DubbleChrisP

Hello all,


I'm not the best with cars, but I can't find any mechanics who seem to know what they're talking about when it comes to Hybrids. I bought the car used back in 2012 with about 100,000 miles on it. I've since put on about 34,000 miles since 2012.

About 18 months to 2 years ago, the IMA started showing issues (not holding a charge, triggering the check engine light). I couldn't afford a brand new IMA, so I got a used one for about $1000. I installed it myself with the help of my dad, and it started exhibiting the same issue. The seller replaced the IMA for me free of charge since it was within 30 days, and within two weeks, the second replacement started showing the same issue. I decided to just ignore it since I didn't think it was worth the trouble. The car still drove fine, it just had issues accelerating from 0 since the IMA wasn't helping as much.

Fast forward to last October, and now I'm having issues with the car's regular 12V battery. It keeps losing charge like crazy. I replace it with a brand new one and it's fine. Then, last March, the 12V battery is dead again. It was still under warranty through NAPA, so I replace it for free. Fast forward to today, and the battery is so dead that the power steering, stereo, and even dash functions (including the RPM gauge and spedometer) stop working entirely. I managed to bring it home, and of course it won't turn on again from a dead battery.

Currently waiting for my roommate to come home so he can jump it. Anyway, I've researched on the internet and can't find anything linking 12V battery drainage to a defective or deteriorated IMA. Am I out of luck without replacing the IMA? Or do I have even worse luck and have a problem with the car itself since replacing the IMA twice didn't do anything?

ezone

Ni-Cd batteries wear out.
Used battery was probably just as worn out as your original.
Every time.
Even if the seller had these packs laying around (junkyard?) the batteries will go bad if they aren't charged up on a regular basis.

I count:
12v battery that was in the car when you bought it went bad. Ok, it happens.

Then 6 months later, the battery was found dead for some reason, and was replaced again.
WAS IT BAD or WAS IT ONLY DEAD? There is a difference.
If it was truly bad, that's a defective battery.
If it was only dead, that's probably not the fault of the battery.

5 months later it's dead again.
Why? Is it bad or is it just dead?

5-6 months is pretty sporadic...

If it is dead like something was left on and ran it down, figure out what the draw is.
Draw test: It probably should have a draw of less than 30mA after 20 minute timeout. Max is 50, but I'd expect to see less than 30.


Got more codes? The 12v battery is charged by the IMA system.

DubbleChrisP

I'm not sure how to tell the difference on whether the battery was bad or dead. I had the guys at NAPA do a load test on the battery and they said that it was not holding a charge, and that it wasn't the alternator's fault.

I'll see if I can take it somewhere for a draw test tomorrow and update accordingly.

As far as engine codes, the car has consistently shown the IMA deterioration code since I first started having issues with it 18 months - 2 years ago and I've just started ignoring it. That's the only engine code that's shown except when the 12v battery starts dying and the red battery light shows up.

ezone

You put a battery charger on it and see if it comes back to life. Then run the tests to see if it is good or bad.

A dead battery won't pass a load test, but that does not mean it is bad.
That car does not have an alternator.
k


Is the battery light is coming on while driving?
Or just comes on once the battery is too low to start the engine?

What codes does the IMA system have now?

P1600 is just a generic code in the PCM, that leads one to check the IMA system for more detailed codes.

DubbleChrisP

Shows how much I know about my own car. >_>




It's on when I turn on the car. As it runs, it'll usually turn off about five minutes into the drive.

Just ran outside and tried turning the car on. It started up without a jump or anything despite everything from the stereo to the dash turning off while running just a few hours ago. I plugged in my OBD and it read two engine codes: P0A7F (which is the one I've been ignoring for the last year and a half or so because I can't afford to do anything about it) and P1570, which is new. Haven't seen that one before.

ezone

12v charging is done by the IMA system, the DC-DC converter.


That's still a IMA battery code, battery module individual voltage problem.

If the 12v battery is weak at startup the light may come on...... so is something running the battery down while the car sits? (draw test)