EM2Driver

Hey guys, I just got 2 subs in a dual ported box with amp from a buddy and am looking into hooking it up to my car. I have a 2002 Honda Civic LX 2 door with stock head unit and speakers. My main concern is will i be able to hook up the amp to my stock head unit without having to buy an aftermarket one? Also what gauge wire would you recommend?

If it helps the amp is a Jensen XA2250 250 Watt RMS, 2-Channel Amplifier

# POWER OUTPUT Number of Channels 2
# Peak Power Per Channel @ 4 ohm 250
# RMS Power Per Channel @ 4ohm 125
# Peak Power Per Channel @ 2 ohm 350
# RMS Power Per Channel @ 2ohm 175
# Peak Power Bridged @ 4 ohm 600
# RMS Power Bridged @ 4 ohm 300

The subs are Pioneers i think they are 10", dunno the model or specs since they are already a few years old.

thanks guys, im totally new with car audio.

DsevenEm2

iTrader: (6)

if you are going to use your stock radio you need to buy a converter.... itll splice the rear speakers to work with ur sub.. so whenever u turn the bass up or down with your factory head unit, not only does the subs bass go down, but so does all your other speakers as well.. a trick i did was use the fade option in the unit instead of the bass... turn the fade to the front of the car or to the rear.. the more towards the rear, the louder the bass and vice versa.. im using 8 gauge wire (i think.. dont rmemeber, could be wrong..)

EM2Driver

thanks for replying for back. Where do you think i could find this converter and do you know any brands that you would recommend? Also would this have any effect on the amp/quality of the bass? On my amp i do have an option of bass boost also.. Currently i have my stock radio at full bass and treble.

chawski

iTrader: (1)

with a stock head unit i really think its gonna sound pretty bad. the only reason is that you arent gonna have adjustable bass for the subs and speakers. i think youre gonna find that the bass is gonna have 10x the presence of the highs and mids and all you are gonna hear is bass. i would recommend taking a look for a cheap hu with a separate sub control. another option is a bass control from the amp. i know rockford fosgate makes one. this allows you to control the power to the amp relatively independant of the hu volume

mike21190

yea i would definetely upgrade the HU. it will make the speakers sound better and it will be easier to hook up the sub

phuviano

iTrader: (5)

I always tell people not to use the stock deck when using subs, yet everyone wants to do it. I never understood that mentality. Yes you save some money, but it sounds like crap. Why would you want to "upgrade" your stereo to bad sound quality.

I installed my neighbour's stereo system. I told him it would sound like $hit if he didn't buy an aftermarket deck with sub pre-outs. He insists on using the stock deck. So I installed the darn thing, and it sounds like crap imo. My neighbour says "it sounds like crap". I look at him in silence. I walk away and go home.

Imo the deck is probably the single most important part of your stereo system. Virtually everything gets processed through it. I've tuned my stock speakers so well, everyone used to ask me how much my speakers cost. When I told them they were stock, they were always surprised. Of course that's from a high end deck.

I'm not saying you should get the most expensive deck you see, but get something at least with separate pre-outs for the subs. You'll have better control over the sound that's coming out of the deck.

For wiring of the amp. I would suggest 4 gauge wire. Some may say you could get away with 8 gauge, but why cheap out. 4 gauge will be more than enough. I've had many problems with 8 gauge wiring on small system before. I've never had any issues with 4 gauge wiring on low powered systems.

If you are going to do something. Do it right the first time around. It'll cost you more in the long run if you don't, and it'll cause more headaches.

DsevenEm2

iTrader: (6)

im running my sub off of my stock headunit.. with the converter.. sounds great to me

i wasnt recommending using the facotry head unit.. but since he asked if he could, i told him yea and what hes got to do to make it work just fine.. like mine.

the only reason i never upgraded from oem was because i like how clean the oem interface is.. and just never bothered. you can find the converter from crutchfield.com...

upgrading your headunit would be a good idea i guess. depends on where ur going with ur system.. mine works just fine for me.. 1300 watt sub powered with an 800 watt amp and upgraded pioneer speakers all around.. my system is very decent..

and i checked on wiring.. mine is 4gauge

EM2Driver

Well today i went visions because im looking at the Alpine CDE-9881 and also at the same time asked about the converter..Basically they install guys there told me the amp/subs would work and that i could leave the oem head unit, only problem is i can control the level of bass for the subs from inside the car and would always have to go to my trunk and adjust from my amp.

Like DsevenEm2 said it would still work just have to work out the fade on the oem head unit.

So right now im just really debating on what to do, the alpine deck is on sale on from 220 to 200, then maybe id do the install on my own after.

phuviano

iTrader: (5)

The alpine CDE-9881 is a perfectly fine deck. If you really want to experiment, you could install the high level converter first and determine if you like the sound or not. You could always get the deck afterwards.

Btw, are you doing this install yourself or are you paying someone to do it???

DsevenEm2

iTrader: (6)

get the deck itll probably be easier and better in the long run.. remmeber i only use my oem setup becuz i like how it looks over an aftermarket deck

EM2Driver

well i dont really want to go waste money and time trying both, i think i might just go with the alpine deck, i got till the 28 to decide since thats the last day for the sale.

I'm thinking id do to install myself, might even ask a buddy to help out.

mike21190

the install of the HU is very easy. crutchfield.com gives very good instructions

EM2Driver

Well i went out today and got my head unit and all the wiring. its the Alpine cde-9881, Alpine 2 channel audio rca wires, and Stinger 8 gauge power wiring kit.

My only worry is i dunno what the length of the should be, i told the guys what car i had and that the amp would be set in my trunk. The Rca wires are: 5.5m/18.04ft. The power kit comes with: 20 ft - 8 gauge blue hmp power wire, 3 ft - 8 gauge clear hpm ground wire, 17 ft - 8 gauge blue turn-on wire, platnium finish AGU fuse holder with 60 Amp AGU Fuse.

christmaspie

Those amp wiring lengths should be fine. So wait, I'm confused. Are you just running the wires for the amp for a future time or did you decide to get both the deck and amp?

Maverick_1337

im running stock deck with 4gauge and it dosent sound to bad. and i turn the bass up and down with a preamp.

EM2Driver

I already got the amp and subs from my buddy on Thursday, and yesterday i bought the head unit and all the wiring. so i'm planning to hook it all up.

Another question i have is. When you guys removed your oem head unit, and installed your aftermarket..did you have to bypass the immobilizer or anything like that since the oem radio has the anti-theft light flashing always?

phuviano

iTrader: (5)

No bypassing or anything needed. The immobilizer has nothing to do with the radio. Just make sure you buy an installation kit as well. The stock deck has a security code you have enter, every time you disconnect the power from it.

EM2Driver

ok perfect, because i thought maybe it was some how connected. Wouldn't the after market head unit just slide in to the original spot and you just have to screw it down with the accessories that come with it? I was looking at the crutchfield(sp) install site and they didn't mention anything about the install kit.

phuviano

iTrader: (5)

The stock deck is screwed down, so any aftermarket deck you have to screw down. Trust me, I've installed 5 different decks in my 7thgen. You don't have to get the installation kit, but you'll have a big gap around you deck.

Here's a link to the installation kit I used.

http://www.metraonline.com/products.aspx

You have to search for your car, and select "kit" as the product you want to search. It doesn't allow me to give a direct link.

EM2Driver

i see what you mean. ill have to look into that then, but im not in a huge rush for that. Thanks for your help.

I'm also wondering when routing my rca wires, im planning to go down the driver side..when you get to the kicker pannel and foot rest, where is the best place to route the wires from there? and do I have to remove the rear side panels under the rear quarter window to get the wire in the trunk?

EM2Driver

hey guys i got a problem, this morning i decided to start my install. so i ran my rca wires down the driver side and when i got to the trunk/gas release i took the bolt off that holds it in place so that i could get the wire under it. The problem is when i put the panel back and everything i cant pull up on the handle to open my trunk anymore. Does anyone know a solution to this?

and also do i have to remove the rear side panels to make sure the wire has a clear path?

wallydude03

make sure you didnt put the trunk release lock in the wrong way
also your rca cable might be wedged in the locking mechanism

and you dont have to remove your rear panels to put the wire through the back. take a coat hanger, and pull your RCA cable through the back of the trunk where the gas tank trunk release cable goes

EM2Driver

I took everything apart and removed the rca wire i put in, and i noticed that when i took out the release lever unit i didn't angle it properly so my lock wasn't in the hole properly and didnt have the clearance to pull up...But now i got a whole new problem, my gas release cable has broken, which would cost me $36 CDN for the part and $110/ hour CDN and it takes 1.5 hours to replace.

so ive decided to get everything done professionally instead of me ****ing up my car like i already did. Has anyone one here tried the fuel door fix? its advertised on the main page right side bar.

phuviano

iTrader: (5)

Did you at least get your system setup??

$110 an hour, that's nuts.

EM2Driver

no i didnt, im getting that done next thursday. I know tell me about it insane price. I think my only other option is to get the fuel door fix thing that advertised on the main page. Right now im at a full tank of gas but with winter here it would suck if i cant open my fuel door at all