slvrcivic

iTrader: (1)

I've looked all over the site for wiring info. No one seems to have the same idea, or setup as me, so I'm just going to ask.

In my last vehicle, I used a 4 channel amp, replaced the speaker wiring, and put all new speakers, and head unit in. No sub, just 4 door speakers.

Now my civic ex 2002 has the four speakers as well - and the tweets in the front.

I just went out and bought polk 6x9's for the rear, and polk 6.5's for the front. I also have a head unit with dual rca outs. So I just planned on running new speaker wires to the new 4 speakers from the amp. Easy enough. Rca's from the new cd player to the amp.

The only thing I'm wondering, is what to do with the stock tweeters. Just disconnect them, leave them be, or what.

The front Polk 6.5's have a tweeter in them, so I guess it would take the place of the stock ones. The other issue, is that I don't know how the wiring is for those tweeters.

I picked up a wiring harness so I don't have to splice anything into my dash. I want a neat install so I can remove it easily if needed. So I figured if I just hooked up the wiring harness to my new cd player.... and only disconnected the front door stock speaker....will the tweeter still function?

Remember I'm wiring all new speaker wires to the new speakers from the amp, so it really has nothing to do with the wiring harness. Unless the tweeters will actually work without the door speaker wired up. I don't know and I haven't seen any info on posts about it.

I also don't know if it'll make the car sound like crap by keeping those tweeters hooked up. I've seen people talking about replacing them, but I really don't have the desire to replace those stock tweeters. I'd rather just hear you guys tell me to unhook them, or keep them etc.

Tell me what you guys think. Just unplug the thing from the back of the stock tweeter? Keep it? Wire it differently? Help me out. I've only installed amps with 4 speakers before. Never messed with anything different.

The amp is 800watt amp. 200w per channel.
The HU has the dual rca outs. and by itself is rated 50watt x4
speakers I bought are fronts -180watt, rears 300watt.


help me out. I'd love some feedback.

MegaHurtz

iTrader: (6)

You should have bought components....

return the 6.5's and get components instead

slvrcivic

iTrader: (1)

I also should have bought a different car, but guess what... I didn't.

I have a civic ex. And I have the speakers I bought. I don't feel like getting new speakers to get another set of tweeters. I just want to know if I need to disconnect the stock tweeter or whatever.

brash

Wtf? Components aren't necessary ingredients for life...


I can't really help you with deciding. My advice would be to listen to it both ways and trust your ears.

By the way, whenever you talk about watts, use the RMS rating, not the "peak" or "maximum" or whatever else manufacturers call it. Also, you are going to want the 4 ohm rating for the amp (since your speakers are 4 ohm), and you want the rating for each channel (not bridged). Manufacturers love to quote how their amps are "400 watts," when in fact that is actually 200 watts "peak" per bridged channel. And it really turns out that in reality you get 50 watts RMS per channel.

Not that it matters, since you already have the equipment, but it is just something to look out for in the future.

irishtemper

i second that.

alex053

iTrader: (9)

just leave the tweeters hooked up..they will just provide ambient hi freqs since you will have so much more power going to the coaxials

slvrcivic

iTrader: (1)

thanks for the people that gave me options with what I have. For the others that told me how to do work with other equipment.... even after I said I'm not returning what I have........

what is so hard to understand?

that is my equipment. I didn't ask what speakers YOU wanted in my car. I asked how to properly wire what I had. Not go on a shopping spree for what you would like in my car, but thanks again.

Civic_Racer9

iTrader: (9)

cool its nice to hear another member is trying to amp their speakers.

i am in the process of amping my speaker. just ordered everything today...should be hear this weekend.

1. 4gauge 4 channel amp kit
2. 4channl soundtream amp. 60rmsx4
3. (already in the car). infinity kappa series (6.5" front 75rms) (9x6" rear 110rms)



O yea megahurtz....my speakers will outplay most components speakers out there.

irishtemper

can't do that, it will give a 2ohm load. UNLESS you hook up the stock tweets to the stereo front outouts and run your 6.5's and 6x9's from the amp, that is the only way it will work. It will not sound as good with the stock tweeters so i say leave them out.

brash

I think he meant leave the stock tweeters hooked up to the HU, and hook the other speakers up to the amp (which wouldn't affect impedance).

brash

Please stop talking out your ***.

irishtemper

id like to see polks outplay MOST components.

slvrcivic

iTrader: (1)

yeah I meant leaving them hooked up the HU. I just didn't know if they would sound like crap, or if it would even work. I'm obviously not rewiring the stock tweeter. So I didn't know how it was connected into the front door speakers etc. If I unhook the front door speaker if it automatically will cancel the tweeter or what. Or if I need to unhook it, leave it, whatever.

That would be the only thing running out of the HU (if it works without the door stock speaker hoooked up? not sure). The other speakers would be from my amp.

I'll mess with it this weekend I guess and find out first hand.

djspot

iTrader: (2)

can some one please answer the man...lol....

cuz I wanna know too...

I was looking at my stuff yesterday and lookin at the wire, and I think that by unhooking the factory 6.5, the tweeter wont be effected...because as u can see, if u disconnect the speaker it has its on terminal with a + and - and then the tweeter has its own and then at the harness there is only front left + and front left - (left side is for example)...so Im sure they are soldered together at some point before they reach the headunit...

Im gonna try it today...and I'll let u know...PEACE OUT DAAAAAWWWGGG LOL

later

doubledeuce2k2

iTrader: (20)

you just have to hook up the new door speakers to your amp, 1 speaker per channel. going through company BS.... 800W 4 channel amp = 200W per channel (at 2 ohms). 200W @ 2 ohms= 100W@4 ohms. continuous power is gonna be 50W rms likely. almost all speakers will take that amount of power.

leave the tweeters wired to the deck, that should be fine if you want a easy to change setup. with an aftermarket deck, the tweeters won't receive power though, unless you connect them to the wires that were connected to your in door speakers before. i would install and amp your 4 speakers, see how it sounds, and add tweeters if you want.

coop

I'm assuming that a passive crossover is wired somewhere within stock wiring for the tweets OR that one is wired into each of the tweeters.

I'm running comps in the front and ran new wiring for everything so I never found out. The problem with trying to rewire them to an aftermarket amp is making sure you don't lose the crossover - it filters out frequencies that the tweeter was not meant to handle. You could rewire new ones inline and then share the feed to your fronts - it's up to you.

djspot

iTrader: (2)

well I finished doing up my system...left the stock speakers and tweeters for now, until the blow (if they do) or until next spring...anyways....

the question about the tweeters...I disconnected the main front speaker and left the tweeter connected and it still works...power for the tweeters is coming for the deck and poor to the door speakers from my 4 ch alpine mrv540...

by the way, got my 2 10 type r's powered by my apline mrd500...and the **** is loooouuuuuud...hits really hard and clean...my trunk vibrates like a mother****er so Im gonna work on getting rid of that...

but to everybody who's interested...the alpine's sound AMAZING!!!! don't let anybody tell you differently...

doubledeuce2k2

iTrader: (20)

i was impressed by the output of a single type r 10" sub. doesn't get particularly low, but it does provide adequate bass. i have one glassed in about 1cu. in the corner of my trunk, getting about 300Wrms

slvrcivic

iTrader: (1)

Well I'm going outside to work on my install again. I worked on ripping out basically my entire interrior yesterday and taking out the rear deck & speakers. Basically 80% of my interrior and my car is sitting in my living room. My dash is torn apart for my cd player install, door sills out for speaker wire runs, all the back pannels, seats, deck lid etc. All sitting in my house. I never in my life thought I would have to do this much just to get new speakers, and an amp installed. I had my jeep done in like 3 hrs. This looks like it is going to take much longer. I still haven't touched the front speakers yet.

I would suggest people just take their crap somewhere and have it installed unless you have a lot of time, and very very limited budgets. I surely won't be removing this crap when I get rid of the car. Not worth it.

LudlamTheory

im not even going to comment on this

slvrcivic

iTrader: (1)

this install is a you know what. It sucks so bad. I just tried installing the polk 6x9's in the rear (which were supposed to fit no problem according to Circuit City - I quote ...."we've installed these in a ton of 02 EX coupes") and they don't fit. The trunk bar gets in the way. He told me the magnet is fine because he himself had installed them before. What a load of garbage. I ended up driving to another install shop where I know a few guys, and they confirmed there is no way to get them in without a bit of mod work. I had to redrill every whole in the speaker so the hardware would even fit into the stock wholes in the trunk lid.

I so wish I would have had them install these. They quoted me 2 hrs. I'd like to see that with the amount of crap required to get the old out, and then modify, and then install, then put all the stock pannels and lids back on.

I'd pay to see 2hrs.

slvrcivic

iTrader: (1)

The install couldn't be going any better. And this would be a bold faced lie. Nothing is going in smooth. I am still trying to install everything, and I haven't touched the front doors yet. The amp is mounted, rear speakers mounted, and I have the wires running to the amp, and up the door sills for the fronts. The head unit on the old radio is out, but the new radio is still yet to go in. I just came inside because it's getting dark, but now the factory bolts for the headunit won't go into my new head unit. Why did I think it would. Nothing else has worked to this point. I can't wait to dig into the fronts tomorrow....and hopefully...HOPEFULLY get the radio in etc.

I still don't have my drivers seat back in yet. I actually unbolted it and mounted my amp under the drivers seat. Nice and hidden, and also keeps the trunk nice and clean. But to do it, I had to remove my seat.

Lots to still do. Then put back every piece of plastic in the car.

My car looks like it just got stopped by the border patrol for transporting drugs over the line right now. Looks like the border patrol won.

doubledeuce2k2

iTrader: (20)

hope your srs light stays off. and i didn't even bother to bolt my HU in, it's skipped once(and thats because the car is lowered).

you stopped because it got dark?!?! thats when the best audio work is done, when you're sleep deprived!!!

slvrcivic

iTrader: (1)

why would my srs light come on---- or stay off---- etc? Removing the battery wire? or what. Cause I've had my battery removed quite a few times without problems.

How does your head unit even stay in the dash if it's not bolted in? Mine floats around in there. Did you use the metal frame that came with your new HU, or did you just put the radio into the new plastic piece that goes into the dash?

I wish I could do some audio work in the dark, but it's kind of hard when I'm by myself. Believe me, I've done some great audio work at like 3am before. I don't have ANY lights, flashlights, etc to help though. Makes for a difficult time to say the least.

Last time I drove to a parking lot at the mall. They obviously have some lights in the parking lot. I got out, unhooked my battery, and went to town. I got some pretty weird looks by people driving by, but I got the job done that way.

I just moved to pittsburgh against my will, and I just don't know this area too well to just park somewhere. Last time I did that, I ended up in a BAD area. It didn't take long till I hooked up the battery, and got out of dodge.

I really don't like drawing a lot of attention to myself. One time I was hanging out of my car, with my head up under the dash. The next thing I knew there were like 4 people all standing within like 5ft of my car. I didn't know what was going on, and I didn't stick around to find out.

Let me know about the SRS.

slvrcivic

iTrader: (1)

Double......btw, I see you're in cleveland. Do you really live in cleveland, or are you in the suburbs, etc.

I used to live outside of akron... like 10min west on rt76. Now I'm in Pitt. I noticed that you have the k20a2 engine. Very nice. You know of any good window tinting places around you by chance?

I'm either going to take a trip back to akron or something to find a good place. Nothing seems to be very good around here from what I've seen.

The first place I found in Pitt quoted me $210 on my coupe. I thought that seemed pretty high for a 2 door? My friend had one done in akron on his GTS Celica for $170 out the door and his looked really really nice.


and by the way. HOW in the world can you have a Denver icon. (shakes head) Tell me you were a browns fan in the late 80's when they played denver?

I still get made fun of here for liking the browns. Stealer fans are insane here.

Ed

iTrader: (6)

I'm in the suburbs of akron/cleveland, in Hudson.

slvrcivic

iTrader: (1)

hudson huh.... you used to be a pretty big rival to my old high school. We played you in all the sports. We always made a big deal out of games we played vs. your town. You know where my old home town is? I'm currious if you can get it.

doubledeuce2k2

iTrader: (20)

i live in lakewood actually. i didn't live here in 85,86, and i just really love the bronco's offense (shanahan is the man) but i am, of course, still a browns fan. tint is pricey in this part of the country because there isn't a lot of competition really, you should be able to find someone to do it for around 180.

unbolting the seat can cause the srs light to go on, thats why i said it before. i was also kind of drunk...

my HU never really moves around. i installed it, holes didn't line up, so i was all ready to go get screws; after putting it off for some time, i realized i didn't even need them. i use the metra dash kit, the pocket supports the HU pretty well.

there's an auto accents in berea, i think audio outlaws in brookpark does tint, klowning kustoms surely does it downtown (W25th and broadview). lots of places, i got my car with the tint on it though.

slvrcivic

iTrader: (1)

Well it finally is all in. I took pictures, to post a diy or something, but it would be pointless. There was nothing in my install that went smooth. Everything had to be modified in some way or another. I had to cut new speaker holes in my front doors as well. Even though I heard "OH YEAH... It'll FIT FINE" from circuit city. I had to cut away metal all the way around the stock speaker hole in the front doors. Then drill all new speaker mounts. The magnet was way too big to fit into the stock doors.

I left the front speaker line hooked up to the head unit and the tweeter still works fine. Everything else in the car is rewired and hooked up to the amp. All in all the install sucked butt, but it sounds good now.

Oh and of course the SRS light did come on from taking out the front seat. I looked and found the reset thing in the DIY. I'll do that later today.

If anyone is planning on doing this themselves...... I would advise against it. I've installed amps and new speakers in at least 4 other cars without issues. This was by far the worst car I've ever had the joy of installing speakers/amp in.

good luck.

slvrcivic

iTrader: (1)

few pics from the destruction