justinleblanc

Alright so I've got a 2010 honda civic sport sedan. I'm putting an audio system in it, but I need some opinions. I plan on putting the following in:

- Front: Infinity Reference 6030cs 6-1/2" 270W 2-Way Reference Series
- Rear: Infinity Kappa 63.9i 6-1/2" 3-Way 225W
- Two JL audio 10W1v2-4 10" subs in a custom enclosure built to the subs specs.

I'm going to get an aftermarket deck as well but that's not what I'm worried about. What I want to know is, can I get a single amp to power the subs and the speakers? According to specs, the front speakers are rated 90w RMS, the rears 75w RMS, and according to JL audio's power chart, the subs would perform really well without distortion and without hurting them around 150w RMS per sub. Can I get a single five channel amp to power the whole setup? And also, would this setup be fine and not hurt the factory battery/alternator/etc? Or would I have to upgrade my vehicle's electrical in order to power all of this without hurting the car? If two amps would be better, would the Alpine MRP-M500 powering the two subs, and an Alpine MRP-F300 powering the speakers work? And also would it work with the cars electrical the way I have it?

Kennykid2002

iTrader: (1)

Why start a new thread on your same topic?

The speakers are pretty decent, the alpine MRP F300 will have no trouble powering them

If you have the budget, I say go with JL W3's they sound a lot crisper/cleaner, but W1's are louder, so that's personal preference

And depending on your budget, your safest bet would be to go with 2 amps instead of one.

This is how I would do it:
Run a 0~2 Gauge wire from battery to trunk (with in-line fuse)
At the end of the wire, have a 1.5 farad capacitor, then have a distribution block
From the distribution block run a 4 gauge wire to each amp

With this setup, and 2 amps, it's probably gonna run you at least 1k for your system

justinleblanc

I think I'm going to stick with the W1s simply due to budget. I'm already going overbudget as to what I planned on spending. So as long as I've got a capacitor in there, the amps will be getting all the power they need and the car battery will be fine and able to handle the load?

TiggerDX

iTrader: (1)

Just get an Alpine PDX5, run 4 gauge (don't waste your money on 0-2 gauge, you do not need it for the power you are running)
1 amp, digital, no stress on the electrical, easy hookup, clean sound and enough power for what you want. And they can be found for a little over $300. No cap needed.

And Kenny's right, the W3 is a much better sub than the W1.

Kennykid2002

iTrader: (1)

They should be able to run fine, i cant guarantee that they will be getting enough juice, as i only run 350RMS in my system

donfeao

i agree with TiggerDX, dont waste your money on 0~2 gauge cable, im running the Fusion Powerplant Bass pack (single 12 with ported enclosure, maximum amp rating 1000W and 650WRMS for the sub only, then hav splitters and all that you know the go,) and im running 4gauge, its great. so spend that little extra and get the 4 gauge wiring.

But, overall your setup sounds awesome! goodluck with the install

donfeao

the sub itself is 1500W maximum, the pack only cost me $400 brand new!! (clearence sale