2012 Honda Civic Hybrid 1.5L Automatic - Crank No Start
11-09-2018
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2012 Honda Civic Hybrid 1.5L Automatic - Crank No Start
Hello everyone,
I have a 2012 Honda Civic Hybrid 1.5L Automatic.
Just recently, my car is not starting at all.
It cranks but it won't start. I've checked all the fuses under the hood and everything seems ok.
I plugged in an OBD-II scan tool and I got these codes - P0DA8 and U1204.
I looked up these two codes online and I couldn't really find anything.
The battery on the car was dead and I had it jumped to charge it up to 14V.
When the car is on the ON position, I do hear the fuel pump priming with the whining noise.
On my IMID, I have VSA, Check Brake System, Check TPMS, Check Hill Start, and Power Steering.
Though, I think these are unrelated because I had Check VSA/Hill/PowerSteering before.
The next best thing I could do is try to replace all spark plugs (there are 8 of them and expensive).
As far as air goes, the air filter was dirty so I just removed it temporarily.
I also want to mention that the car would barely start and then stall immediately after.
Now, it only just cranks and doesn't start at all.
Any suggestions as to what's wrong with the car or how to diagnose it further?
Thank you!
I have a 2012 Honda Civic Hybrid 1.5L Automatic.
Just recently, my car is not starting at all.
It cranks but it won't start. I've checked all the fuses under the hood and everything seems ok.
I plugged in an OBD-II scan tool and I got these codes - P0DA8 and U1204.
I looked up these two codes online and I couldn't really find anything.
The battery on the car was dead and I had it jumped to charge it up to 14V.
When the car is on the ON position, I do hear the fuel pump priming with the whining noise.
On my IMID, I have VSA, Check Brake System, Check TPMS, Check Hill Start, and Power Steering.
Though, I think these are unrelated because I had Check VSA/Hill/PowerSteering before.
The next best thing I could do is try to replace all spark plugs (there are 8 of them and expensive).
As far as air goes, the air filter was dirty so I just removed it temporarily.
I also want to mention that the car would barely start and then stall immediately after.
Now, it only just cranks and doesn't start at all.
Any suggestions as to what's wrong with the car or how to diagnose it further?
Thank you!
11-10-2018
#2
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Hey everyone, thanks for the replies.
I checked the spark plugs and they were ALL toast. There are 8 of them on this car. The front 4 are easy to get to with a 6" extension. The rear 4 are harder. You barely have room to work with so here's what you'll need to do. You'll need to drop your 5/8 socket into the plug hole and then attach a 3" extension on top followed by a universal joint for an extra inch. The clearance is very minimal. You can then attach your 3/8 drive ratchet and crack all the plugs loose. As far as replacing it, it's the same steps in reverse. You'll need GOOD strong connections and not loose socket attachments. I ran into an issue where I couldn't remove the 5/8 spark plug socket back out because the 3" extension would let it go (the spark plug socket was sticking onto the plug so when you pull out it wouldn't). I ended up having a 5/8 spark plug socket that doesn't quite grip onto the spark plugs so after I tightened them it would easily come right back out.
I started the car and drove it and all the IMID warnings and dash lights went away.
Also did an idle relearn by resetting the ECM. Just search how to do this online.
Hope this helps somebody! Check AIR FUEL SPARK COMPRESSION on a crank no start!
I checked the spark plugs and they were ALL toast. There are 8 of them on this car. The front 4 are easy to get to with a 6" extension. The rear 4 are harder. You barely have room to work with so here's what you'll need to do. You'll need to drop your 5/8 socket into the plug hole and then attach a 3" extension on top followed by a universal joint for an extra inch. The clearance is very minimal. You can then attach your 3/8 drive ratchet and crack all the plugs loose. As far as replacing it, it's the same steps in reverse. You'll need GOOD strong connections and not loose socket attachments. I ran into an issue where I couldn't remove the 5/8 spark plug socket back out because the 3" extension would let it go (the spark plug socket was sticking onto the plug so when you pull out it wouldn't). I ended up having a 5/8 spark plug socket that doesn't quite grip onto the spark plugs so after I tightened them it would easily come right back out.
I started the car and drove it and all the IMID warnings and dash lights went away.
Also did an idle relearn by resetting the ECM. Just search how to do this online.
Hope this helps somebody! Check AIR FUEL SPARK COMPRESSION on a crank no start!
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