JackImpact

I cant seem to find a good ground. My headlights are flickering =[

halp?

lazlong

1. Headlights flickering= pulling too much juice from the amp? Need a high output alt? Big 3 ground kit?

2. What size amp(s)?

3. Where are you trying to ground? Any piece of bare metal (as long as it's touching the chassis) will work. I've had to scrape a little paint before.

4. Are you using large enough gauge of wire?

EDIT: First! hahahahahahahaha

JackImpact

1 + 2.Small amp. Rockford Fosgate Punch 225.2
http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/libra...25-225-man.pdf

3. Im using the bolt that holds my rear seats down. I put the bolt in after sanding off the paint and then put the seat on it.

4. The main power wire is 1/0 and then the power wire going to the amp is 4. Also the ground is 4. And there is a 1/0 gauge ground going from battery negative to chassis.

lazlong

Assuming 2 channels, 4 ohm load- that's only 225 watts (small). 2 ohm loads is 450 watts (not real small).

That bolt should work, it's welded to the chassis (or I thought it was). Maybe try another bolt. Or put a ring terminal on the wire and run your own self-tap screw into the chassis. ***Be VERY careful when doing this, double and triple check that where you're screwing isn't going to pinch wires or puncture the brake lines or fuel lines/tank.

Wire gauge seems good. hmmm... gonna have to think on it a minute. Someone will come along. Or PM electric130.

JackImpact

Im gonna play around with the gain tomorrow and the bass **** thats on the amp and see if it stops, if not then ill tap a screw into that bar where the back seats and trunk meet and try it there.

Kennykid2002

iTrader: (1)

Upgrade to HIDs, the ballast will output constant power, no headlight flicker

Best ground would be grounding to the battery negative

lazlong

That would be a for me.

(Just like using this one. lol)

cassie.JDM

My car stopped doing that after i got HIDS. Also, you could try buying a capacitor..

JackImpact

I have a 1/0 gauge wire going from the battery negative to the chassis.

Would a 1 farad capacitor be fine?

Kennykid2002

iTrader: (1)

.5f Cap would be enough, but 1f would be fine, HIDs are cool though :P

JackImpact

A lot more expensive and more work lol

Plus Id want to do the retrofit so I dont blind people like a tool and I think Id only mess that up.

Kennykid2002

iTrader: (1)

-Le shrug-
I have HIDs in stock housing non retrofit
Not really that bad of glare

And HIDs are plug and play, literally took me 15 mins to install em

cassie.JDM

Noo hids are soo easy to install....i just got 8ks for mine like a month ago &took me like 20 mins to get it done...trust me, if a girl can do it, you can deff get it done lol

and not that expensive too, i paid $60 for mine but you can buy yourself a set on ebay for like $40

Kennykid2002

iTrader: (1)

I bought 4 pairs off ebay for $38 a pop
Thinking about getting another pair for the V

boyd117

Don't waist your time or money with buying a cap, its just a band aid to the electrical system that really does nothing but make your alt work harder to fill it. Your best bet if you want to get rid of it would be a new battery with better cranking amps and amp hours. Along with that run 0 gauge from the negative on the batt to the radiator support...from the rad support to the block of the motor...then 0 gauge from the pos terminal of the batt to the poss connection on the alternator. Along with that a good ground would be to drive a self tapper into the floor under your trunk carpet...take a drill with a sanding bit to the paint before hand.

I'll take a picture of all my connection points tomorrow and post them for you. I run a total of 1400 rms watts and roughly 150 amps...something I haven't done yet that also help is to get the alt rewired for more output amps.

JackImpact

Thanks boyd.

Would this kit work Kenny?

http://www.amazon.com/JLM-Xenon-Conv...82/ref=lh_ni_t

Im not that good with cars, I have no idea where half those places you mentioned are, Id have to go out and buy more 0 gauge wire and ring terminals to run those connections. My friend thinks its a bad ground and Im afraid to drill a screw into the trunk floor because I dont really know where the gas tank is.

Kennykid2002

iTrader: (1)

Its almost def not a bad ground,
You're amp is just pulling too much power.
Your electrical system compensates by reducing the power sent out to the other electricals.

A cap would help but a lot of people look down on them because it puts strain on the alternator to keep up with charging it.
Getting the alternator rewound for high output will help too

But if you're just concerned about your headlights the HID is a quick fix and helps you see better at night too

& I'm not so certain about that kit Jack, I look at things very suspiciously when they are like 80% off, especially with electrical stuff.

I got my many HID kits off ebay, off one seller. They all seem to be pretty good quality for chinese brand
http://cgi6.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...hidfusionstore

JackImpact

Do I need a new alternator and battery?

What battery do you recommend?

Are there different kinds of alternators? Teach me!

Also, I prefer my light to be as white as possible, also I have no idea which model light my lights will take. Please help me, Im retarded.

Also come vacation at my house in Florida and do all the work for me.

I have cigars and beer and cookies.

Kennykid2002

iTrader: (1)

If you're still running stock battery, probably should look into upgrading, something of same size, with higher CCA
I'm currently running an ACDelco battery, which runs pretty strong.

There are stock alternators, aftermarket stock alternators, and there are high output alternators
The high output ones crank out more amps to keep your battery topped off, which in turn keeps your electronics happy in the car.

If you want them white, Probably anywhere from 4500K up to 6000K is good
I bought 6000K's and they turn on kinda blue, but seem to fade to pure white
We use H4/HB2/9003 size in our headlights. Same bulb, different size names.

And are you supplying the tickets?

lowlife9

get DDM tuning raptor kit there 30 dollars lifetime warranty your going to want the 35 watt 5,000k for the whitest light
http://www.ddmtuning.com/Products/Ap...Raptor-HID-Kit
and the best bang for buck battery to get is DURALAST GOLD TOP from Autozone.

JackImpact

Im looking at this battery.

http://www.amazon.com/Optima-Batteri.../dp/B00075OSD8

Good?

This might be better:

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...30110_27319_0_

lowlife9

i got the largest gold top that would fit in there i had to modify the battery tray by flattening the edges but it fit perfectly. its like the size of two stock batteries.

boyd117

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...N-SK-BT60.html

Kennykid2002

iTrader: (1)

Apparently, according to gearbox here on forums, Optima has problems with size 51 batteries
Although I think their batteries are great, I would probably look elsewhere.

Honestly, a battery upgrade would not guarantee solving a dimming issue
I'd get the best/cheapest battery with longest warranty, and spend the rest of the money on a cap or a HID kit

boyd117

0 gauge splits to 4 gauge, grounds are self tapped into the floor as shown


rad support to batt


rad support to block...power wire going to across rad to alt


power wire going to alt


Even with my walmart winter battery don't have power problems.

Looks like I'm cleaning my engine bay

JackImpact

1. That battery is awesome, but will it fit and how the hell do I connect it?

2. Kenny, you know how I am so recommend a capacitor and link the "white" hid kit from your ebay guy that will fit my car (also I owe you big time for putting up with me)

3. Thanks so much for the pics, is it possible for you to use mspaint and make red circles and such so i can see it more clearly, Im quite bad at working on my own car, Although I have yet to shock myself!

Gunner

I did one picture for you...Look in the other pictures for the cable that look like what i circled...in the last picture its the red one..

JackImpact

Thanks gunner! All I need is the connection points circled or something so I can see em better lol, that helps :P

TiggerDX

iTrader: (1)

Keep in mind that the amps that Boyd uses are digital amps. (I have the same ones) They have a much lower current draw than the Fosgate amps, so will have less impact on electrical draw (although I still dim my lights a little on really heavy bass)

JackImpact

I want them so bad =[ SO PRETTTTYYYY