OPGForce

When my car is idle, the headlights dim at 3/4 volume, and the gains are set half way on the 2 amps power 2 Alpine Type-R subs. Even when I am driving in 5th gear, and the RPM is at 3000, they still dim when the bass hits. I am running 1000 Watts RMS total, with 3 class A/B Alpine amps and a 1 farad cap connected to the 2 sub amps. How many (amps) would I need from a high output alternator to power my car assesories and system (planning to get a radar detector and neons inside and out of the car later too)? Also, I am getting a new Optima 34 Red Top battery. Also, I pland to replace the wiring under the hood between the alternator and battery to 0/1 AWG or 2 AWG. Any thoughts on if this will work???

UncleB

that's nothing. my lights dim when I put my windows up/down. its horrible.

Swifty

Well 1/0awg is twice as big as 2awg and the 2awg will be fine considdering the short distance it has to travel....hold off on the alternator for now and try the Optima red top first...I installed a system in one of my cars for a SPL contest (this was just for one day) and when the bass hit my voltage dropped to 8.5v and almost stalled the car....so I dropped in an Optima and it stayed at a rock solid 12v...I'm not saying you dont need the alternator, but get the battery first

Just my $0.02

slickgreen

I have a amp pusing jl audio subs and a amp pusing 6 by 9s also running about the same amount of ampage.But i also have indigols, two black lights,strobes,and fog lights and i have no problem with the headlights dimming on me

AzNMan

<< When my car is idle, the headlights dim at 3/4 volume, and the gains are set half way on the 2 amps power 2 Alpine Type-R subs. Even when I am driving in 5th gear, and the RPM is at 3000, they still dim when the bass hits. I am running 1000 Watts RMS total, with 3 class A/B Alpine amps and a 1 farad cap connected to the 2 sub amps. How many (amps) would I need from a high output alternator to power my car assesories and system (planning to get a radar detector and neons inside and out of the car later too)? Also, I am getting a new Optima 34 Red Top battery. Also, I pland to replace the wiring under the hood between the alternator and battery to 0/1 AWG or 2 AWG. Any thoughts on if this will work??? >>




try turning down ur gains or get a cap

AlphaInfinity

.5 Cap worked for me, and there is no dimming on the lights, even with the AC. The .5 is great for 500 watt systems. Rockford Fosgate also has a 1.0 for those who have the 1000 watt systems.

L8tr

mohawkboom

iTrader: (1)

1000Wrms of class A/B power will kill your electrical system. An Optima red top or other deep cycle battery is a definate requirement. Also a 1 farad capacitor. This Might do the trick.. but just maybe... try that.. crank your system up and watch your Voltage at the power and ground wire connections on one of your amps. If at any point it dips below 12.8 volts for more than a few seconds and does it regularly you need a H/O Alternator.. or get rid of the class A/B amps and get a good Class D amp.... Have a friend sit in the car and hold the engine at a steady 2500Rpms when you do this test. (don't just swap parts and see the results and judge by that.. do some actual testing..it's the only way to actually find out)

Cheers
Mohawk.

slikor

iTrader: (1)

in addition to the diff battery, you could try adding another 1 farad cap [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG] or, maybe you could have 2 batteries or something...