Opinions on which capacitor is better?????
#1
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I need a capacitor/lightning cap for my system and I need help deciding on which one to buy. I'm looking at either a Power Acoustik 2.4 Farad Digital Capacitor or Lightning Audio LS10
Strike Series 1-Farad Capacitor. If anyone knows anything about capacitors please help. I would assume the large Farad would be better but I don't know why just seems that it would be. Last question, how are these usually mounted and kept stable?
Strike Series 1-Farad Capacitor. If anyone knows anything about capacitors please help. I would assume the large Farad would be better but I don't know why just seems that it would be. Last question, how are these usually mounted and kept stable?
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Rep Power: 0 2.4 farads is a lot of power, what amps are you going to be using? You might only need a 1 farad cap. Some metal straps could be used to secure the caps in place.
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Rep Power: 0 None, my lights are dimming just a tad, should I get a capacitor or should I just go about my business and let my lights dim? I thought an capacitor would be a good idea to take some of the strain off of my battery and alternator? Am I wrong? What are you referring to when you say E-system. Electrical?
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Rep Power: 0 Hi Noah,
I Cap doesn't take any strain off your electrical system..it just keeps voltage a little more stable. If your lights are dimming just slightly and it's annoying you. a 1 farad cap will take care of the problem.
Cheers
Mohawk
I Cap doesn't take any strain off your electrical system..it just keeps voltage a little more stable. If your lights are dimming just slightly and it's annoying you. a 1 farad cap will take care of the problem.
Cheers
Mohawk
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[hr]Originally posted by: mohawkboom
I Cap doesn't take any strain off your electrical system..[hr]
[hr]Originally posted by: mohawkboom
I Cap doesn't take any strain off your electrical system..[hr]
a capacitor is just a bandaid. if your not gonna upgrade yoru alternator, its not worth the money for a cap.
again, am i the only person who doesnt care about dimming? and if you DO care about dimming, why stick a bandaid over the problem? if your gonna fix it, why not solve the problem at the source?
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Rep Power: 0 Band-aid= $99 Proper cure=$600+ hmm... ALso it's not a bif strain in the least bit on an electrical system..fo an SPL system where every incling of current matters..it's a NoNo..in an every day system for someone who doesn;t want dimming..it's a oerfect solution..
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Rep Power: 313 even another battery is a strain on teh E-system.
anytime you add something that draws power, you are straining your E-system.
you cant argue that a capacitor has enough power to power yoru amp for a bass hit, and yet not draw the current from the alternator to provide.
and besides, you can get alternators or alternator rewraps for $300. the rewrap is fine as long as you get a warrantee with it......
Hell, there is a shop in san ho that will do it, all you have to do is bring your alternator to them in a shoebox, they will take care of you.
anytime you add something that draws power, you are straining your E-system.
you cant argue that a capacitor has enough power to power yoru amp for a bass hit, and yet not draw the current from the alternator to provide.
and besides, you can get alternators or alternator rewraps for $300. the rewrap is fine as long as you get a warrantee with it......
Hell, there is a shop in san ho that will do it, all you have to do is bring your alternator to them in a shoebox, they will take care of you.
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Rep Power: 0 rewinds on our medium case uncolled mitsubishi alternators can yield a reliable 90amps..or a sletchy 120amps(alt will run VERY HOT)..a can is a strain in the decivolt range so it's not a biggie.. Unless a person listens to speedmetal and the like where the bass and double kickdrums are non-stop..a cap does it's job...[IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG]
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Rep Power: 0 Not everyone's like us and will go to great lengths to solve the problem completely and not just cover it up. While covering it up with a cap in this case is the cheapest and most practicle solution..it will work for him. We both run 1/0 Guage wire when 4 guage is plenty..I have a 160amp alternator, My cars about 120lbs heavier with sound deadening mat..sound absorbing foam, and great stuff minimal expanding foam...your glassing your trunk....most folks don't want to go to such great lengths...some say we're nucking futs...we say their nucking futs for not going through such great lengths for the proper solutions....C'est la vie
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Rep Power: 313 im glassing my trunk cause tere is no way to fit a box bigger than net 6 cubes in a civic coupe. its actually the ONLY solution to that problem.
just like the ONLY solution to the problem of inadequate current supply is a new alternator.....
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[hr]Originally posted by: WhiteRabbit
im glassing my trunk cause tere is no way to fit a box bigger than net 6 cubes in a civic coupe. its actually the ONLY solution to that problem.
just like the ONLY solution to the problem of inadequate current supply is a new alternator.....[hr]
[hr]Originally posted by: WhiteRabbit
im glassing my trunk cause tere is no way to fit a box bigger than net 6 cubes in a civic coupe. its actually the ONLY solution to that problem.
just like the ONLY solution to the problem of inadequate current supply is a new alternator.....[hr]
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Rep Power: 313 actually, you will find that i am right, and that it IS the ONLY solution. tell me another way to fit a 12 cube box in my civic.
and in teh same way, dimming lights is indicative of a problem. the problem if inadequate current supply. and the only way to fix THAT problem is a new alternator. caps and batteries are only a bandaid, and can strain the alternator much worse than teh amp alone.
like a bandpass box. they sound clean right? cause the distorted frequencies dont come out of the port? sounds like a good solution to distorted bass.........
untill you overstrees the sub and get either thermal or mechanical failure.........
a bunch of caps and batteries will only further stress you E system...tho you may not notice it....till your alternator goes out, or fails and starts sending spikes through the E-system...... if yoru voltage regulators also fail at that time, it wouldnt be to safe to be the ECU at that time..... has anyones ECU ever fail here, and the shop blamed the alternator? ......hmmm.......
and in teh same way, dimming lights is indicative of a problem. the problem if inadequate current supply. and the only way to fix THAT problem is a new alternator. caps and batteries are only a bandaid, and can strain the alternator much worse than teh amp alone.
like a bandpass box. they sound clean right? cause the distorted frequencies dont come out of the port? sounds like a good solution to distorted bass.........
untill you overstrees the sub and get either thermal or mechanical failure.........
a bunch of caps and batteries will only further stress you E system...tho you may not notice it....till your alternator goes out, or fails and starts sending spikes through the E-system...... if yoru voltage regulators also fail at that time, it wouldnt be to safe to be the ECU at that time..... has anyones ECU ever fail here, and the shop blamed the alternator? ......hmmm.......
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Rep Power: 0 Your absolutely right for systems with more current draw than the alternator can put out.. however the change from say 13.8 volts to 12.2 volts for a bass hit which causes minor dimming is not a problem if theaverage voltage level remains over 12.8 volts..which in this case it definately should. There is not real inadequecy of his electrical system. As it will still leave the battery charging. Therefore a preventative to annoyance (dimming) would b a reasonable solution used only to prevent annoyance (dimming)... also...do you still hold true that a 70amp OEM Alternator is safe to run any wattage of a system?
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Rep Power: 313 i never said any, but yes, my stock alternator and bettery will do me just fine when i hook up my 1200.1 with a 2 ohm load.......
even for 5 hour car drives........
even for 5 hour car drives........
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Rep Power: 313 like i said, the dimming doesnt bother me.
when it starts to audible affect sound, then it bugs me.
I dont have problems like dead batteries and fried computers when im on teh road. and i predict that trend will continue when i get my box built by august.
when it starts to audible affect sound, then it bugs me.
I dont have problems like dead batteries and fried computers when im on teh road. and i predict that trend will continue when i get my box built by august.
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Rep Power: 0 Hey guys thanks for the help. I do like to "SOLVE" problems and not just cover them up. I run 1/0 gauge like you guys said where you can get away with 4-gauge. I run 4 gauge where you could get away with 8. So the dimming lights alone, no audio deficiencies or none that are noticeable will be O.K.? Will the dimming lights eventually do something else catastrophic or should this be the only thing that should happen? I don't mind the dimming that much I'm really worried about what the dimming might do in the long run like kill my alternator or whatever.
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Rep Power: 0 Slight dimming won't do much to your electrical system..your lights dim when the A/C Clutch engages..your lights dim sightly when you use power windows(if you have em, unlike me) it's just a temporary voltage drop..most likely not even dropping below 12 volts at any time.. it's nothing to worry about if it doesn't annoy you..as long as your not dimming with EVERY bass hit..you'll be allright.
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Rep Power: 0 A CAPACITOR will do your job. true, it might not be better than getting a new alternator, but also TRU that it IS better than nothing. the capacitor can store some power so that when your amp asks for it, it will be there.. so just go with the $100 capacitor.capacitors are great and are used in elmost everything electronic that requires power. How else do you think a 1.5 volt battery can light up the flash of a camera?? with the freaking CAPACITOR. and if you get the capacitor, be SUREEE to wire it in PARALLEL and NOT in SERIES.
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