Meanie

I received the "check airbag system" warning. When it came on, I stopped at my local tech shop and they grabbed the code 11-10 Drivers First Inflator open. I'm guessing this may be the steering wheel connection but not 100% certain.

Anyone with this problem in the past and the solution(s)?

2014 Civic Coupe EX

Thank you

ezone

2014..... Have you checked ALL steering wheel mounted controls for radio/cruise/phone/horn, etc. and do they all still work correctly?


My first guess might be a failing circuit inside the clockspring (Honda calls it 'cable reel'), and with a wiring diagram and careful use of an ohm meter one could do some continuity checks to confirm that guess for sure before tossing parts at it.

You would have to take out the drivers airbag to begin checking, and at that moment you can make sure the connectors for the two airbag inflators were actually completely plugged into the airbag

Meanie

All steering wheel controls are functioning properly. I ALWAYS use the controls for radio and smartphone music. I always use cruise when on the hwy and just used it the other day. The horn works well

Also, just to clarify, the warning doesn't always come on. It's always off when I start the car but may come on after driving for awhile. But when it's on, it stays on until I shut the cat off again.

Will a manual have the wiring diagram? Electronics isn't my strong suit, thus, what will I need to search? I've seen some videos on airbag removal and they disconnect the battery prior to doing so. Is that to eliminate the risk of it going off? I hate disconnecting my battery since I have to reset stations, remote start, etc.

ezone

If you could find a manual, it may or may not have wiring diagrams included.

Hondas factory service info is all online now, there are no paper manuals.

Honda Service Express (LINK)


If you have access to this (for a small fee), then you will also have the actual troubleshooting procedures available for your fault code and should follow those instructions



I can't comment on other possible printed (paper) information resources, but there are other sources for electronic service information such as Alldata and Mitchell On Demand, which might be available at your local library.

Yes......but you should read and follow the manufacturers' published service information, procedures, and warnings. (there is a length of time to wait)

If you choose to disregard published warnings and procedures, you assume all risk and liability. (you assume all risk and liability by doing the work yourself anyway)

Now that that has been said......I do a lot of this sort of work without disconnecting the battery, but I am very aware of what I'm working with and know the risks involved.

I might first disconnect and reconnect each individual connection for the problem component one by one, and after each connection is done, immediately recheck (scanner check) if the code returns....If a code stays gone after a disconnect and reconnect, then it's pretty safe to assume the issue was contained within the connector you just touched, and this is not an uncommon occurrence.
i.e. remove airbag, unplug and replug one of its firing connectors, recheck for code.
Unplug and replug the other firing connector, recheck for code.
Unplug and replug the yellow 4 wire harness connector on the clockspring, recheck code.
Remove column covers to access the yellow 4 wire harness connector on the forward side of the clockspring, recheck code

Continuity checks----leave that last yellow connector disconnected because it should have a shorting bar that engages when disconnected (I would have to confirm this before actual testing in the car)...so then if it does then you can do checks with meter in each of the pairs in the yellow 4 wire connector in the steering wheel area. The pair of yellows should read as about zero ohms, the pair of red wires should read as about zero ohms.

Meanie

Thank you ezone. I do believe it may be best to leave it to the professionals, though not because I fear the attempt, but mainly due to the lack of the scanner to check for code after each disconnect and reconnect. I have a basic OBDll scanner, but I assume I need the more sophisticated OBD2 scanner. I originally tried my OBDll but it didn’t pick up the code when the warning came on. When I saw the mechanics scanner, I assumed that’s what I need and after seeing the cost, I’m not ready to purchase one for occasional tasks.

ezone

Airbag codes can be read manually, and erased manually on the older cars.

Many faults that turn on the warning light will also turn off the light when the problem is gone, but can leave the code in memory for a period of time.