dsm482

Ezone you alive , need help, enlighten me here..

I had two bad sensors, so i put two new ones.. OEM from TRW.. they had 10 digit number that came with it for ID's..
Original was 8..
SO I scanned them in and put the 10 digit number, and somehow the scanner made it 8 digit ID..
SO it accepted them in. These are pre ready to go sensors..

I used my scanner scanned the ID in.. faults are gone..

Light is still ON blinking... MTF.. thats the TPMS tire sign light blinking.. Hmm?

So I drove at 28mph to see if it goes away.. nope its still there..
NO faults..
I scanned it I get two other faults for ABS..

What are these..?
I included a picture.. I am touch confused, IF Sensor faults are gone and are READ in, why do I have blinikng light?

I dont have NO ABS light on dashboard.. ever heard of these codes?

ezone

Weak or drained battery causes those low voltage type codes. Typical, not really a problem. Erase if you can. Unrelated to TPMS on that car.

You got aftermarket sensors that are writeable?
Got a data list for the TPMS system? Pull that up and check the 4 unique sensor ID# it has stored. See if the stored IDs match each sensor ID in each wheel (read electronically).
If your new sensors have different ID# than the original sensors, then you will have to "learn" all 4 sensors to the TPMS control unit.

dsm482

I will get the data list of ID's later tonight.. I had also dunn tire write them in.. with their scanner.. .. light still on no codes.. DO I have to drive it ?
They had different ID's , they were diifrent than the originals.. When I bought these they were stated AS OEM same manufacturer that makes them for Honda...
I will post them later from my scan tool.. They are recognized..



How do I learn them?

The low voltage codes I erased them, and they still come and stay on those 2 codes?
I haven't tested my battery,, seems it starts fine.. Does that indicate battery issue..

ezone

Using my scanner, yes, driving it is the final step after programming to get the blinking warning light(s) to quit. My scanner has this spelled out on screen when you reach that step.

You said you drove it, but who quits at 28 MPH? Man, I'll reach 50 easy in the quarter mile drive it usually takes to stop the blinking light. (actually less but that's to the next nearest parking lot driveway)


There are several aftermarket scanners and systems for dealing with TPMS. Refer to instructions for/with your equipment?


I use dealer level equipment, which may be totally different from what aftermarket offers.
(We have an ATEQ tool that can do some programming, but it won't do the Hondas we tried it on)

I bet you have the key turned on for a while, and the DRLs are on and maybe the HVAC/AC/fans all on and all this is pulling battery voltage down while you're trying to clear the codes.

Sometimes we can drain a battery in 5 minutes or less by leaving the key on like this (depending on the battery)

Try it with a good hot battery connected?
The codes only tell you exactly what their definitions spell out.
Those codes do NOT tell you the battery is bad or good.

FWIW I see those type of voltage codes all the time, I ignore and erase them unless they are related to a specific complaint or current problem.

dsm482

ORIGINAL ID"S

NEW ID's location moved
let me elaborate better ..

Here is the original sensor ID's..
the second pic are after I took it to Dunn tire , minding I didn't change or rotate tires.. just added sensors..
Originally i thought I solved the issue, all sensors are working, but stupid idiot light is on..


Why Are ID's numbers associated with different ID's now on different spots.?

I have no codes, yet the stupid light is blinking , I drove it .. more than 28 mph.. 2 hours with no difference today, at least 50 miles..

I also have a professional Scanner , which only allows me to add ID's thru OBD.. and check condition.. no codes. for TPMS..all are live,
reading..Except I got a stupid light?


I went to Dunn TIRE because I thought I am doing somethin wrong.. but hell now I still have the same issue and thats the ID's..

Touch confused with this HOnda TPMS system.. Why am I having so much trouble?

ezone

On my scanner the ID#s are automatically entered in the order the sensors were activated during the learn process. They stay in that memorized order regardless of where the tires are moved to on the car during routine services.


The basic process using dealer level equipment (HDS scanner and ATEQ TPMS tool):
HDS/IHDS scanner is connected to OBD2 port the usual way.
Key on, link scanner to car with VIN and year-make-model data and all that stuff.
Go into the correct area to set up the TPMS system control unit for sensor ID learning. Follow instructions on screen for setup.
Upon prompt by the scanner, we have to use the hand held unit (ATEQ) to electronically activate each pressure sensor in each wheel, this process causes each sensor to "wake up" and transmit its ID# and various data to the TPMS control unit.
After all 4 wheels/sensors are finished, the warning lights on the dash are left flashing and the scanner displays prompts for driving the car as the final step to register the ID#s in the control unit.
At this point I can't tell you if there is some limit as to how long it might allow that test drive to be completed.
I start the engine, remove the scanner equipment from the car, wash my hands and immediately drive the car. Lights extinguish after going above (whatever speed) usually long before I reach the next parking lot driveway.

(our handheld TPMS tool is ATEQ brand VT55--- the shop purchased a software version for all cars and the extra hardware package for programming other car lines, but there are many others available too)

Your aftermarket scanner program may want some completely different process for all I know.
I don't want to suffer trying to figure out incompatible software and hardware. OE/OEM tools and parts work very nicely together LOL
No need to put your local retailer on blast, it's unlikely many people reading this are in your area.
Did the tire store also attempt to program it? Unsuccessful?

Are the sensors you purchased actually correct for the car you have? (several different sensors are used throughout the various Honda and Acura car models, they are not all electronically interchangeable), You have 2 original and 2 replacements, are they all on the same frequency and all that?
Does your handheld sensor reader/activator read all 4 sensors and show the 4 ID#s to verify correct matches to what your scanner program displays?
ASSuming the sensors are actually correct and compatible with the car......Maybe you will need a dealer visit. IDK.

dsm482

I programmed first with my diagnostic tool .. It was lit the light never comes off.. no faults.. sensors working and matching the ID ...
so maybe my super dupper scanner I thought , so I decided to take it to tire shop to program them.

Then I took it to Dunn Tire, they programed it, still light on..

Battery status is ok, all 4 sensors are working.. All are read thru OBD ports as functioning..

The 2 replacements were suppose to be OEM the same company that makes them for Honda , makes them for TRW..
Same frequency and all, even look the same.

I hate to go to stealership, to find out what's the cause.. ..

I am missing something, car says is all right , but my light is flashing .. hmm.. I will get to the bottom of it Either the sensor are incompatible or there is a reason?

ezone

Sometimes the cheapest people waste the most money....

dsm482

not true ,, calling me cheap?)

dsm482

OK for us "cheap guys" that dont run to stelearships to steal your hard earn cash..
I figured it out.. you dont need a dealer..
After you put ID numbers in, you have to turn the key to ON position and bleed the tires to 8 PSI and reinflate them to 32 PSI or whatever spec you use..
The tpms module needs to see this change of pressure in order to turn it off.

IF you dont have a tool to put ID's Dunn tire will do them for free for you..
Same company that makes sensors for HONDA, makes them for TRW.. only difference is the ID is not printed on the back of the sensor. When you buy you have to ask for it..
otherwise they look the same and do the same..

You could also change the battery on your original TPMS sensor.. I bought batteries for $4.99 cents thru batteryusa.com.
batteries have to have pins welded when you buy from them. tell them they will put them for you.. you bassiclly open the sensor, unsoother the battery, soother the new one in..
use clear gel to repack it and superglue to to glue the cover on... this also works.

So now I got many spares..

ezone

It looks like this step is the manual equivalent of the step where I would be activating the sensors electronically using the handheld tool.
So again the question: Why couldn't the tire store get the sensors programmed?


Cash has value, but time does too. This should have been a very quick operation IMO