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thought i would just start a new thread since i have alot of questions. im looking to upgrade my rear and front speakers and add tweeters.

tweeters: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_130TST1...0&ssi=0&tp=107

speakers front and rear: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_158GT16...S-GT1626A.html

is this the "proper" way of wiring the tweeter to the speaker. according to crutchfield people the speaker and tweeter will work together as a simple swap and remove of stock speakers with the addition of the tweeters. I was told i can splice the tweeter to the speaker.(see picture)

 
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Anybody?

 
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Splicing stock speaker wires will change the Ohm impedance level of the speakers, meaning, in time they will damage your speakers, and tweeters.

It will work for a temp ghetto rig, but not in the long run

The "best" way to do it is to prolly run the speakers through an amp, and run stock speaker wires to tweeters


& Also, please don't get Sony any kind of speakers, Head units are okay for Sony, just don't get any of their speakers

 
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Is there anyway to do this wirhout adding an amp i have an aftermarket head unit if that helps.also can u recomrnd speakers

 
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Aftermarket HU doesn't help with anything

You could splice it, if you dont plan to keep your car for a long time, and not going to blast the music all the time

I would just ghetto rig it that way for now, until you can find an amp

Or, you can just get 3 way speakers (speaker with tweeter inside)

I recommend Polk, Infinity, JL audio, Rockford Fosgate, Pioneer, JBL, MTX
I wouldnt go for anything lower than those basically
Maybe kenwood and alpines, maybe...

TBH, I'm more biased towards Polk and JL because of their brand name....and thats what I have in my system

You don't have to break the bank for these high end audio...
I bought my set of Polk DB651's off craigslist, brand spanking new for $50, when they retail for about 100
The guy also offered me a set of infinity reference speakers brand new for $30 extra

If you're in the west coast, Fry's Electronics had a sale for polks $50 too

Keep your eye out for good deals
And if you cant find any, Pioneers go low priced for less than $50, and they are pretty decent

http://www.dealercostcaraudio.com has some really good deals on all car audio
$99+ is free shipping, $9.50 flat rate for everything less than 99

$100 bucks for a set of JL 6.5's is a real deal steal

 
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I dont blast my music or listen all the time. What kind of long term damage are we talking? Now how would i wire the tweets to the speakers? Is my diagram correct

 
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Long term damage
Meaning your speakers might eventually blow, thats not for certain

And yea, just splice into the wires before harness, and run wires to the tweeters

I would just get some 3 way speakers, less hassle :P

 
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http://www.crutchfield.com/p_020SRQ1...106&tab=review
Or
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_575R152...owAll=N&tp=106
will this work for me? I would just use the speakers since i have my own tweeters

 
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the fostgate speakers look like this


im leaning towards the fosgates. this removes the splicing part right? and just directly connect the tweeter the extra terminal on the main speaker?

 
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I'm not totally sure and someone can correct me if I'm wrong. You would need an amp for the fosgate speakers you speak of.

 
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Yep,
But if you already have tweeters, why get components?

If you want to get the best out of the speakers, you might as well use the tweeters they give you

Idk what the diff between R152's and P152's are, but the P152's are bout 3x the RMS range as the R152's (and only 20 bucks more!)

But if you're just powering them from the HU without amp, I doubt you'll get over 50RMS a speaker anyways...

 
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so i dont need an amp correct? and wiring is pretty much what i have pictured. well i happen to already have the pioneer Ts-t110 tweeters. but i will see which one will fit better in the ex door sails. correct me if im wrong but either tweeter should work

 
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Nope, you dont have to

The RF tweeters would be more compatible to the speakers, but i have no idea the mounting depth of the tweeters
I looked at my tweeters before, and they look very shallow, with a screw in the back to hold it in

 
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great thanks. im gonna order these tonight. tweeters are pretty similar in specs

 
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Factory wiring can support any type of speakers, however, if you want to get the best out of your speakers, you'd want to get an amp

Factory would get you about 10RMS per channel on stock speakers
After Market HU would prolly get you about 20RMS per channel

If the speakers are rated at 200 Peak power, and 100RMS, would not reach full potential.
It would prolly need a 400~500 watt amp to power them

Would factory wiring work? yes
Would it sound good? no

 
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you have these tweeters?

 
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Sorry, I just checked the specs and they are running 2-40 watts RMS so you don't need an amp my bad...

 
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I'm saying that the RF would sound better if it was with it's own RF tweeters, instead of your pioneers

But thats up to you

I took out my stock tweeters today, since i was working on my broken lock actuator

And our tweeters have a 1CM mounting depth

 
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thanks for that..i just got the door sails in the mail and the pioneers sit right on top of the opening of the sail it self. i also looked at the manual online on the RF tweeters and there diagram looks to be about the same size as my pioneers. so looks like i w ill try to use the RF on the door sails first.

 
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All tweeters look the same, lol

Same as all 6.5's
Except some have different mounting depths (Depending on the size of the magnet)

and those pioneers look like they stick out alot
I was thinking about getting some blue glowing Duals to make it look flush with my blue LED interior

Since duals are crap and only 20 bucks from walmart, and my Polks do all the work anyways, i was just gonna use them for the LEDs :P

 
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it looks like it sticks out cause i just have them sitting on the opening and not mounted. i wanted to see if they would line up and much i would have to shave off.

 
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whats a good grit to sand down teh corners with.

 
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The more you have to shave off, the lower the grit (more coarse)
The smoother you want it, the higher the grit

Normally, any sanding should move from lower - higher grit

Depending on the texture you want, and how much work you need done

 
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woot okay just finished installing ran into a few bumps but everything is in place and working. will post and finish testing tomorrow

 
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Nice, Too bad the tweeters are not stock looking

How does it sound?

 
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actually the tweeters dont look to bad inperson...sounds way better than stock...one problem my passenger side window wont roll up or down..its connected too it wont even go down from the drivers controlls

 
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ok passenger side window fuse only blows when tried to be opened form drivers switch but if i put a new fuse and dont touch the control for the passenger window from the drivers side the passenger window works fine. only when i press the switch for the passenger from the driver side does that fuse blow. im thinking its a bad switch? anyone have a part number? cant seem to find it on http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com

 
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Make sure the wires, speakers and electric window, are not touching anything metal, or each other, clean the wires in the adapter

Try testing the harness by removing the clip, and using a wire to touch the connect the pos/neg wires together, window should go down/up

Adapter should have 3 terminals
Pos Pos Neg

One for up, one for down

 
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which harness are you talking about? the molex looking clip in the master switch?if also the wires are not exposed so shouldnt it tbe ok to be touching? they are all bunched together. the fuse on the passenger window blows only when i tried to close/open from the master switch- drivers side.