maverickfhs

So my 06 Civic Coupe with AT is in need of brakes, as well as rotors for the front.

Rear pads are almost getting there too, not sure about the rotors so still debating rear rotors.

Thinking and planning ahead, was hoping to use Honda OEM pads for front and rear, since they are cheap and durable but not sure about rotors, since there are a million options out there!!!

Have few options:

1- Buy from amazon Bosch Rotors(F/R) and pads(BC465A and BP537) ~$160

2- Buy this kit from Rock Auto ~$122 : http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....432623&jsn=249

3-Buy Centric Rotors and metallic Pads, C-TEK from Rock Auto. ~$80

4-Or just buy everything package as Honda OEM. ~$200

Anyone has any feedback or advice for above options? I drive like a grandpa and it's for regular driving, since I don't commute on it

Thanks for any input and help, open to any other better/cheaper suggestions.

REXAZZ2

stock Honda rotors are really good IMO
I would probably stick with all Honda especially if you plan on keeping the car

maverickfhs

Any thoughts for rear rotors, should they be replaced around 200K? No idea when they got replaced last time!

ezone

There are minimum thickness specs for all brake rotors.
I only replace if they are too thin to be resurfaced.

maverickfhs

Thanks EZ, I do have a a caliper to measure thickness and all, but no means to resurface and hence asking if I should just slap new pads on it or replace rotors too?

Front ones I know are toasted, because when I brake, steering wheel shakes and also can see they are warped by sliding my fingers over it.

Thanks for your help, as usual

ezone

If the rears aren't causing vibration and the are still above minimum spec, leave them alone?


To check for vibration, take it up to 60-70 MPH and start pulling the handbrake up briefly (keep release button pushed), if rotors are warped it should become pretty obvious.

maverickfhs

By any chance do you know thickness for rear rotors? I never knew about checking warped rears through handbrake, that's helpful and neat!

So if rear rotors are warped, pulling rear hand brake will make car vibrate, correct?

Thanks for the help.

ezone

Lemme check......8mm (.315") is minimum
New is around 9mm


Yes but the check only works on systems that have the park brake mechanism incorporated into the caliper.

If the park brake design is a small drum brake inside the hat (hub) of the rotor, this check doesn't work.....and you can tear stuff up LOL

maverickfhs

Thanks EZ, as always. Now you are making me scared. Lol

I'll just check the thickness at various points using vernier caliper. If it's 8mm or more, will just reuse and won't test using rear brake technique.

Any advice/thoughts from above options I listed in post #1?

ezone

Sally !

The only reason I said it can tear stuff up is the drum type park brake is almost never applied while moving and typical rust buildup can tear up the lining on the shoes if you are moving when applying that brake.


On your car the park brake is using the normal service brake, it is exactly the same as pushing the brake pedal.



I'm staying out of that.

maverickfhs

Makes sense and I appreciate your advice and input. Will use caliper to measure and parking brake to test if rotors are warped.

Thanks again.

maverickfhs

Both rear rotors are definitely 8mm or a tiny bit higher than it but do have rust on the circumference, nothing chipping or missing.

I have no means to machine them, should I leave them alone and just slap new pads? Still have to do the vibration test!

ezone

If they don't cause vibration and they aren't horribly grooved/scored, I'd have no problem doing a pad slap on it.

maverickfhs

Next test is vibration, but just using my fingers I don't see any grooves or scoring.

Will do exactly as you described : To check for vibration, take it up to 60-70 MPH and start pulling the handbrake up briefly (keep release button pushed), if rotors are warped it should become pretty obvious.

If it passes vibration test, will just bleed em and put new pads on it. Thanks again EZ

maverickfhs

Thanks EZ, used your technique of rear rotors, vibration wasn't there and on front ones it's very visible and rotors are showing it too.

Going to keep rear rotors for now and will just swap pads.

Will keep you posted, thanks again.

maverickfhs

As always, thanks EZ. Took your advice, measured thickness for rear rotors, they were close to ~10mm, slapped new ceramic pads, cleaned all rust thoroughly, lubed pins and life is good.

It has been brutally cold, already have front rotors and brake pads, going to wait a bit till weather gets better and then will replace those too. So far, things are well

Thanks again.

P.S: Have not touched front rotors, but how important are those damn rotor screws? many people say don't use it, if they need to be drilled - stating they have been used during assembly and not necessarily needed.

ezone

50/50 IMO. Yes they are for assembly, if you've ever tried to stick pads and caliper on the bracket with a rotor leaning crooked you'll know it's not the easiest way to do it.
Another plus: when a wheel is removed, loose chunks of rust can't get stuck between the hub and rotor if they are screwed together.

If the screws come out without a lot of hassle or damage, I usually put them back in.

OTOH if I had to beat them with a hammer and punch to get them to turn, that kinda ruins the cross and I won't reuse those.

I've seen some replacement hubs that don't even have holes for the screws.

Some cars are made with rotors that flop free when you take the wheels off. Nobody complains about those LOL

maverickfhs

Fair enough and makes sense. For now, I plan to reuse by utilizing anti-seize, worst case will drill them out and leave out forever

ezone

Make sure you impact the screws in just a little bit.... If you only tighten them with a screwdriver by hand they tend to back out by themselves

maverickfhs

I plan to smack the H*** out of them during removal, if I'll be lucky in terms of removal then will follow your advice and use some impact for tightening it too, thanks again

REXAZZ2

Usually I take the screws out every seasonal tire change and lube up with anti seize compound
makes life good lol