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i was looking at the apline mrv f340. i noticed it is 65x4 at 2om. im not understanding why it would be at 2 ohm. what component speakers are 2ohm. also, that would mean it can take 4 ohm bridged, right? here are my questions

a why 2ohms. arent most door speakers 4ohm
b if i bridged 2 channels to a sub what would the watts be at 4ohm.
c what would it be for the 4 channels if i used front and rear speakres that were 4ohms.

thank you.

also, unrelated. what is the deal with giving points. i see people talking about giving tohers points. what are these points.

 
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Generally the ratings are for how much power it puts out.

100 watts @ 4 ohms
150 watts @ 2 ohms
300 watts @ 4 ohms bridged (note it isn't 2 ohm stable when bridged)

Now most speakers are 4 ohms.

So if you hook up a 4 ohm speaker it will get 100 watts.

If you hook up two 4 ohm speakers in parallel that acts like one 2 ohm speaker to the amp. The amp puts out 150 watts, 75 to each speaker.

If you hook up two 4 ohm speakers in series that acts like one 8 ohm speaker to the amp. The amp puts out 50 watts, 25 to each speaker.

Get the idea ......

This is mostly an issue w/ subs. If you wanted to use a sub, then get a SVC 4 ohm sub, bridge the amp, and it gets 300 watts. But if you can only get DVC subs, then you need the 2 ohm version. Then wire the coils in series to act like a single 4 ohm sub, and bridge the amp for 300 watts .....

 
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mostly all amps are stable at 2 ohms stereo if u connect 2 speakers (4ohms) to one channel of the amp, it drops to 2 ohms.
+-(speaker 1)
+-(speaker 2)
will give u 2 ohm load

+-(speaker 1)
+-(speaker 2)
will give u 8 ohms (which will lower the amps power)

however, bridge can only take a 4ohm speaker (unless stated 2 ohm mono stable)
also i have read tht the amp on bridge mode see's the speaker as 2 ohm load so if u put a 2 ohm woofer, the amp would take it as 1 ohm . thus blowing it up!.

 
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At 12 volts, your amp is...

35x4 @ 4ohm, 45X4 @ 2ohm, 90X2 @ 4ohm

At 14.4 volts, your amp is...

55x4 @ 4ohm, 65X4 @ 2ohm, 130X2 @ 4ohm

Your amp is 4 or 2 ohm stable in stereo, 4 ohm stable bridged.

 
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I have an older Pioneer (300W) amp and ran this exact same setup in an eariler car. I two speakers off each channel, four off the two-channel amp. They were older 120Wmax Pioneer POSes but they sounded great in that setup.

 
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im totally cool with the 2ohm and 4om thing. im still a little confuse on this. lets say i have a 4channel. its
4 X 50 @ 4 Ohm
4 X 100 @ 2 Ohm
2 X 200 @ 4 Ohm

so. if I ran 4om door spearkers to to 2 channles it would be 50w per speaker right? if i used the other 2 channels to go to a sub, how do i know how much watts it would be to only 2 of the 4 channles brighed to 1? i know some amps say their watts but the dont always say for every setup. is there a way to figure it out.

 
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Each set of channels is on a "seperate" amp. So, you could use the front channel as 50 watts x 2, and bridge the rear channels for 200x1.

And when you bridge something at 4ohm, the amp is seeing 2ohm. That is why you are getting 2x the 2ohm rating if you were in stereo mode....if that made sense.

 
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I thought that was a misconseption that the amp sees 2ohm.

 
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Well, it is and it isn't. It's a misconception that the amp GETS 2ohms. But you can think of it like this, each channel on the amp handles it's own impedence. If you've got two 4ohms going to the amps two channels. Thats a 4ohm load to each channel. If you bridge the remaining 2 channels. The amp has 1 channel comprised of 2. The 4ohm load you deliver will be a 4ohm load to the virtually 1 channel. However, whereas that channel doesn't actually exist, the 4ohms is handled as 2 to each of the comprising channels. Make sense?

 
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^^^^am sorry but that doesnt make any sense.

go w/ this one. simple and detailed......

 
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I don't think you read this thread before posting. These are two completely different concepts. For one, Adawg asked a specific question about impedence with amp bridging. My response was directly to that. If I was unclear, let me know and I'll try to make myself more clear. But understand, the quote you gave is not a better explaination to Adawg's question than mine. We addressed differnt issues altogether. Take a look back at the thread. For two, although Joe always gives true, accurate and well explained info. His info was a general guidline. If anything, the dude that took the time to look up the amp specs actually gave the simple, detailed explaination to the original queston.

 
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youre not gonna make any sense to the newbie. they just want to hook it up to the right specs and thats it. they just want you to get to the point.