NatandAndy1031

Hi! I have a 2006 honda civic hybrid with about 130,000 miles on it. I had a friend put a wheel bearing on for me yesterday. Everything sounds great but now my abs and break system lights are on. Everything sounded normal until I got into a parking lot and braked at a low speed. I could hear kind of a "kuhthunk" noise every time the tire went around. Any thoughts on what went wrong? He said he didn't even touch my brakes... I'm going to have him look at it but I wondered if anyone's had a similar problem or advice? Thanks!

ezone

Which light are you calling the break(sic) system light?


The lights came on about 10 feet after you started moving?

And the code is...?

Which bearing got replaced, front or rear?

First guess: Your friend installed the front bearing backwards.


No idea. You'll have to find that one.

NatandAndy1031

There is a light that says ABS and a light above it that literally says "brake system"

The abs light came on immediately when starting the car. The "brake system" light came on later when we hit a significant speed.

No idea how to find the code.

The back right wheel bearing was replaced.

And thank you for responding!

ezone

Ah ok.

If a rear bearing was replaced, that's pretty straightforward...unless the sensor was inadvertently hit and damaged, which doesn't seem likely if the person was careful.
And that wouldn't turn on the brake system light either, just the ABS/TCS/VSA lights (if equipped).

I can't think of anything *I* would do when replacing a rear bearing that would cause the warning lights....
But I can't speak for anyone elses' work either. I have no idea what someone else might do.



Various thoughts:

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The amber "brake system" light has to do with the 'advanced hydraulic booster' system (hybrid power brake booster).

Could be blown fuse, etc.,
It could have a real problem, or it could need something as simple as reinitialized/relearn with the HDS scanner.


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The ABS light can come on if the 12v battery voltage is low or a power source is missing (blown fuse?), same goes for the brake system warning light.
These usually go out as soon as the issue is corrected though, but leave codes stored in memory.

However, I have seen these cars go absolutely nuts with multiple warning lights and strange codes if someone ran the 12v battery down and then tried to jump start the car improperly.
A battery reset can resolve some of these cases (like a system reboot)....
Make sure you have your radio code handy!

Turn the ignition OFF and remove the key, put it in your pocket, shut all doors.
Disconnect both battery cables from the 12v battery,
connect both the cable ends together for 10 minutes,
then reconnect the battery--- MAKE SURE THE KEY IS OFF when you do this.

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Is there anything else in the car (electrical) that isn't working? Power mirrors work?


-------
The average user does not have a way to extract codes from those systems, nor perform an initialization procedure. The service manual I have does not tell any manual method of retrieving codes.
Dealer visit for that, if needed.

------

So.....About all I can tell you to try is:

Try the battery reset procedure above.

Check brake fluid level---special procedure! See your owners manual (page 196) because the reservoir you can see first is sometimes empty and that's ok.

Check fuse #4 in the dash fuse box. Hell, check all the fuses in both fuse boxes.

Next step would probably be going to a dealer,
checking for fault codes and data
search info bulletins
Then on to troubleshooting charts and procedures.

'sall I got. HTH

NatandAndy1031

Thank your for the thoughts!! We took it to a mechanic we trust and it turns out the brakes were damaged when the wheel bearing was changed and the brake line was leaking I believe he said?? But he got it all fixed for us so all the lights are off and all is well. The "Kuthunk" was that the wheel bearing we had put on was defective but the mechanic replaced that as well.. Here's the new downside.... As we drove it to the mechanic The IMA battery light came on. Everything was fine before we got our bearing changed and then all this happened at once. The mechanic couldn't run the code for the IMA so we will have to take it to a dealership. Has anyone dealt with a IMA battery problem? I may have to post in a new category.

ezone

Wow. 3 strikes on a single job?

Stick with the second mechanic.

I deal with them regularly.
I don't deal with the money part of the job though.

The first 'friend' that butchered the wheel bearing job so badly couldn't possibly have had anything to do with the IMA system.....unless I'm underestimating the power of

jbutterworth

Hello All,

I came across this thread after having a similar issue and wanted to see if there was any more advice you could share. Thanks for posting what you have so far, it has been very helpful. This is my first Honda so its all a bit new to me.

2007 Civic Hybrid. Drum brakes on the rear. Replaced both rear wheel bearings. That was the easy part.

I don't believe I damaged the ABS wheel sensors while changing the bearings. Same for the brake lines.

While test driving the car afterward the ABS and Brake System lights came on. ABS system is not working. Checked the brake fluid. It was a bit low. Topped it off. Another test drive. Brake System light went off. ABS light still on.

TO THE INTERNET! After reading this and other threads I did a computer reset. ABS light was still on afterward. Test drive. After locking up the brakes and skidding a few times the ABS light went off and started to operate normally.

An hour later driving to dinner the ABS light comes back on about a mile into the trip. Brake System light soon to follow. Both have been on since. The Brake System light does come and go. ABS system is not working. Fluid levels are fine. No leaking fluid that I can see.

I'm a bit confused that the ABS system was working for a period and its now back out of commission. Any ideas on what would cause it to come and go?

Thoughts?

Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks.

mikey1

did you bleed the system properly after changing your brake lines?

jbutterworth

Thanks for the reply Mikey1.

I didn't open the brake system except to add more fluid at the reservoir. I see in my post how that could be confusing.

I only replaced the rear bearings. I didn't do anything with the brakes expect to remove the drum to get at the hub. Both drums pulled off by hand. No banging or using tapped holes required.

That being said would bleeding them somehow help the ABS system?

ezone

It is extremely easy to damage those tiny little ABS sensors, I usually pull them out of the rear knuckle prior to removing the hub/bearing assembly.
If you remove each rear sensor, I suspect you may find at least one of them is cracked or otherwise damaged.


Of course, actually checking the ABS system fault codes should help narrow down the possibilities, the problem might have nothing at all to do with the wheel speed sensors.
Flying blind sucks sometimes.

ezone

Another possibility is damage to the magnetic encoder ring embedded in the bearing. Holding a magnet to it can cause permanent damage.

OEM bearings, or aftermarket?

jbutterworth

Thanks everyone.

ezone: aftermarket bearings. After reading some now I realize they have a bad rep for making happy with the ABS system.

I'll take it back apart this weekend and see if there is any visible damage.

I did stop by the parts store and get the code pulled.

Its ABS 24 Pulser RL. (Rear Left)

What specifically is the pulser? I gather that that isn't the same as the encoder ring. From a brake system diagram I found for a similar model it seems it may be the sprocket like portion that the ABS system engages to modulate brake force. I can't imagine the sprocket is bad but I'll inspect it this weekend too.

Could this code come from a bad wheel speed sensor?

Any other advice is very much appreciated.

ezone

Code 24-11: Left-rear magnetic encoder (wheel bearing) malfunction (pulse missing)


The short version of this is either you got something metallic stuck to the encoder ring that is interrupting the magnetic field to generate the "pulse" signal, or the encoder ring in the new wheel bearing is junk.

Handy GIS for the magnetic encoder ring:



HTH

jbutterworth

Thanks ezone.

I'll pull the bearing back out and if it seems like there is no obstruction in there I'll have to get back on the phone to rockauto for replacement if there isn't something apparent.

I can put one of the old bearings back in. It wasn't bad but I wanted to replace both at the same time.

Thanks again.

ezone

We've got the coolest tool for inspecting the magnetic ring. If I remember later I'll try to get a pic of it.

It works a very much like this

Hondakev2006

Super old thread, but I have a 2006 civic si (coupe) and I’m having this issue with my “ABS” and “brake” light being on I did the battery reset method like you said on here but the lights are still on… what do you suggest I should do next? Could it be the module ?

BrotatoChip

Pull ABS fault codes with an appropriate scanner. Or parts stores may be able to do it for free.