Threshic

Well here's my first post after a long time reading these forums. Never needed to login as your guys details for repair and mods is so great. Hopefully my leeching ways don't turn you off

2007 Honda Civic LX Coupe Stock everything, dead in morning.

I think I isolated my battery drain problem down to Fuse #23 in the Under Hood Fuse Box, but I did not go any further in depth.

Can anyone tell me the exact items #23 covers?

**edit after OP**
Fuse #23
10 A ORN (WHT)*4
Audio unit, Data link connector, Gauge control module (tach and speedo), Immobilizer control unit
****


Thanks for your time and any reply you may have!

RIPSAW

Maybe this will help

Threshic

Thank you Ripsaw very helpful!

I think seeing my answer has made me double think that I could progress any further in the trouble shooting. I will yield to a professional. I don't feel like I have many options besides our local dealership, small town island.

RIPSAW

You would need a service manual. With an inline ampmeter between battery connection, isolate each item. Rather daunting. Most of these item probably pull a lot more when first reconnected for 30 seconds and then taper off to small micro-amp drains.

ezone

When testing for battery draw, you need to connect your test equipment (ammeter) then let the car sit still with everything off and doors closed for about 10-20 minutes to let all the computers go to sleep. THEN test. If you wake up the computers, you need to let them "time out" all over again.

Pull the #23 fuse out, see if your battery stays good overnight.

23 is back up fuse, it runs power to the data link connector, radio/navi, tach module, Immibilizer, keyless, MICU....

RIPSAW

I saw that term 'backup fuse' .. made no sense to me. Thought at first referring to backup lights but it's not? If you have the time, could you elaborate on it? Thanks

CraigW

iTrader: (1)

^^^^Battery Back(ed) up items that require constant power, clock & presets, section of micu unit. And likely others.

ezone

^Yeah what Craig said

RIPSAW

What will they thing of next? I always referred to it as unkeyed always on circuit. Thanks

guero80

Threshic, did you resolve your issue, i have excatly the same problem, i already disconnected all the circuits/components that the fuse 23 powers and draw is still present, i believe the problem is the complete interior fuse box (micu).

Mj111

Hello to all,
I've just isolated the same fuse as culprit in draining my car battery (fuse #23 back-up). I share the same experience as the person who started the thread (thinking it was my backup light circuit but later found out it's not).
I don't have the resources nor the knowledge to begin to yanking on the gas pump circuit, or other functions under the jurisdiction of this fuse. I have opted for a less traditional solution. Could an individual validate my idea as safe and harmless for the car? I opted for leaving a functional mini-10amp fuse in my car. Whenever I am to start my day, I willl insert the fuse in the #23 socket. When my the car served its purpose and is due to be left parked for more than 6 hours, I will remove the fuse and leave it on standby in my pocket or in the car.
Thanks.

sdaidoji

iTrader: (1)

fix it
when something else happens, it can fry the wiring and will be even more expensive