okay, adjust it tighter (or have your installer adjust it tighter).
It must be adjusted tight enough to not scream under any condition.

It's easy for me....I don't know about you.

eager2learn

Hey ezone,

Cool picture.

My neighborhood garage mechanic told me that belts can loosen via the summer heat and over time and he suggests I replace it since I've no idea when I last replaced it.

I'm going to attempt.

Got any words of wisdom for me?

ezone

Summer heat, really?
So someone in Canada/Alaska/Siberia, in the middle of winter wouldn't ever have a similar loose belt squeal issue even if their mechanic used the cheapest belts on the planet and installed them too loose to begin with?


When I install OEM belts, they don't ever come back squealing later no matter what the temperature is outside. Wonder why?



How bad is the squealing belt now?

How about that timing belt, how old is it?
In our shop we replace the accessory belts along with the timing belt service.



Did YOU replace the last belts or did you have someone else replace them?
Don't forget to tighten the alternator bolts.

eager2learn

It squeals every chance it can get. Even on the road (when I turn on my heater, etc).

I bought this car (99 Civic Ex) used so I didn't replace them.

Looks like I'm going to have to give it a full service.

Is there a way to measure how tight the belts are suppose to be?

eager2learn

Ok so I found this:

http://imgur.com/a/NbKYp

and this:

http://www.gates.com/products/automo...elt-wear-gauge

I'm ready

ezone

Aw hell I linked the wrong year diagram LOL
Sorry

eager2learn

It's okay.

I found instructions on how to remove the power steering belt


The Alternator Belt


The only belt in the way is the A/C compressor belt and I can't find any information.

The manual says to loosen the big golden wheel.



Any advice for me?

ezone

Before you commit to buying stuff, tighten up the alternator belt so it will STFU and you can drive the car without having dogs howling and people staring as you drive by.

In your 2nd video, the kid only appears to loosen the top bolt of his alternator....and presto, it is free to move! That means the bottom bolt was never tight at all. Bad bad bad.
Reach the bottom bolt through the wheel well. 14mm wrench.
As long as that bottom bolt is tight the alternator won't move. You gotta loosen it too. And tighten it when completed.

Also....on the top alt bolt I use a regular wrench, I don't try to stuff a ratchet and socket in that narrow space.


You might need to use a pry bar for leverage to move the alternator, and you may need to keep the prybar in it while tightening the upper bolt because the belt will be trying to pull it back. Yes I use the prybar and the wrench all at the same time, from above.




AC belt uses an idler/adjuster pulley. Loosen center nut #19 (14mm wrench?) maybe 1/2 of a turn so the pulley is free to move, then spin the adjustment bolt #17 (10mm socket/long extension) to move the pulley up or down as needed.
Tighten nut #19 again when you reach desired belt tension





If you are replacing the AC belt you will have to remove the mount bracket under the frame horn in the wheelwell because the leg of the mount sticks through the belt.

eager2learn

niiiiice thank you.

How do I test the desired tension level?

ezone

You must have added the ac belt picture after I clicked on the thread.

You missed the part about the amount of force applied to the belt to cause the deflection.
That's very important.

If there's an actual spec and you don't have the special tools, I'd tell you to judge the weight/force spec by how hard you push or pull, and judge deflection by how far the belt moves while applying that amount of force.

FYI I've never seen any special tools for it at any shop I've ever worked in...nor do I own any.

It's gotta be tight enough to not squeal. Tighter than it is now. Adjust and check. Readjust more if necessary.

eager2learn

awww sheeet.

The pieces of the puzzle are finally coming together.

I've been refilling my radiator a lot lately.

The white powdery substrate on my drive-way.

When I went to check the tension on my alternator belt, it's all gunky.

And the clue that gave it all away.

I found a puddle under my car near the water-pump, timing belt area.

My water pump is leaking and it's been gunking up my alternator belt, which is causing the squeal.

I have to go to a pro for this one.

Case closed boys. We can finally go home.

Thanks for all the help, I'll definitely come back to this thread for reference.

(Can a mod add a [Solved] to my title?)

Thank you.

ezone

THAT would have been handy information to post.....a month ago! LOL

Good find at any rate even if it means more work


And HEY if it's been overheated (what was your clue it needed coolant?) it may have blown the head gasket, or worse.
Just yesterday someone brought in a nice (recently purchased used) Acura MDX and said they want the oil switch replaced because the oil warning light comes on while going around turns and google searching said it needs a switch.

Oh yeah, the check engine light is on, see what it needs.
(Code was like P2646? rocker arm pressure switch something bla bla bla)


Apparently google never told the guy to check his oil.
Guess what I found.......or didn't find, as the case may be

eager2learn

LOL. Gotta love simple repairs

My car did overheat and I did see chocolate-milk sludge of my oil cap.

or worse? what could be worse than a blown headgasket.

Well I put blue devil headgasket sealant inside and it stopped that.

Let's see if the waterpump replacement fixes my coolant leakage.

ezone

Depends on just how hot it got.
Warped head, collapsed rings, compromised cooling system hoses, damaged rubber gaskets, melted aluminum parts.

THAT can be worse than the original head gasket problem IMO.

eager2learn

This stuff works. Fixed my headgasket issue on my green 99 civic lx. (1 year running).

and this white one now. no oil leaks, coolant. this is just a temporary fix. I'm going to put a new engine in.