joenobodyyet

Hello, I recently purchased an automatic transmission 2008 Honda Civic LX with 56,000 miles and I am compiling a list of all preventative maintenance items that I should address to keep my car running like a top. My 97 Civic LX just died, so I would like to maintain it as well as I can.

I like to do things myself to save money, but I am not super knowledgeable about cars. I don't have a garage or all of the proper tools, but I learned a lot while working on my 97 LX. I am prepared to keep up with this car religiously.

Here are some of the things I've thought of, but if you could answer my questions, and also add to the list of things I should keep up with, I would greatly appreciate it!



-How often should I change the oil? I've been wondering about changing it more often than recommended. I assume I should continue using synthetic oil. Are there better brands for synthetic oil? How about brand and type of oil filter?

-My power windows in my 97 had some troubles. Should I silicone spray my windows' side trims to help them slide better, and help the motor switches last longer?

-What are thoughts on fuel additives? Oil treatment additives? Engine treatments? Injector cleaner? Which are the best brands/types? Should I even use them? How often? I've seen products such as SeaFoam, Gumout, Lucas, Chemtool, STP, and other brands.

-Should I change the power steering fluid? What brand replacement fluid should I use? How often? Is this something I can do myself? I would be checking YouTube, and I also have a buddy with a garage who can help.

-Should I change the brake fluid? How often? Just DOT 3? I assume there's a video on youtube with instructions.

-Should I change the automatic transmission fluid? How often? I've read that I shouldn't "flush". Could someone explain the difference between "flush" and "drain and refill", and why I should or should not? The Owner's Manual says I should use Honda ATF-Z1 fluid

-Should I change the coolant/antifreeze? How often? Manual says to use Type 2.

-The seller told me I need a new battery. I was pricing them and found CA: 512, CCA: 410, RC: 70m for $70 w/ 2 year warranty OR CA: 625, CCA: 500, RC: 85m for $80 w/ 3 yr warranty (I use coupon codes at Advance Auto Parts online). Is the $80 overkill? Thoughts on car battery selection?

-How often should I change the air filter? Are there preferred types/brands? I've heard of one that you reuse and add oil, but I figure I don't mind spending $10-15 periodically for a new normal dry filter. I used to buy FRAM filters from Wal-Mart.

-How often should I change the cabin air filter?

-I read that changing the fuel filter is unnecessary, especially because I think it's located in the fuel tank of my 2008 Civic LX.

-How often should I clean the mass air flow sensor? I got CRC brand spray.

-How often should I clean the throttle body? I purchased CRC brand spray.

-How often should I rotate the tires?

-I used to purchase cheap tires, but should I be looking for anything particular when buying new tires for this 2008?

-I check the tire pressure pretty often, especially with free air and digital gauge at some gas stations

-I assume I just change tires when the tread is low?

-How often should I get a wheel alignment?

-Should I spray the undercarriage during the winter with water to remove salt?

-Do I need to change the PCV valve?

-Change spark plugs and wires? How often?

-Check and change hoses. How often?

-Change brake pads and rotors. How often? I'm pretty sure I have drum brakes in the rear. Are those difficult to change?

-Check belts

-Opinions on when to fill gas tank? Should I not let it get less than 1/4?

-I read that there is NO idle air control valve in a 2008, so that won't need cleaning.

-I believe this has a timing chain, not a belt. Is there any upkeep on a timing chain?


If anyone can think of anything I forgot, or provide more insight on maintaining my vehicle, I appreciate it. Thanks!

ezone

Did you get an owners manual? Some of the answers are in it.

ezone

You'll find as many opinions about this as there are azzholes.

The owners manual will tell you to make your oil change appointment when the wrench light comes on and the minder says 15%.
(You can follow that, or ignore it if you wish.)


That could be anywhere from 3000 MILES to 12000 MILES depending on your driving conditions. (I'm using MILES throughout this post, you can convert that to KM if you need to)

The oil cap says 5w20 on it.
0w20 is also acceptable according to Honda. That will help in the dead of winter too.

We (our shop) use a high quality Honda spec'd semi-synthetic 5w20 oil. No problems.
All of our 0w20 oil is full synthetic.


DO CHECK OIL LEVEL REGULARLY, top off when necessary.

You can if you wish.

Hell no, hell no, hell no, hell no. Your owners manual will tell you no also.

Read every part of the site in this link:
toptiergas.com



1 If you wish. It's never mentioned in the owners manual.
2 HONDA PS FLUID ONLY
3 whenever you want, we really see very few problems IMO. Every 100k miles?
4 Yes. Turkey baster method is simple. You can get more involved if you really want to.

DOT3.
Owners manual will tell you every 3 years regardless of mileage.

1 ABSOLUTELY.
2 More often than required.....because we know what these cars do when this service is neglected!
At the shop we recommend every 30k miles, no matter what the maintenance minder display suggests.
3 Drain and fill, simple.
Hondas official version of a flush is multiple drain-and-fills in a row. It's really only needed when fluid is contaminated or severely neglected.
JizzyLube type flush machines and chemicals are strongly discouraged
4 The current official Honda ATF fluid is called DW-1.
Z-1 has been obsolete since about 2011.
10 years/100k or thereabout, then every 5/50 thereafter. Again, see your owners manual...and there may be a sticker in the engine compartment or on the hood about it too.
Again, simple drain and fill.
Again IMO the best fluid is Hondas official Type 2 coolant. (Since that became the factory fill coolant more than a decade ago, water pump problems just about dropped off the radar screen completely.)

Whatever works. You could probably use a lawn tractor battery if you really had to.

Easy enough to check whenever you feel like it. The maintenance minder will ask for one about every 25k or so, but check it first. Same for the cabin filter.

If you drive dirt roads all day your filters will be needed long before 25k. Right?
If you drive nothing but highway they might last a lot longer than 25k. Right?


The minder system has no way to actually monitor anything it tells you about. It's up to you to check condition and decide for yourself if it needs to be done.

I like Hondas engine air filters for a few reasons. I don't like the cheapies there.
Cabin filter: aftermarket has some options like charcoal treated.....but I have no problem with Hondas either.



Right.
Never. (well...almost never, it's certainly not a problem area like on some other brands of cars. About the only time I see problems is when someone tries to check the air filter with the engine running and it sucks in a bug or something.)

The MAF sensor is one reason I would not use an oilable air filter.
Another reason is they only filter out the big rocks.
NEVER (unless directed to this procedure in a Honda troubleshooting guide). You've got throttle-by-wire. Don't F with it, you can create far more problems than you can deal with. Maint minder item #1. Or every 5-6k, or every oil change. Whatever, but make it regularly. Tread depth measurements can be taken into account to decide if it's time to actually do it, and how to do it.

Cheap is cheap for a reason.
These cars can chop the tires on the rear if ignored too long. Tread design is a factor in tread chop. So is alignment.

Keep doing that.
What else are you gonna do with them? You could make tire swings I guess.
......If you hit a big pothole and notice your steering wheel no longer is level and straight while driving in a straight line, that's the first clue it's time for one.

Align along with a set of new tires.
Otherwise, tire wear should be paid attention to to judge alignment.

At the shop we sometimes suggest align every spring after snow and pothole season is over, but that's overkill IMO.
Pay attention for changes mentioned above and you'll be ok.

What do you think?
IMO no, my dealer doesn't keep that in stock because we don't have problems with it. It's not a cheap plastic one that's simple.
Have you opened the hood yet? NO WIRES.
Plugs are 100k miles. Also will come up as a number on the maintenance minder. They might outlast the car. EPDM rubber is fantastic stuff. Check regularly though.
I sometimes see hose clamps rot away from rust before hoses go bad here LOL

Pads when they wear out. Inspect at every tire rotation.

Rotors could last the life of the car, or could be trash after riding the brakes down one mountain. Sup to you and your driving habits, and wear. Evaluate at the time of a brake job.
You probably won't ever need to. Those may outlast the car.
Generally I expect the belt to last 10/100 or longer. Again, EPDM rubber is fantastic stuff.
The belts all turn brown, that alone is not a cause for concern.
IMO I still look for cracks in the teeth before suggesting a belt replacement.
Are you a gambler? Actually it doesn't matter IMO. The pump is in a "bucket" that keeps it submerged and cool at all times.

These are not Chevrolets fuel pumps.
Pump failures are so rare I can count on one hand all of the truly bad pumps I've replaced on Hondas in the last 14 years and have several fingers left over.

Correct. You've got throttle-by-wire. There is no IAC.

Use good oil. I've seen zero problems with the chain in this particular engine as long as decent oil is used and changed on time.

joenobodyyet

Wow! Thanks for the extensive reply! I did get the owner's manual, and I saw some specifications in there.

-Just checking, spraying the salt off in the winter won't leave my undercarriage susceptible to freezing and breaking right? Just nervous about water/ice on the metal muffler/exhaust.

-Is there a way to keep the muffler from rusting? I had an issue with my 1997 LX muffler rusting. The weep hole kept rusting closed, causing the muffler to fill up with water. I'm assuming this won't be an issue on a 2008 civic, which has a splash shield?

-This is my first automatic transmission vehicle. Should I use the parking brake when parking? I've heard its better to use the brake than the just having the transmission in park. I always used it with manual transmission.

Thanks again!

ezone

Freezing yes. Of course. Duh.
Breaking? Doubt it. Everything under there is exposed to the crap on the road already and stupid temperatures, I doubt you'll hurt it.

Don't drive the car at all.
Or if you do drive it, don't ever shut it off.

Actually they do seem to last a long time here (I'm in the salt/rust belt) it's still rare for me to see a bad one but others do report they rot from time to time.
Just 20 years ago mufflers only seemed to last 3 years LOL


Read your manual. At work I never use it as a rule simply because if one gets stuck I'd be blamed for it. I might check it/use it in the shop but I never park a car in the shops parking lot and leave the handbrake on.
Also...if the car sits for any length of time with the brake on, you could find the brake linings stuck due to rust.

Personally I do not use it except when parked on a significant slope or when parked on a sheet of ice....and even then I have to remember that it is possible the brake can freeze and be stuck on if the temps are stupid cold. (has not happened to me in this car, but used to happen on a very different much older car when I was young)

I DO use my parking brake in my driveway while I roll out just to keep the DRLs from turning on until I'm out in the street (ONE CLICK/no drag).