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(My question is regarding an aftermarket head and not an original stereo unit. If this is in appropriate or the wrong thread, please let me know and I'll remove it.)
Hello. I recently bit the bullet and bought my first Android audio head, an SWM 8802 with Android 7.1. I bought it for use in my '07 Honda Civic EX which had a standard stereo and CD player, and no navigation. I purchased a harness extension for it (Scosche HA10B) so I wouldn't have to cut the original wires, but was not expecting to purchase an antenna adapter (which should arrive soon from eBay). My current trouble is that there's no audio.
The Android unit, like other's I've comparison-shopped, has two block connections to the back of the unit: an 8-pin block for the front/rear/left/right audio positive and negative, and another 8-pin block for power and everything else. One of those is a blue wire (looks more teal) that is shown as Power antenna/Factory amplifier/remote turn on. I simply connected this to the blue wire on the Civic Harness I got which matches up almost all colors. After a few failed attempts to boot the unit I used a continuity tester to find faults and fix them (all connections are closed circuit), but I still cannot hear audio. Does that blue wire act as a multi-function for the Power antenna, and the amp, and the remote turn on, or are those slashes designated to mean OR rather than AND where it will do one of those three things?
This is an image from a similar Android car head and shows the blue wire going to the antenna. Again, if it's the antenna, why is there no audio? It also say s"Amp Turn-on", but is there a hidden amp I'm not aware of? Doesn't the head provide enough amplification?
The antenna adapter that I purchased from eBay has a female socket for the plastic connector, and also has a blue wire. I assume this goes to the blue wire to the android unit and to the Civic harness, and is this most likely the fix to my lack of audio issue? I figured without the antenna I would still be able to hear audio through the built in speakers using the connected wires. There are mp3 files built in to the unit such as test sounds and The Price is Right music (which I'm eager to hear so I can make it feel like I won my car in the showcase showdown). But even as I play these there is no audio.
This is my first ever car stereo swap/upgrade so I feel pretty accomplished but would like to know if it's a stupid mistake I'm making or something I'm not doing. I was going to post this on xda-developers.com, but figured they're more into the software side than the hardware side regarding audio. I do have a few questions as well being this is my first car stereo upgrade:
1. The wires from the harness and the block connectors of the Android unit seem to be 23- or 24-gauge wire, so when I use a ratcheting crimping tool, the terminals are still loose. At first I had better results crimping at the very end, the flanged end that the cable goes into rather than the narrow end where the terminal contact is (spade/fork/ring/etc). But with the smaller wires there tends to be a lot of play. I was starting to solder the wire to the terminals but then thought, "I shouldn't have to do this as I'm actually crimping them instead." Is it worthwhile getting 25- or 26-gauge terminals or should I just stick with soldering? I went out and bought a huge 520-piece terminal set from Harbor Freight, but they end up having a lot of play to them when I crimp them as well. The ratcheting crimping tool was purchased from Harbor Freight as well.
2. Right now my connections from the Honda Civic harness I have an old terminal strip that I never used, bought it aeons ago when I had a '71 Chevelle but never used it. Would it be a better choice to put ring terminals on the wires and attach it to the terminal strip and mount it somewhere, or is it okay the way it is with a combination of screw-on caps and connecting terminals shielded by electrical tape? As I mentioned I used a continuity tester and everything checks out okay, but was slightly concerned for long-term use with heat and cold.
Do you have audio with a CD? The antenna does need power to operate but a CD or AUX should work.
1.) Solder. Everything should be soldered in my opinion. Those HF ratcheting crimpers are junk (I had a pair). I get better results using a Klein non ratchet crimper.
2.) They should be soldered also. Heat shrink and solder.
My Android head has no CD/DVD, but my original radio does.
I could solder them, but not having done it in so long I'm having to re-learn good techniques.What irks me is that the thin wires from the head are almost an inch long, too long that I have to cut each one down. Maybe I can bend it back and solder it.
Yes, it is an EX Coupe. I read on the Crutchfield page for my Honda (https://www.crutchfield.com/learn/20...nda-civic.html) that there may be tweeters in the dash too, but I don't know if mine has it (and I can find my car sticker that listed all the options). You answer may be a lifesaver. Now carefully re-reading the steps I see this:
In coupes, you’ll find the amp beneath the center console, in front of the gear shifter. In this case, you’ll need to disassemble the console to get the wires to the amp, a process that is explained fully in your Crutchfield MasterSheet.In either case, you unplug the speaker connector from the amplifier and plug it into the connector on the bypass harness. This removes the factory amplifier from the system, letting you safely power your speakers with the new in-dash receiver.
I got so far before when replacing the shift boot but had difficulties removing the whole console. I'll try again tonight or this week and follow up.
Now you did mention the blue connect wire. Is this the wire from the Scosche harness that needs to go to it, the wire from the Android head block, or all three (Wire from Scosche, Android block, and the one from the Antenna adapter with blue wire)?
The stock amp is on the tunnel (floor hump) up closer to the gas pedal than the shifter. Above where the shifter cables go through the floor. Sitting on top of the airbag control unit.
You cannot run speaker level output from the radio into the amp. You have to run line level outs to the amp, Or bypass the amp with their jumper harness, but then you may lose use of the stock sub. (center speaker in rear shelf) IDK, I don't deal with aftermarket radios at work. Too many variables and hack installs.
(Wire from Scosche, Android block, and the one from the Antenna adapter with blue wire)?
It's the same blue wire. The blue one that is shown as going to the antenna in the pic in your first post.
(connects to Gray wire in cavity G3 of the stock dash harness radio connectors, that's the wire off to the side in the antenna connector)
there may be tweeters in the dash too, but I don't know if mine has it
I just saw a YouTube video on an 06 Civic Ex amp, but Im currently on mobile and couldnt get a clear look at the amp. Do I run any RCA cables from the Android head to my stock amp if it has RCA inputs? There was an unused connnector to the back of my stock stereo, so do I need another connector or bypass connector for this? Thanks again.
Edit: saw your response now. Id hate to have to buy new components as I want to keep everything else stock so I don't ger over my head in stereo components. Thank you.
Last edited by emaxxx4; 08-19-2018 at 10:38 AM.
Reason: New info, missed quick response.
You can buy things to drop speaker outs to line level though if you really wanted.
Great! Is there a model number or name for these? I also did an eBay search for "Civic amp" and found a Scosche HA13B kit that looks like it has connectors. Would this work, bypassing the Svosche harness I have and using this instead? I'd like to balance ease-of-install with cost but also prefer a challenge that seems reachable.
Scosche HA13B kit that looks like it has connectors.
Yeah like that.
That looks about like what I had pictured in my head to connect a typical aftermarket radio (with RCA jacks) to the OE stock amp. . It's up to you to figure out if it's right for your purposes.
I took a look at the line level converter. A bit cheaper but more wiring is involved (which to me means more effort and more chance of screwing up). However with the Scosche kit, I can use the cable with the smaller block, the one with the L and R RCA cables, and I assume that goes right to the Android head unit L and R outputs, based on the logical RCA outputs available (please correct me if I'm wrong). The other cable in the Scosche kit looks like a harness with RCA cables already made. Can I just ignore this since I already have the larger unit connected to the various speaker wires that go to the Android head block?
So to reiterate I'll have the Scosche kit:
And in that I'll only use the smaller harness with the L and R RCA cables. The connector from that will go to my (what I assume is the amp) connector on the left in this photo:
And the Scosche kit RCA left and right wires will go to the left and right outputs on my head here in the left:
And there's no adjustment needed with the existing Scosche harness as I already have the audio wires connected to the top block of the Android head, while the power and other wires are connected to the bottom of the Android head:
And of course the existing connections will remain in my stock Civic amp:
Does all that sound correct? I notice in the Scosche kit that the same smaller block w the RCA wires has a blue wire. Does that go to the antenna or somewhere else?
Your new radio only offers a left and a right RCA jack?
Not 4 or more audio output RCAs like I'd expect from most others?
In my mind, this ain't gonna work. You'll only have 2 speakers working.
Hope you got an adapter for the antenna cable and its power requirement
Your diy connections could be improved. Twist/tape and household twistynuts are less than ideal for long term reliability. I'd solder/heat shrink, or use crimp terminals (butt connectors).
Your new radio only offers a left and a right RCA jack?
Not 4 or more audio output RCAs like I'd expect from most others?
In my mind, this ain't gonna work. You'll only have 2 speakers working.
It appears that way, but the Android head has two blocks; the upper for four speakers (positive and negative), and the lower for power, ground, and other cables
Originally Posted by ezone
Hope you got an adapter for the antenna cable and its power requirement.
Yeah, I just bought one on eBay yesterday
Originally Posted by ezone
Your diy connections could be improved. Twist/tape and household twistynuts are less than ideal for long term reliability. I'd solder/heat shrink, or use crimp terminals (butt connectors).
Yeah (sigh) The ones in tape are spade connectors, female to male. I soldered them for solid connections since the crimps wefe not the greatest. Here's the sucky part... The thinnest terminal connectors I have are 22 gauge (red, then blue and yellow). The wires from the Scosche harness are probably 24 gauge, and the wires from the Android harness may be 26 gauge; both slightly thin to hinder crimping. The twist-on caps are temporary, as I just wanted ro be able to power it on. I have an 8-row terminal block I never used. Im considering mounting it somewhere on the stereo mount (sides) that go to the front.
Because they're so thin, what's the best course of soldering?
1. Twist wires, tin it, crimp it to a terminal connector, then solder it?
2. Twist wires, tin it, bend black n half to thicken it, connect to terminal then solder it?
3. Twist, crimp to terminal, then solder it?
I just don't want to oversolder and make a mess. I did that w one spade terminal and it was difficult to match it to a male spade terminal. If i can do all ring terminals, it'll look much cleaner and I can avoid ugly electrical tape and use wire loom instead.
It appears that way, but the Android head has two blocks; the upper for four speakers (positive and negative), and the lower for power, ground, and other cables
Seems to me if you want to have all speakers working from the stock amp,you can't use the RCA outputs on the back of the radio BECAUSE only 2 channels would work.
So.... I'd use line level converters for all 4 channels and then connect those to the dash harness adapter....and if the line converter(s) gives you RCA connectors then get the dash harness adapter that accepts RCAs. It all depends on what each part comes with and how much wiring you want to do.
This may involve some creative wiring.
I still have no idea if the stock "sub"woofer will work now that the original head unit is missing.
Do a western union splice like shown. You you can strip back extra insulation and fold the wire back to make it thicker. HF has heat shrink for pretty cheap. Electrical tape can look nice if you are neat with it. If you want to use butt connectors then you can fold the wire back to make it thicker so that it crimps better.
Do a western union splice like shown. You you can strip back extra insulation and fold the wire back to make it thicker...
Thank you, I will try that! I'm anxious to improve my soldering skills anyway since i bought a DIY tube headphone amp for $10.
I had thought I replied but I must have done a preview without submission. Here it goes again:
I made a diagram and I believe it will work. Check it out:
The source Android head (1) has two blocks of connectors on the right: The audio for front and back, left and right speakers (2) and the power and remaining cables (3). The set of inputs and outputs on the left are for video input and output, but of course the two RCA jacks for left and right. These are embossed in the metal but am wondering if it's really for positive and negative.
The wires from the two blocks on the Android head connect to the Scosche main adapter (5) and the Scosche Amp adapter (4) which I am awaiting from an eBay sale. Previously the amp connector was going to the original Honda stereo but nothing else. This probably explains the lack of audio.
So we have the original amp (6) and radio (7) harnesses going to the original Honda amplifier (8) which then goes to the speakers
How so? Where is the stock amp supposed to go? Why would Scosche make a kit that doesn't do what it's advertised to do, which is manufacture an adapter to connect to the stock amp?
Edit: Actually I think I see it but am not 100% sure. Even the description details on the second Scosche harness states, " Install a Car Stereo & Bypass the Factory OEM Amplifier ", so wouldn't that make it use the built-in amp on the Android head and allow the audio to pass through the amp and go to the speakers?
Edis 2: I think I see it now. i looked up "civic bypass harness" on eBay and found this:
So the blue connector will go to where it initially connected to the stock stereo, and the wires from that same connector will go to the the wires from the speaker block on the Android head. The wide gray-colored connector will go to the stock connector that went to the back of the stock stereo and will connect to the lower block on the Android head. However, if both the second Scosche adapter and this bypass adapter connect to the original wiring harness, would it really make a difference?
Last edited by emaxxx4; 08-20-2018 at 10:39 AM.
Reason: Finding new things.
Stop. I already said you have to figure out what's appropriate for your car and your choice of how to hook it all up.
I would like to know what the two audio output RCA jacks are for on the back of the new radio. Are they specifically for use with a subwoofer?
I want to see an installation manual for this specific radio.
I've never heard of NELNISSA. Chinese, I'm sure (I haven't messed with aftermarket radios in 2 decades either)
The amazon page I found did not specify what the audio RCA jacks are other than audio.
Simplest option IMO: get the bypass harness (or plug, whatever it is) to eliminate using the stock amplifier; you will operate 4 speakers directly from the radio via the adapters in post 1.
If you want to use the stock amp with 4 channels, you're gonna need the line level converters for all 4 channels.
As far as I can tell, the original center woofer (5th channel) will no longer be used.
When I did my research I got the impression that the head came with a full manual, but the one I received did not cover installation. So I went with the wiring diagram for a similar unit.
I did end up buying the bypass harness anyway for $21. Then while at work I found $10 on the street, haha! So, I'll try them both and report back what I find.
Now if I am to lose the sub, what's the best course of action to replace it? Redo the wiring on it, or replace it entirely with a different unit?
Last edited by emaxxx4; 08-20-2018 at 08:23 PM.
Reason: spelling corrections
This is why I always recommend ordering stuff from Crutchfield. Installation instructions and harnesses included. The last kit I ordered from them I didn't have to cut or solder a single wire. All plug n play harnesses that can go back to OEM in minutes.
Originally Posted by emaxxx4
Now if I am to lose the sub, what's the best course of action to replace it? Redo the wiring on it, or replace it entirely with a different unit?
It's going to need an amp to run it so you will either need to get the existing one working or get a new amp to power it. With a new amp I would just get a new sub which will be better then the OEM one. A small 8" is all you need.
It's going to need an amp to run it so you will either need to get the existing one working or get a new amp to power it. With a new amp I would just get a new sub which will be better then the OEM one. A small 8" is all you need.
ezone had mentioned a line-level converter. How would this work? I see it has left and right RCA female leads. Is it safe to assume those go to the back of the Android unit? What about the two or more wires that come out of the line level converter? Do they get wired to the subwoofer (original or replacement)? Sorry for the noob questions but this is my first install.
Originally Posted by ezone
The original sub usually isn't considered a true subwoofer. It's more like an independent woofer.
I'd look into what golnat said. New amp and sub as a set.
I believe it's unlikely, but is it possible to run a low-power amp (yet slightly more powerful than the stock amp) without requiring a wire run to the battery? I just don't want to get involved with drilling through the firewall just so solve a sound issue.
ezone had mentioned a line-level converter. How would this work?
Google it. Read up. Learn.
The purpose of the converter is to change voltage from what is used to drive a speaker to a much lower level that an amplifier requires. That's roughly about the same power a typical earphone (earbud) would use.
I see it has left and right RCA female leads. Is it safe to assume those go to the back of the Android unit?
Nope. After you learn about it, you should be able to answer this question on your own.
What about the two or more wires that come out of the line level converter?
Dude, you're really opening up my eyes here, and I greatly appreciate the help! Ok, I think I'm starting to get it now. So each speaker is a channel, and I would require a 4-channel. Do i need a separate 2-channel for the subwoofer if I wanted that or something else. I downloaded a Scosche SLC-4 line output converter manual and found the following:
Based on the above diagram, the Android head's speaker wires would go to the Scosche SLC-4. From there, instead of using the RCA Jack outputs, would I use the B1 through B8 Wires to go to the Metra 701727 (Blue connector with speaker wires) which connects to my Honda's factory amp?
As far as the subwoofer being an "Independent woofer", would I need a crossover to go from the main speakers to the sub? since most 4-channel line output converters don't have connections for a sub?
I'm going to look up more car stereo basics. I'm thinking it may be easier to spend a bit extra and get everything at once instead of adding stuff a little at a time.
So each speaker is a channel, and I would require a 4-channel.
I thought you knew that already.
Do i need a separate 2-channel for the subwoofer if I wanted that or something else.
As far as the subwoofer being an "Independent woofer", would I need a crossover to go from the main speakers to the sub? since most 4-channel line output converters don't have connections for a sub?
Depends on what you want to do. Since most people don't consider the stock to be a true subwoofer, you could toss it and replace it with a single true sub that actually fits the hole and buy whatever it takes to run that unit (amp, wiring, etc) according to whomever made it.
There are probably many options.
My old truck is running a pair of old school 10" Pioneer subs in sealed enclosures with their own dedicated amp.
Based on the above diagram, the Android head's speaker wires would go to the Scosche SLC-4. From there, instead of using the RCA Jack outputs, would I use the B1 through B8 Wires to go to the Metra 701727 (Blue connector with speaker wires) which connects to my Honda's factory amp?
I dunno.
It's your car and your radio.
I don't even mess with car stereo anything anymore. I have piles of wire and components I could put in my Civic but really, I hardly even play the radio anymore. Silence is bliss after a noisy day at work.
I have a good idea of what I would do with it, but I have no idea what you want to do with it. I'd probably try what's in my head then decide it needs improvement and try something else. Or make it work, decide I'm sick of messing with it and call it good enough. And leave it all turned off.
1 sub so you only need one channel to run it. If you add a new sub you will need to buy a new amp. That amp will have RCA connectors, power, ground and signal. You will need to run RCA from HU to amp. Power ground and signal wire to amp. Then run speaker wire from amp to sub.
Yes I believe you are on the right track with that converter. I would have to read more about it which I can’t do at the present moment but will try to tomorrow.
Is the harness that goes the factory amp being used at the moment?
Did you check out Crutchfield? I feel like they would have a magic harness that solves everything lol
Ok, thanks. I just wanted to replace the stock stereo with the touchscreen one, but didn't think it would be involved as it is. I thought I'd be able to just add an adapter and swap it out, but because I have an existing premium audio system it's a bit nore complex. I'd like to just use my stock speakers and amp, bit it looks like I'll be losing the sub (and the sub replacement can't be deep as there's a brace undernesth it.
I guess I'll just try the different adapters until I find one that works. Again, I appreciate your help. If I get it completely working I'll make a how-to for it.
Allright I received the Scosche SLC-4 and hooked it up as so:
From the Android SWM8022:
Audio block wires (left and right, 4 pairs) to SLC-4
Main wires to Terminal strip, to Scosche harness
L&R RCA Outputs to Aux part of Scosche Harness (I believe these are outputs from the Aux input Jack)
Antenna wire to antenna
Line output converter:
The inputs have the bare wires from the Android
RCA outputs are going to the RCA jacks of the Scosche HA13B
Scosche harness goes to connectors that lead to the original factory amp. One blue wires from the Aux harness connects to the blue wires on the terminal strip
I tried the built in sounds and the radio (now that the antenna is hooked up), but still nothing. I'm going to wire a home speaker right into one of the speaker wires and test to see if I get any sound at all. I need to know if it's a bad unit, or the amp isn't turned on. Any clue as to why I'm still not getting sound?
Last edited by emaxxx4; 08-24-2018 at 10:34 PM.
Reason: Added tagline "4 pairs of two wires each"
You NEED 8 wires (4 matched pairs for 4 speakers) run through the line converter. 8 wires in from the radio, 8 wires out to the stock amplifier.
You don't know what the RCA outputs are for on the back of the radio? Leave them disconnected.
Been looking in a real wiring diagram for the car:
The RCA cables that come in the smaller (gray?) connector need to be connected to the AUX jacks on the back of the radio IF it is equipped (I can't read the labels in your picture). They are for using the AUX jack below the power outlet in the dash.
YOu do have a blue wire connected for the amp turn on AND the antenna booster?
08-18-2018
